1kzte - any oils to specifically avoid?

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, new here, first post.

1996 Land Cruiser Prado, 1KZTE. 160k kms / almost 100k miles, doesn't use any oil between changes, minimal blowby. Ambient temps 15F-105F. Used for highway commuting, no towing or hard work.

I'm not too fussed about oil, will be running whatever oil meets specs and beyond that whatever is cheapest. Have run O'Reilly's house brand, Rotella, and ST, and magically the engine hasn't blown up. Next oil change will be to the Delo XSP 5w40 we all stocked up on.

So my question is kinda backwards on this one. Rather than ask which oil I should run, are there any oils I should specifically avoid even if I come across them cheap?

Thanks everyone.

(Yes I know caring about oil is down the list for the 1KZ. The entire cooling system has been serviced, and I might proactively buy a replacement head and gasket set to stick on the shelf just so I already have them when the day they're needed inevitably comes.)

 

[ripcord]

As long as they are certified for diesel and are an appropriate viscosity, choice of oil brand is not going to harm your engine. Keeping it cool and the injectors working correctly are key to keeping those motors running, though I suspect you know all about that.

 

[fantastic]

CK-4 or 5w-40 Euro oil?

 

[OM617YOTA]

CK-4 or 5w-40 Euro oil?

Not sure what you're asking, would you please clarify?

 

[fantastic]

Not sure what you're asking, would you please clarify?

I can surely clarify, But could you kindly post back what your manual states for oil specification? That way we know whether to discuss which oil.

 

[OM617YOTA]

 

[rollins.]

I would definitely avoid API FA-4 / ACEA F01 HDEO's and low ht/hs ACEA passenger-car categories. Just stick to xw-40 oils.

Also, I'd make sure the pump at the station has at least 2% FAME content ...or better yet use some proven lubricity additive in the ULSD.

As for the aftertreatment-friendlier heavy-duty and passenger car diesel oils like ACEA E8 and ACEA Cx while they need to address the same (or similar) wear requirements in their resp. categories (as strict as the OEM ones can be) as their full-SAPS cousins , one could only guess how well they'd perform in direct comparison (especially in engines of older design) .

https://www.acea.auto/files/2024-ACEA-oil-sequences-heavy-duty-engines-December-2024-Rev1.pdf

https://www.infineuminsight.com/en-gb/articles/acea-hd-sequences-released/

 

[SureshR]

Use CK4 or use Euro A3/B4 or C3 and you should be all set. Yeah don't use FA/4 types. And stick to 40 weight oils, 5w 0w 15w whatever should all be perfectly fine at the temperatures you're living in.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Thanks folks.

Oregon has a B5 mandate, no worries about fuel lubricity.

Any particular reason for avoiding thinner oils, if the manual says they're fine? Planned on staying with Xw40, personal flavor preference. Gave some thought to running 5w30 so I could run one oil in all four of our vehicles. Would install an oil pressure gauge first vs. just the idiot light that's there now.

If low SAPS is a problem then Delo XSP may be a poor choice. I know the manufacturer doesn't just remove the old stuff and not replace it with something else that's supposed to be at least as good. Maybe I'll be the guinea pig there, had planned on running two OCIs and getting a used oil analysis at the end of the second OCI.

 

[SureshR]

This is an old fashioned engine but needs a relatively thick oil and one with a good slug of esters in it to protect your seals and gaskets. Tractor supply or other dollar store HDEO will do just fine.

 

[rollins.]

Well not that the low-SAPS oils are problematic, just one needs to tread a bit more carefully there.

While for the most part lubricants are supposed to be backwards-compatible with older equipment I wonder how much better the new oils/specs would be (if) .

Really curious how this formulation would perform against for example another previous spec'd synthetic of the same viscosity...say the ACEA CH-4 or CI-4/+ MB 228.5 syn 5w-40 (still available in ROW ) in an "ancient" IDI light duty TC,direct-acting OHC diesel .

Here two previous versions of 5w-40 Delo :

P

Thread 'Delo 5w40 Syn CJ-4 vs CK-4 VOA'

Dec 6, 2017

I was a bit surprised at what came back, including the total lack of any moly. Will be interesting to see how it does.

Line 1 is the CJ-4 oil (packaged in Aug of 2017), Line 2 is the CK-4 oil (packaged in Oct of 2017)

• PiperOne
• Replies: 14
• Forum: Virgin Oil Analysis - PCMO/HDEO

If they're better...well , how much better?

Same questions concerning the ACEA "Cx" categories- how would they perform in old equipment (say om61x or om60x pre-chamber diesels) ? Why would I opt for them when the "traditional" flavor is still on the shelves-with better bases?

As for -30 grade HDEO oils for mixed fleet there are CK-4/SP dual rated 5w-30 syn oils, like
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...ducts/mobil-delvac-1-advanced-synthetic-5w-30

I don't think it is formally listed as SP by API, it is probably just "fulfilling the demands of..." .

...and there are a number of API CK-4/SN(+) 5w-30 ones too.


If you need to consolidate the stock and the other vehicles in the stable allow it,yes - ACEA A3/B4 full saps xw-30's would be fine in the Toyota (if the rest allow this category) .

Also, HDEO's generally have stricter requirement concerning the ht/hs values (min.3.4cP "after shear" for -30 grades but after a more rigorous lab test...and some manufacturers' specs demand min.3.9cP after-shear for the xw-40 grades,like VDS-4.5/Mack EOS-4.5 and DD 93K214;-218;-222 etc. which is actually higher than 95% of the 0w-;5w-40 passenger-car oils start with fresh) .


If the JASO DH-1 oils 25 years ago had SA around 1.6 -1.7mass% SA with ~10mgKOH TBN... how would the modern ones with the same TBN but half the ash (different type/lesser quant. detergents and AW) perform? Would the ancient engines "appreciate" the new art at all?

These are the reasons I look for full-SAPS,more "traditional" formulations in older equipment first. If they come in syn bases at a reasonable price-even better !

 

[OM617YOTA]

Hi folks, thanks for the input. Especially @rollins. , really in-depth.

If I'm reading this right though, there hasn't been an actual problem noticed yet with the newer oils in older equipment? Not a definite bad result, just not sure yet? Sounds like I'll be the guinea pig.

I'm..........basically just a cheap son-of-a-gun. 2 gallons of oil, 5k km OCI, and $30 oil filters stung a wee bit. Not looking for the best or super dee duper wonder oil, just something that'll keep the engine happy as cheap as possible. Plan is to buy 5w40 for winter use and 15w40 for summer use, or use 5w40 year round if it's cheap enough. Been sticking with stuff that passes Cummins 20086, because I figure if it'll keep their flat tappet engines alive it'll be vast overkill for my engine(which originally spec'd CF or even CD oil). However the blenders mixed their magical 11 herbs and spices to pass 20086 is perfectly fine with me, and I've yet to find a Xw40 HDEO that doesn't pass 20086. I never would have bought XSP without the AAP blowout, lots of perfectly acceptable options for lots less.

I have done a couple Blackstone tests to bump out OCI. Toyota specifies changing the oil filter every other OCI, and I've done a used oil analysis confirming that's just fine. Not sure on combining bumping out OCI and doing a filter every other OCI at the same time, but will test that too.

I was mostly asking about oils to avoid because I know Ultra1 is cheap, but the additive pack looks weak. If there are others out there like Ultra1 I'd like to avoid them, although again, if they work fine then I'm fine with however they got there and they become a valid option.

Thanks again, folks.