I have a 99 grand caravan with the 3.3 engine. For some time it has had spells where it would quit running while driving and or just idling. It was a come and go type thing. The 4th of July the lights and everything quit working that night but it would drive. The next day it was fine. Still would turn off on its own but start back. It took spells where you could hear the relays clicking after it would quit. Wednesday or Thursday of last week it would quit as soon as it started. Didn't want to run. Got it started and in gear and it ran well enough to get it checked buy mechanic for codes. No codes. Ran pretty well until Sunday. Wouldn't do anything. All lights and gauges work. You can feel the relays working but no crank and fuel pump isn't priming. Put in a new ignition switch. Didn't help. Any ideas? Really need this van don't have anything else to drive.
1999 grand caravan with the 3.3 engine randomly stops running
- Thread starter motorguy222
- Start date
If you really need help try to avoid vague click bait titles. Maybe a mod will fix it up.
I'd take a VERY close look at battery cables. Try to push/pull/tug them when symptoms present and see if it changes anything. Using jumper cables try an aux ground from battery to engine somewhere.
I don't actually think this is your problem, but it must be ruled out and is fast and free. Also check resistance from battery (-) to engine or accy brackets ‐- anything unpainted. Ditto for battery (-) to any grounds on the body, like where ground straps terminate
I'd take a VERY close look at battery cables. Try to push/pull/tug them when symptoms present and see if it changes anything. Using jumper cables try an aux ground from battery to engine somewhere.
I don't actually think this is your problem, but it must be ruled out and is fast and free. Also check resistance from battery (-) to engine or accy brackets ‐- anything unpainted. Ditto for battery (-) to any grounds on the body, like where ground straps terminate
Fuel pump on it's way out?
Chrysler's are notorious for bad body grounds so give those a close look. Go over the entire electrical system and look for wires with the green crusties. While a helper is trying to start it, wiggle all the wires in the wiring harness and see if it suddenly starts or something breaks off in your hand. If it does, you've probably narrowed it down a lot. Make sure the engine to body ground strap is present and has good connections at both ends. Sometimes blade fuses will get corrosion on them and just pulling them out and replacing them will help.
I mentioned it in your previous thread, but certain years would develop cracks in the circuit board in the gauge cluster, particularly the trace that carried the current for the starter interrupt for the security system. My niece had a Voyager that would randomly not start and you could smack the dash above the gauge cluster to get it to go. I can't remember if I replaced the cluster or used bit of solder to repair the trace when I fixed it.
I mentioned it in your previous thread, but certain years would develop cracks in the circuit board in the gauge cluster, particularly the trace that carried the current for the starter interrupt for the security system. My niece had a Voyager that would randomly not start and you could smack the dash above the gauge cluster to get it to go. I can't remember if I replaced the cluster or used bit of solder to repair the trace when I fixed it.
Click bait? I have a problem here and am asking for help. I have limited resources because of health issues and you are trying to make it like I am just here for the fun of it. If you don't like what I have posted don't comment BUT don't accuse me when you DO NOT know anything about me.
Guys I appreciate those that are trying to help. I put the title of really needing your help because I do. I don't know why one would have the idea of "click bait". I didn't give any links to something or try to sell something. I just need help. I have limited resources and this makes it hard to do testing on things. I also have health issues that can make it difficult to do things. I was just hoping that someone might have a more concrete idea of what might be causing this. I have switched relays and checked fuses and everything looks ok and or makes no difference. I have banged on the dash. Nothing. I have checked other places on the Internet and it could be this or that but I don't have the finances to pay for this or that without really having a more solid idea of what it is. I have read where people have been told it was the BCM (Body Control Module) and spent a lot of money to change it and it didn't help. As I said. I was just hoping that someone.might have a more solid idea of what might be causing this.
I saw something similar in a vid but will the security system cause it to DIE while running? Or does it just do initial checks at start-up then basically go to sleep?
Don't worry, the mods quickly added the specificity the thread title should have had from the start.
If you're a cop or an EMT responding, there's a reason dispatch will try to get an idea of what's going on. You may approach a potential drowning differently than a knife fight, etc. Now obviously as a first responder you have to be ready for ANYTHING, and their jobs are far more dangerous than diagnosing mechanical problems online. However, the point remains: solid info up front typically produces better results, including the initial problem being stated clearly.
A friend's car died randomly one day, and then started after a couple of minutes. He limped it home, where it died again. Later on it started fine, and he drove it over to my place.
I noticed the clock was not reading the correct time, making me wonder about an intermittent electrical failure.
I tugged at the negative battery cable while the car was idling. No fault found. Then I popped the protective red plastic cover over the positive terminal, and the engine died. Aha!
One of the sub-cables taking off from the positive terminal (not the big cable to the starter) was loose, and was breaking contact whenever the car hit a bad bit of road (not hard to find around here).
@motorguy222, I hope your problem is as straightforward. It does sound like an electrical contact opening up.
I noticed the clock was not reading the correct time, making me wonder about an intermittent electrical failure.
I tugged at the negative battery cable while the car was idling. No fault found. Then I popped the protective red plastic cover over the positive terminal, and the engine died. Aha!
One of the sub-cables taking off from the positive terminal (not the big cable to the starter) was loose, and was breaking contact whenever the car hit a bad bit of road (not hard to find around here).
@motorguy222, I hope your problem is as straightforward. It does sound like an electrical contact opening up.
Haven't checked for spark. Can't. It won't crank. The fuel pump isn't coming on. Everything else works except for no crank and no fuel pump and windshield wipers wont shut off unless your remove the relay or fuse. Interior and exterior lights work. Radio works. Power windows work. I just can't figure out what is wrong. I am not a mechanic but I have done most of my repair work when I could for years and haven't seen this before.
With that reasoning every thread title could be the same or a variation of: Need Help, Have a Problem, Not Working, etc
Specificity in the title will draw in those who may have seen your problem before. And it's more searchable to help others in the future.
This is also the same reason a forum about "repair of automobiles" has sub-forums like ATF, Differential and Brakes, Tires and Wheels, Automotive Electrical, etc. Note BITOG has all those and more.
A hospital is all "medical" but they don't put the pediatricians, trauma center and cardiologists all in the same room. Same concept here: further classification of information ultimately produces better results.
You need a schematic (an electrical wiring diagram). Figure out what the things that should have power, but don't, have in common.
The problem could be as far upstream as the main fuse panel. Have checked the fuses/relays/ fusible links there?
One of the web results I found said the positive cable on these takes the brunt of the corrosion. But they went on to say you'd know because it would be swollen. Based on personal experience with other vehicles I'd disagree as I've seen cables look fine but you cut back the insulation to look behind the curtain and it's green puss city.
Anyway, the point is that you may be onto something. And tugging/pushing (within reason) cables as previously suggested can sometimes cause connection to ebb and flow. It may prove nothing, but it's free and easy to do
Would be interesting to know if the crank signal, fuel pump and wipers all share a circuit (or ground) somewhere!
Has there been erratic operation of body electronics, door locks, lights, windows? I’ve had two of these gen IV vans and I think they are GREAT. However, the body control modules in them would age and become erratic in operation. I didn’t see the engine control module act up in the same manner, but it wouldn’t surprise me.
Agree on the above test to grab and shake wires.
There is a harness that wraps around the front of the engine on the driver side, and it is known to rub and chafe. I armored mine with the side of a soda can. It’s known for rubbing through and shorting out. Might look for signs of that.
Agree on the above test to grab and shake wires.
There is a harness that wraps around the front of the engine on the driver side, and it is known to rub and chafe. I armored mine with the side of a soda can. It’s known for rubbing through and shorting out. Might look for signs of that.
The wipers constantly on is a indication of a bad ground.....Electricity will always search for a ground & will find one through light bulbs & motors.
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