1998 Honda Accord 4 cyl

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No luck needed.
A very good oil I'm using in two cars at the moment.
I have a UOA using PP on the older Accord coming, 6K on the oil, 197K on the car.
I'll post it here, of course.
 
Pennzoil Plat!, No Issue!, I put mobil 1 in the 20+ year old GM... NO leaks. too bad it burns. check it every so often, JUST incase you have to add.. Its a great oil, and will do one year, 6000 miles with ease.... even if you have a busy year and go to 7K, still should be fully protected.
 
I converted a 2000 Accord 4-cyl to Syn-Power after 70K of dealer-provided dino. It used a half quart in the first 3K, then didn't burn a drop ever again until we traded it at 136K.

No drips, no leaks ever.
 
I have this engine in the same model year, so I feel compelled to reply. Accords had soft rings those model years, and it's easier to stick them than with most cars, and if that happens, it's very difficult to clean them out short of doing a rebuild. Pick an oil that will discourage carbon build-up between the rings. I've been burning oil since 2004, I believe it's because the oil ran almost dry once. I just got new seals and a new valve cover gasket, and it still burns on startup. I'm currently using Mobil 1 5W30, and driving aggressively on the way home in hopes that the clean oil will dislodge something that could be between the rings due to past use of oil additives. M1 is one of the thinner synthetics and tends to give me better gas mileage. If your vehicle doesn't burn much oil, do everything you can to keep it that way.
 
Originally Posted By: dan3952
.... Accords had soft rings those model years, and it's easier to stick them than with most cars...


LOL! been fixing cars/engine rebuilds for over a decade and never before have I heard something called "soft rings"....geese! I wonder where that urban myth comes from?


Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest

LOL! been fixing cars/engine rebuilds for over a decade and never before have I heard something called "soft rings"....geese! I wonder where that urban myth comes from?


Q.


Yeah that sounds like nonsense.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: dan3952
.... Accords had soft rings those model years, and it's easier to stick them than with most cars...


LOL! been fixing cars/engine rebuilds for over a decade and never before have I heard something called "soft rings"....geese! I wonder where that urban myth comes from?


Q.


Perhaps he means low tension rings? Sometimes people have alternate names.
 
Sorry to hijack an old thread, but I went out an purchased pennoil platinum 5W30. Should I change the oil every 6000 miles, or go longer?

Thanks in advance
George
 
Originally Posted By: GGorman04
Sorry to hijack an old thread, but I went out an purchased pennoil platinum 5W30. Should I change the oil every 6000 miles, or go longer?

Thanks in advance
George


8k or 18 months.
 
If you have only 106K on a '98 car, and have said you don't drive much, I'd say a once a year change on any oil would be plenty long.
I would not go 8K or 18 months on any oil without some UOA results to show that the oil has sufficient residual TBN, has not suffered excessive fuel dilution, and Hondas do have a pretty rich fuel map, and doesn't have excessive moisture.
Check out the UOA forum, and observe how low TBN can get after 5K on syn labeled oils.
PP has pretty good starting TBN and retention, but you shouldn't pop for a synthetic oil and simply assume that you can then run so many months or miles as you use your car.
Nobody can make a valid blanket recommendation of 8K or 18 months.
 
Which would likely be pretty safe.
Still, how do you drive the car?
If it is mainly short tripped, which I tend to think based upon the low miles, a year might be too long.
If you get the car out on an extended drive every couple of weeks, a year and 6K should be fine.
No oil can prevent the fuel dilution and accumulcation of moisture that short trip use brings, especially during the colder months of the year.
This will kill the oil's TBN, so 6K might not be a safe interval.
 
George:

As long as you don't do too many short trips there is no reason to change a quality total synthetic at the 12 month or 6k mark. If it was a dino only I would say yes, but with the premium synthetic you are getting more protection and longevity of the oil with more detergent and other additives to prolong the life of the oil.

If you really want to change at 6k or 12 mos just use a name brand dino or dino/syn blend. Actually the dino blend sounds like what you are looking for, at decent cost+longevity.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 91344George
George:

As long as you don't do too many short trips there is no reason to change a quality total synthetic at the 12 month or 6k mark. If it was a dino only I would say yes, but with the premium synthetic you are getting more protection and longevity of the oil with more detergent and other additives to prolong the life of the oil.

If you really want to change at 6k or 12 mos just use a name brand dino or dino/syn blend. Actually the dino blend sounds like what you are looking for, at decent cost+longevity.


Really?
And you base this upon what?
Have you some UOAs or at least research to support this?
Reading the threads in this forum counts for little, since it has become too much of a fanboy forum, where the opinions of those who know no more than you or I are simply repeated.
Spending some time in the UOA forum counts for more.
Personal experience with any given engine on any given oil counts as well, as long as you've run that engine enough miles to actually get into it's life after 150K or so as a daily driver.
Our current daily drivers as listed in my sig represent a fair example of the cars we've used over the years.
We buy them and we keep them.
I would not blindly recommend any time or drain interval for any engine and while PP is a very good oil, I don't think I'd consider it the ultimate oil in any application.
Understand also that syn versus blend versus dino has very little meaning. Some syns show lower starting TBN than some dinos, and also lower TBN retention, meaning that they aren't suited to drains extended in either time or miles.
It's not as simple as saying that a good syn can run X months or X miles. It depends upon the oil, the engine, the climate and how the car is used day to day.
Both Georges would benefit from reading more of what this site offers.
There is a wealth of information here, and the UOA forum is maybe the best place to start.
 
@fdcg27:

I personally drive a vehicle similar to the other George (94 Accord LX) and have done just what I am suggesting for him. Never a problem and I've been doing that routine for 5 yrs now.

Car has 236,000 miles on it and runs perfectly, no oil burning either.

Quality all dino change at around 18 mos or around 6500 mi.

No reason an SN branded oil shouldn't be able to handle this at all.
 
Alright, the car is driven 12 miles per trip two times a day 5 days a week. Would this be enough mileage to thoroughly warm the car up and go one year with a synthetic?
Thanks in advance
 
Then I take back my implication that you are not a long term owner.
The only thing you should be aware of is TBN depletion, something you would never see unless you did a UOA.
Still, I cannot argue with your success with this old Honda.
236K with no consumption is good by anyone's standards.
Our '97 is using a quart every 4K, and it only has 197K.
Good for you!
 
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