1998 Deville Northstar oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
1,563
Location
Ankeny, IA
Hey guys, a family member has a 1998 Deville for sale that we are considering getting an around town/commuting car. It has close to 170K on it but is a great price. What I want to know is, how easy is the matinance on it and what kind of oil and filter the big Northstar take. We probably won't get the car for at least 2-3 months, but I like to plan ahead of time (If we ever get it, lol) TIA
 
i heard the older Northstars were better on 10w30 than 5w30.

[edit]oops guess you already covered that. Maxlife 10w30?
 
Last edited:
I have read that those early Northstars did better if they were driven hard.
When they were purchased (new) by senior citizens and driven like 'little old ladies' it caused them to burn oil later on.
 
Tend to use oil but refuse to die. Of the three options offered I prefer the Mobil Super High Mileage.

Shell Rotella T5 10W30 is also a good choice as is the already mentioned Maxlife.
 
Very nice car/engine. My wife and I are on our 3rd and 4th Devilles with that engine. Things I can tell you:

1. Pre-2000, they did not have roller cams. I'd definitely use an HDEO (Rotella, Delo or Delvac) for the more robust anti-wear additive package to protect the flat tappet cams. Rotella would be my choice. Rotella T5 10w30 synthetic blend would be an excellent choice, but I'd consider their Rotella conventional 15w40 if consumption is a problem.

2. Consumption will probably be a problem. Those old Northstars leaked a lot. Newer ones that didn't leak still seemed to burn a lot. Think maybe a quart every 1,000 or 1,500 miles on the good side with a thick oil. I once saw a quart used in 600 miles when I tried a thin synthetic 5w30 (Pennzoil Platinum) in my old 2001 with about 120,000 miles on it. It got more than 1,000 miles on Rotella 15w40. With all the oil consumption I saw in my older ones, there still wasn't any downside to it other than having to add oil. They ran great and didn't foul plugs.

3. Change the antifreeze more often than they say to. Northstars developed a reputation, although I never saw it in mine, for head gasket failures. I think the extended antifreeze recommendation wasn't a good idea. I changed mine with the recommended Dexcool and distilled water every two years - and added a tube of Bar's Leaks powder (the same thing as the GM cooling system sealer pellets) each time. The sealer appears to be very important in those engines.

4. Thay have a common transmission problem. The lockup solenoids often go out by about 150,000 miles and throw error codes. It is a $50.00 part in about a $2,000 location because they have to raise the engine and pull the transmission to get to it. I think one would probably run forever without that solenoid if the error code isn't a problem for the owner, but you lose a MPG or so on the highway and the ATF theoretically runs a little warmer at highway speeds. I had my transmission rebuilt when the one on my 2000 failed - for about $2,500.

Besides these things, the front wheel hubs tend to wear out at about 100,000 miles and window regulator failures are very common. Be prepared to spend a little on such things and a Deville with a Northstar ehgine will be a good ride for many years.
 
these early northstars that used high test had problems with carbon build up if driven slow all the time ...the head bolts are known to pull out of the block and that is why they have problems...We wereone of the first shops that rebuilt those engines in or around 97...G.M would just replace them...They are very expensive engines but when they run they run great good on gas considering and fast!
the oil leaks are caused by one or two things the first one requires you to remove the engine to fix the other requires the pulley to be removed....Use 10w30 high mileage of your choice...there are no bad oils with a sm or sn rating there are only expensive ones..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom