Originally Posted By: Phishin
How much is a Honda OEM half-shaft?
$400+ up here.
How much is a Honda OEM half-shaft?
$400+ up here.
1998 Civic CV boot torn - re-boot or replace axle
- Thread starter wing0
- Start date
- Status
OK, I've read enough about these aftermarket CV axle that I think it's better to not gamble on them.
Now, I'm thinking, maybe get a used axle from another civic?
I found someone selling one for $40.
Now, I'm thinking, maybe get a used axle from another civic?
I found someone selling one for $40.
Called a honda dealership, new one is $464 + tax and there is only one left in Canada...
Originally Posted By: wing0
OK, I've read enough about these aftermarket CV axle that I think it's better to not gamble on them.
Now, I'm thinking, maybe get a used axle from another civic?
I found someone selling one for $40.
$40? If you can install yourself I'd do that. Worst case you're out $40 and a few hours of time, middle case is you now have a core. Best case is it just works.
OK, I've read enough about these aftermarket CV axle that I think it's better to not gamble on them.
Now, I'm thinking, maybe get a used axle from another civic?
I found someone selling one for $40.
$40? If you can install yourself I'd do that. Worst case you're out $40 and a few hours of time, middle case is you now have a core. Best case is it just works.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: wing0
OK, I've read enough about these aftermarket CV axle that I think it's better to not gamble on them.
Now, I'm thinking, maybe get a used axle from another civic?
I found someone selling one for $40.
$40? If you can install yourself I'd do that. Worst case you're out $40 and a few hours of time, middle case is you now have a core. Best case is it just works.
I've contacted 2 sellers. One has it out, but I can't see from the pictures if it has the ABS ring or not.
I'd need a bit more tool in order to do this myself plus the time it may take in the cold garage.
I probably will just take it to mechanic and have him install for $80.
It's probably a better gamble than aftermarket?
Originally Posted By: wing0
OK, I've read enough about these aftermarket CV axle that I think it's better to not gamble on them.
Now, I'm thinking, maybe get a used axle from another civic?
I found someone selling one for $40.
$40? If you can install yourself I'd do that. Worst case you're out $40 and a few hours of time, middle case is you now have a core. Best case is it just works.
I've contacted 2 sellers. One has it out, but I can't see from the pictures if it has the ABS ring or not.
I'd need a bit more tool in order to do this myself plus the time it may take in the cold garage.
I probably will just take it to mechanic and have him install for $80.
It's probably a better gamble than aftermarket?
IMO its a much better gamble than an aftermarket. Make sure it has no boot damage and see if you can get new boots from an online dealer and some grease to give to the mechanic, its not a big job to reboot it at this point.
Originally Posted By: Trav
IMO its a much better gamble than an aftermarket. Make sure it has no boot damage and see if you can get new boots from an online dealer and some grease to give to the mechanic, its not a big job to reboot it at this point.
I asked the 2 mechanics that I usually go to now and they both don't feel it's worthwhile to reboot the torn one.
I doubt they will want to reboot the used one unless I do it myself ahead of time.
I guess I could based on the DIY online so far.
IMO its a much better gamble than an aftermarket. Make sure it has no boot damage and see if you can get new boots from an online dealer and some grease to give to the mechanic, its not a big job to reboot it at this point.
I asked the 2 mechanics that I usually go to now and they both don't feel it's worthwhile to reboot the torn one.
I doubt they will want to reboot the used one unless I do it myself ahead of time.
I guess I could based on the DIY online so far.
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Thanks for the link. It's quite a bit more here http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cv-boot-clamp-pliers/A-p8160335e
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I also noticed there are some that looks original(3 ribs) and some universal ones that has 4-5 ribs.
Isn't the more ribs the better in terms of flexibility?
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Thanks for the link. It's quite a bit more here http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cv-boot-clamp-pliers/A-p8160335e
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I also noticed there are some that looks original(3 ribs) and some universal ones that has 4-5 ribs.
Isn't the more ribs the better in terms of flexibility?
Cardone reman axles have always been good to me. Most reman axles are Cardone, including "Honda" remans from the dealer, as are the parts stores' house brand remans (Autozone/Duralast, Napa, etc).
The best ones to buy are Raxles, if they make them for your car, which they probably do.
The best ones to buy are Raxles, if they make them for your car, which they probably do.
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Cardone reman axles have always been good to me. Most reman axles are Cardone, including "Honda" remans from the dealer, as are the parts stores' house brand remans (Autozone/Duralast, Napa, etc).
The best ones to buy are Raxles, if they make them for your car, which they probably do.
I looked at raxles too, but they don't ship to Canada.
I also found Cardone on rockauto, but it's their Select series which is the brand new ones made in China.
I couldn't find the reman ones and again, I have to worry about shipping.
Cardone reman axles have always been good to me. Most reman axles are Cardone, including "Honda" remans from the dealer, as are the parts stores' house brand remans (Autozone/Duralast, Napa, etc).
The best ones to buy are Raxles, if they make them for your car, which they probably do.
I looked at raxles too, but they don't ship to Canada.
I also found Cardone on rockauto, but it's their Select series which is the brand new ones made in China.
I couldn't find the reman ones and again, I have to worry about shipping.
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Thanks for the link. It's quite a bit more here http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cv-boot-clamp-pliers/A-p8160335e
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I also noticed there are some that looks original(3 ribs) and some universal ones that has 4-5 ribs.
Isn't the more ribs the better in terms of flexibility?
The tool you linked to is heavier tool, its better tool but for a few uses on this light duty clamp its not necessary to buy a better one, you may also be able to rent one.
The amount of ribs are not as important as the material used for the boot, OE is probably a poly boot which are very durable and good for +100K, neoprene ones (most aftermarket) are much easier torn and damaged, I suppose its possible the more ribs make on this type are more durable but I really don't know.
To check the joints, you feel for roughness and rotational play, turn it one way then then the other, there should be no play, rotate the joint in a circular motion, it should be smooth.
I never used Raxale but Cardone is rubbish, they grind the surface hardness out of the joint and their new ones are cheap Chinese.
To clean the joints, remove the boot and just wipe out as much of the grease as possible, a small amount left in it wont cause any issues if the boot was intact.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Thanks for the link. It's quite a bit more here http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cv-boot-clamp-pliers/A-p8160335e
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I also noticed there are some that looks original(3 ribs) and some universal ones that has 4-5 ribs.
Isn't the more ribs the better in terms of flexibility?
The tool you linked to is heavier tool, its better tool but for a few uses on this light duty clamp its not necessary to buy a better one, you may also be able to rent one.
The amount of ribs are not as important as the material used for the boot, OE is probably a poly boot which are very durable and good for +100K, neoprene ones (most aftermarket) are much easier torn and damaged, I suppose its possible the more ribs make on this type are more durable but I really don't know.
To check the joints, you feel for roughness and rotational play, turn it one way then then the other, there should be no play, rotate the joint in a circular motion, it should be smooth.
I never used Raxale but Cardone is rubbish, they grind the surface hardness out of the joint and their new ones are cheap Chinese.
To clean the joints, remove the boot and just wipe out as much of the grease as possible, a small amount left in it wont cause any issues if the boot was intact.
Originally Posted By: wing0
I looked at raxles too, but they don't ship to Canada.
I also found Cardone on rockauto, but it's their Select series which is the brand new ones made in China.
I couldn't find the reman ones and again, I have to worry about shipping.
Get the Napa reman axles then
Napa Canada's search isn't great, but you can always find the interchange on Napa's US site. Use the A1 Cardone reman part number to interchange with, and the Napa reman part number will show up. Just plug that Napa pn into the Canadian site and you will find what you need
I looked at raxles too, but they don't ship to Canada.
I also found Cardone on rockauto, but it's their Select series which is the brand new ones made in China.
I couldn't find the reman ones and again, I have to worry about shipping.
Get the Napa reman axles then
Napa Canada's search isn't great, but you can always find the interchange on Napa's US site. Use the A1 Cardone reman part number to interchange with, and the Napa reman part number will show up. Just plug that Napa pn into the Canadian site and you will find what you need
Originally Posted By: wing0
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I'd move it around, although I'm not sure if a clicky one would be felt, unless if it was real bad. On the flip side, if you install and it does click... you can then rebuild your old axle in the meantime.
There are youtube vids on rebuilding the CV. I looked at a few, but the main jist is... towels. Lots and lots of towels. It's a messy job, and I bet some mechanics just don't want to deal with it. Get a big roll of paper towels, tear of some to have handy, grab some disposable gloves and place the trash can real close by.
Have you looked into how to do the axle yourself? I'm sure some are easier to do than others--I don't know anything about your car. When I did mine I bought the socket for the axle nut (lucked out, a fleamarket find) and hit it with my Earthquake impact wrench. It took several minutes but it came off. Jack car up, drop onto stands, remove wheel. I think caliper and rotor stayed on, but ball joint bolts came out, then pop the bolts on the axle (I had to get triple-square tool, that I had to get off Amazon). Bit of fuss but eventually the axle came out. Reverse for install. In my case there was some odd tightening sequence for the axle nut, but I suspect a great deal are simply hit with the impact. Again, you might luck out and find a good vid on youtube for your exact car.
Edit: errm, forget if you wanted to do this job yourself or not. If not, ignore the above. Just get the old axle back from the mechanic and attempt the reboot job yourself. Perhaps after waiting to see if the used axle is problematic.
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I'd move it around, although I'm not sure if a clicky one would be felt, unless if it was real bad. On the flip side, if you install and it does click... you can then rebuild your old axle in the meantime.
There are youtube vids on rebuilding the CV. I looked at a few, but the main jist is... towels. Lots and lots of towels. It's a messy job, and I bet some mechanics just don't want to deal with it. Get a big roll of paper towels, tear of some to have handy, grab some disposable gloves and place the trash can real close by.
Have you looked into how to do the axle yourself? I'm sure some are easier to do than others--I don't know anything about your car. When I did mine I bought the socket for the axle nut (lucked out, a fleamarket find) and hit it with my Earthquake impact wrench. It took several minutes but it came off. Jack car up, drop onto stands, remove wheel. I think caliper and rotor stayed on, but ball joint bolts came out, then pop the bolts on the axle (I had to get triple-square tool, that I had to get off Amazon). Bit of fuss but eventually the axle came out. Reverse for install. In my case there was some odd tightening sequence for the axle nut, but I suspect a great deal are simply hit with the impact. Again, you might luck out and find a good vid on youtube for your exact car.
Edit: errm, forget if you wanted to do this job yourself or not. If not, ignore the above. Just get the old axle back from the mechanic and attempt the reboot job yourself. Perhaps after waiting to see if the used axle is problematic.
Last edited:
If this was my car and I was DIY'ing the job -which is what I personally would do- then I would disassemble the joint, clean it all out and reboot. I rebooted one a while ago and it was quite easy.
I think we underestimate how tough many of these axles can be.
So, unless you're crunched for time or otherwise can't do it, then I'd reboot. If it starts making noise down the road, then replace it. If that's not what you want to do, the other good option is used OE axle.
I think shops lean towards replacement rather than rebooting because it's quicker and easier for them, unless they get the cheapest reman axles and have the problems already mentioned here.
I think we underestimate how tough many of these axles can be.
So, unless you're crunched for time or otherwise can't do it, then I'd reboot. If it starts making noise down the road, then replace it. If that's not what you want to do, the other good option is used OE axle.
I think shops lean towards replacement rather than rebooting because it's quicker and easier for them, unless they get the cheapest reman axles and have the problems already mentioned here.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Thanks for the link. It's quite a bit more here http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cv-boot-clamp-pliers/A-p8160335e
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I also noticed there are some that looks original(3 ribs) and some universal ones that has 4-5 ribs.
Isn't the more ribs the better in terms of flexibility?
The tool you linked to is heavier tool, its better tool but for a few uses on this light duty clamp its not necessary to buy a better one, you may also be able to rent one.
The amount of ribs are not as important as the material used for the boot, OE is probably a poly boot which are very durable and good for +100K, neoprene ones (most aftermarket) are much easier torn and damaged, I suppose its possible the more ribs make on this type are more durable but I really don't know.
To check the joints, you feel for roughness and rotational play, turn it one way then then the other, there should be no play, rotate the joint in a circular motion, it should be smooth.
I never used Raxale but Cardone is rubbish, they grind the surface hardness out of the joint and their new ones are cheap Chinese.
To clean the joints, remove the boot and just wipe out as much of the grease as possible, a small amount left in it wont cause any issues if the boot was intact.
I looked up the boot material. Rockauto sells boot kit that are all neoprene, the only poly one is the split boot, obviously not going that route.
Unless I order the boot from Honda which is listed at around $70 vs $25 for Beck/Arnley.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: wing0
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I'd move it around, although I'm not sure if a clicky one would be felt, unless if it was real bad. On the flip side, if you install and it does click... you can then rebuild your old axle in the meantime.
There are youtube vids on rebuilding the CV. I looked at a few, but the main jist is... towels. Lots and lots of towels. It's a messy job, and I bet some mechanics just don't want to deal with it. Get a big roll of paper towels, tear of some to have handy, grab some disposable gloves and place the trash can real close by.
Have you looked into how to do the axle yourself? I'm sure some are easier to do than others--I don't know anything about your car. When I did mine I bought the socket for the axle nut (lucked out, a fleamarket find) and hit it with my Earthquake impact wrench. It took several minutes but it came off. Jack car up, drop onto stands, remove wheel. I think caliper and rotor stayed on, but ball joint bolts came out, then pop the bolts on the axle (I had to get triple-square tool, that I had to get off Amazon). Bit of fuss but eventually the axle came out. Reverse for install. In my case there was some odd tightening sequence for the axle nut, but I suspect a great deal are simply hit with the impact. Again, you might luck out and find a good vid on youtube for your exact car.
Edit: errm, forget if you wanted to do this job yourself or not. If not, ignore the above. Just get the old axle back from the mechanic and attempt the reboot job yourself. Perhaps after waiting to see if the used axle is problematic.
In terms of DIY, I'm missing:
axle nut socket
cheater bar for breaker bar on the axle nut
pry bar for getting drive shaft out
heavier hammer to take the CV joint off
I still have to re-boot or replace with the used OE axle. Just the time used for all this, the mechanic can get it done in an hour.
Plus the amount of time that I'd have to put into this in the unheated garage.
I am debating between the 2 paths.
1. Get used OE axle, mechanic puts it in and hope for the best
2. Get used OE axle, re-boot it first so that the boot is less likely to torn and put it in
Does the second path even make sense?
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would take the mechanics word for it. Rebooting is easy enough you just need a pliers to crimp the clamps, they don't cost a lot and can be found online or in parts stores.
This one will do the job for $10.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-sp...ers/141501_0_0/
Thanks for the link. It's quite a bit more here http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/cv-boot-clamp-pliers/A-p8160335e
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I also noticed there are some that looks original(3 ribs) and some universal ones that has 4-5 ribs.
Isn't the more ribs the better in terms of flexibility?
The tool you linked to is heavier tool, its better tool but for a few uses on this light duty clamp its not necessary to buy a better one, you may also be able to rent one.
The amount of ribs are not as important as the material used for the boot, OE is probably a poly boot which are very durable and good for +100K, neoprene ones (most aftermarket) are much easier torn and damaged, I suppose its possible the more ribs make on this type are more durable but I really don't know.
To check the joints, you feel for roughness and rotational play, turn it one way then then the other, there should be no play, rotate the joint in a circular motion, it should be smooth.
I never used Raxale but Cardone is rubbish, they grind the surface hardness out of the joint and their new ones are cheap Chinese.
To clean the joints, remove the boot and just wipe out as much of the grease as possible, a small amount left in it wont cause any issues if the boot was intact.
I looked up the boot material. Rockauto sells boot kit that are all neoprene, the only poly one is the split boot, obviously not going that route.
Unless I order the boot from Honda which is listed at around $70 vs $25 for Beck/Arnley.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: wing0
If I get the used one, is there any way I can tell if it has issues? just twist it to see if it clicks?
A new boot kit usually has grease included.
How do I clean up the grease in the joint area?
I'd move it around, although I'm not sure if a clicky one would be felt, unless if it was real bad. On the flip side, if you install and it does click... you can then rebuild your old axle in the meantime.
There are youtube vids on rebuilding the CV. I looked at a few, but the main jist is... towels. Lots and lots of towels. It's a messy job, and I bet some mechanics just don't want to deal with it. Get a big roll of paper towels, tear of some to have handy, grab some disposable gloves and place the trash can real close by.
Have you looked into how to do the axle yourself? I'm sure some are easier to do than others--I don't know anything about your car. When I did mine I bought the socket for the axle nut (lucked out, a fleamarket find) and hit it with my Earthquake impact wrench. It took several minutes but it came off. Jack car up, drop onto stands, remove wheel. I think caliper and rotor stayed on, but ball joint bolts came out, then pop the bolts on the axle (I had to get triple-square tool, that I had to get off Amazon). Bit of fuss but eventually the axle came out. Reverse for install. In my case there was some odd tightening sequence for the axle nut, but I suspect a great deal are simply hit with the impact. Again, you might luck out and find a good vid on youtube for your exact car.
Edit: errm, forget if you wanted to do this job yourself or not. If not, ignore the above. Just get the old axle back from the mechanic and attempt the reboot job yourself. Perhaps after waiting to see if the used axle is problematic.
In terms of DIY, I'm missing:
axle nut socket
cheater bar for breaker bar on the axle nut
pry bar for getting drive shaft out
heavier hammer to take the CV joint off
I still have to re-boot or replace with the used OE axle. Just the time used for all this, the mechanic can get it done in an hour.
Plus the amount of time that I'd have to put into this in the unheated garage.
I am debating between the 2 paths.
1. Get used OE axle, mechanic puts it in and hope for the best
2. Get used OE axle, re-boot it first so that the boot is less likely to torn and put it in
Does the second path even make sense?
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: wing0
I looked at raxles too, but they don't ship to Canada.
I also found Cardone on rockauto, but it's their Select series which is the brand new ones made in China.
I couldn't find the reman ones and again, I have to worry about shipping.
Get the Napa reman axles then
Napa Canada's search isn't great, but you can always find the interchange on Napa's US site. Use the A1 Cardone reman part number to interchange with, and the Napa reman part number will show up. Just plug that Napa pn into the Canadian site and you will find what you need
Thanks for your suggestion. I forgot to call Napa for quotes so I just did.
The guy said Napa CV axles are from Cardone but they call it MaxDrive.
The reman version is OE axle and it's $156 + $10 core charge
New version is not OE(I assume made in China) and it's $136
If I can't get the used OE axle(contacting the guy now to see when I can get it).
I will probably go with the reman version for better assurance.
Originally Posted By: wing0
I looked at raxles too, but they don't ship to Canada.
I also found Cardone on rockauto, but it's their Select series which is the brand new ones made in China.
I couldn't find the reman ones and again, I have to worry about shipping.
Get the Napa reman axles then
Napa Canada's search isn't great, but you can always find the interchange on Napa's US site. Use the A1 Cardone reman part number to interchange with, and the Napa reman part number will show up. Just plug that Napa pn into the Canadian site and you will find what you need
Thanks for your suggestion. I forgot to call Napa for quotes so I just did.
The guy said Napa CV axles are from Cardone but they call it MaxDrive.
The reman version is OE axle and it's $156 + $10 core charge
New version is not OE(I assume made in China) and it's $136
If I can't get the used OE axle(contacting the guy now to see when I can get it).
I will probably go with the reman version for better assurance.
I wouldn't even pull the inner joint out unless the boot on it looked suspect too.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
I wouldn't even pull the inner joint out unless the boot on it looked suspect too.
Sorry, got a little confused by this.
Are you referring to the axle that's in the car right now?
Re-boot it without pulling the axle out?
I wouldn't even pull the inner joint out unless the boot on it looked suspect too.
Sorry, got a little confused by this.
Are you referring to the axle that's in the car right now?
Re-boot it without pulling the axle out?
Originally Posted By: wing0
Plus the amount of time that I'd have to put into this in the unheated garage.
I am debating between the 2 paths.
1. Get used OE axle, mechanic puts it in and hope for the best
2. Get used OE axle, re-boot it first so that the boot is less likely to torn and put it in
Does the second path even make sense?
Unheated garage, pshaw, I have to work outside. Yesterday I was putting on a set of wheels at 25F with a decent amount of breeze -- what I wouldn't do for an unheated garage!
That aside, it sounds like DIY is out. Fair enough.
Hmm, I'm not sure I'd reboot if the boot looks good. I get the temptation to do so, you'd know it was new; but old doesn't mean it's about to go. If it had significantly less miles I'd probably not. IMO, and just my option, I'd want to remove the current axle "fast" so that it isn't getting any more damage. Swap in the used axle as-is. Reboot the one you have, in case it needs to go back in.
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
I wouldn't even pull the inner joint out unless the boot on it looked suspect too.
Sorry, got a little confused by this.
Are you referring to the axle that's in the car right now?
Re-boot it without pulling the axle out?
The half-shaft has two boots on it, for the two joints. Your car has two half-shafts, thus 4 boots and four CV's. He's saying to leave the inner boot (and CV) alone. The outer boot sees all the "abuse" of turning, while the inner boot (and CV) sees much less flexing. The outer sees the full turn-to-turn steering, while the inner only see some flexing from when you go over big bumps. As a result, the inners usually are fine to leave alone.
[The inner and outer CV's are different types, optimized for their usage. Outer has a wide range of flexibility, while the inner is more limited--but has the addition ability of being able to adjust its length. wikipedia etc would explain far better. Just a tidbit of random info not really relevant to the job at hand, but may be fun to look up and read up on.]
Plus the amount of time that I'd have to put into this in the unheated garage.
I am debating between the 2 paths.
1. Get used OE axle, mechanic puts it in and hope for the best
2. Get used OE axle, re-boot it first so that the boot is less likely to torn and put it in
Does the second path even make sense?
Unheated garage, pshaw, I have to work outside. Yesterday I was putting on a set of wheels at 25F with a decent amount of breeze -- what I wouldn't do for an unheated garage!
That aside, it sounds like DIY is out. Fair enough.
Hmm, I'm not sure I'd reboot if the boot looks good. I get the temptation to do so, you'd know it was new; but old doesn't mean it's about to go. If it had significantly less miles I'd probably not. IMO, and just my option, I'd want to remove the current axle "fast" so that it isn't getting any more damage. Swap in the used axle as-is. Reboot the one you have, in case it needs to go back in.
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
I wouldn't even pull the inner joint out unless the boot on it looked suspect too.
Sorry, got a little confused by this.
Are you referring to the axle that's in the car right now?
Re-boot it without pulling the axle out?
The half-shaft has two boots on it, for the two joints. Your car has two half-shafts, thus 4 boots and four CV's. He's saying to leave the inner boot (and CV) alone. The outer boot sees all the "abuse" of turning, while the inner boot (and CV) sees much less flexing. The outer sees the full turn-to-turn steering, while the inner only see some flexing from when you go over big bumps. As a result, the inners usually are fine to leave alone.
[The inner and outer CV's are different types, optimized for their usage. Outer has a wide range of flexibility, while the inner is more limited--but has the addition ability of being able to adjust its length. wikipedia etc would explain far better. Just a tidbit of random info not really relevant to the job at hand, but may be fun to look up and read up on.]
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