1994 Civic LX 1.6L Brake Bleeding
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Originally Posted By: AVB
Did you bleed it at the master cylinder too? If it has abs, there could be air in the abs also. I am not that familiar with those Hondas. All that I remember ever doing are brake pads and timing belts.
Bench bled the Master Cylinder with the provided kit. Bled it without any problems.
It does have ABS but I have never bled the ABS in any of my cars. Never had this issue where the pedal just travels midway before finally grabbing.
All I can think about causing this issue is having literally no meat on the pads. Front pads still have life. Maybe half.
Also was thinking about the Brake Booster shaft not being adjusted to the new Master Cylinder.
In the past, when I have replaced Brake boosters, I've had to adjust the center push rod from the booster to the Master Cylinder (MC) so that the pedal travel is right on the money.
The symptoms we have on this 94 Honda are the same as they were before changing the MC so I highly doubt that the brake booster center push rod is the issue.
Please advise
Did you bleed it at the master cylinder too? If it has abs, there could be air in the abs also. I am not that familiar with those Hondas. All that I remember ever doing are brake pads and timing belts.
Bench bled the Master Cylinder with the provided kit. Bled it without any problems.
It does have ABS but I have never bled the ABS in any of my cars. Never had this issue where the pedal just travels midway before finally grabbing.
All I can think about causing this issue is having literally no meat on the pads. Front pads still have life. Maybe half.
Also was thinking about the Brake Booster shaft not being adjusted to the new Master Cylinder.
In the past, when I have replaced Brake boosters, I've had to adjust the center push rod from the booster to the Master Cylinder (MC) so that the pedal travel is right on the money.
The symptoms we have on this 94 Honda are the same as they were before changing the MC so I highly doubt that the brake booster center push rod is the issue.
Please advise
As someone else noted, wobble in the rotor or wheel bearings can push the pads apart and the caliper piston back as the rotor turns, resulting in excessive pedal travel to re-apply the brakes.
You could test for that by applying the brake pedal repeatedly with the car stopped, and ideally the wheels off the ground.
You could test for that by applying the brake pedal repeatedly with the car stopped, and ideally the wheels off the ground.
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Go back to furthest bleeder. Pump some fluid out the bleeder. Is it clear? If yes, repeat process at other bleeders. Also maintain fluid level in MC .
Going to bleed again to see if air bubbles come out.
Just hoping that after I install the new rear brake pads the brake pedal gets firmer.
I'm just thinking that the pedal would have to travel that much more when the pads practically have no meat on them.
If its not that then I will have to consider that the new MC I got is faulty.
Please advise
Just hoping that after I install the new rear brake pads the brake pedal gets firmer.
I'm just thinking that the pedal would have to travel that much more when the pads practically have no meat on them.
If its not that then I will have to consider that the new MC I got is faulty.
Please advise
One way to test the MC is to remove the brake lines and use plugs in the ports.
Check for a firm pedal.
If good, hook up 1 line and retest.
This helps isolate the problem.
I doubt it is the master...
Good luck.
Check for a firm pedal.
If good, hook up 1 line and retest.
This helps isolate the problem.
I doubt it is the master...
Good luck.
When bleeding with a helper, do you have him press on the brake once, then you open the bleeder?
I had a similar issue last year on the Maxima, where my wife was working the pedal and I the bleeders. Because of heat, I lost my concentration and let the brake fluid level in the reservoir get too low and sucked air in.
No amount of "brake once then open bleeder" helped to get all the air out. I then used a vacuum bleeder and still couldn't get all the air out.
What finally worked was pumping the brake pedal 3-4 times and then opening the bleeder. I remembered at that point a distant memory when I was helping my dad bleed the brakes as a kid and he had me pumping the brake pedal.
No ABS here.
I had a similar issue last year on the Maxima, where my wife was working the pedal and I the bleeders. Because of heat, I lost my concentration and let the brake fluid level in the reservoir get too low and sucked air in.
No amount of "brake once then open bleeder" helped to get all the air out. I then used a vacuum bleeder and still couldn't get all the air out.
What finally worked was pumping the brake pedal 3-4 times and then opening the bleeder. I remembered at that point a distant memory when I was helping my dad bleed the brakes as a kid and he had me pumping the brake pedal.
No ABS here.
Compressing the calipers without opening the bleeder pushes fluid back to the reservoir. It could carry some air with the fluid if there is air close to the master cylinder. It is like reverse bleeding. https://www.brakebleeder.com/solutions/bleeding-brakes/how-it-works/
Originally Posted By: AVB
Compressing the calipers without opening the bleeder pushes fluid back to the reservoir. It could carry some air with the fluid if there is air close to the master cylinder. It is like reverse bleeding. https://www.brakebleeder.com/solutions/bleeding-brakes/how-it-works/
Got it.
Would be nice to use this brake bleeding system. The car is equipped with ABS and according to their website the ABS system fluid must also be free of contaminants.
I'm not sure how the ABS system works on this Honda but some mention that it operates with a separate brake fluid system.
Not quite sure how the ABS system works with the brake regular brake system.
I thought that pushing the piston back into the caliper can sometimes damage the Master Cylinder?
On one of Eric the Car Guy's videos, he pinches a rubber brake line, cracks the bleeder screw and then continues to push the piston back into the caliper causing brake fluid to exit thru the bleeder screw.
I'm just hoping that the very worn brake pads is the cause for the brake pedal traveling past halfway point before it grabs on to the rotor.
Any advice is greatly appreciated
Compressing the calipers without opening the bleeder pushes fluid back to the reservoir. It could carry some air with the fluid if there is air close to the master cylinder. It is like reverse bleeding. https://www.brakebleeder.com/solutions/bleeding-brakes/how-it-works/
Got it.
Would be nice to use this brake bleeding system. The car is equipped with ABS and according to their website the ABS system fluid must also be free of contaminants.
I'm not sure how the ABS system works on this Honda but some mention that it operates with a separate brake fluid system.
Not quite sure how the ABS system works with the brake regular brake system.
I thought that pushing the piston back into the caliper can sometimes damage the Master Cylinder?
On one of Eric the Car Guy's videos, he pinches a rubber brake line, cracks the bleeder screw and then continues to push the piston back into the caliper causing brake fluid to exit thru the bleeder screw.
I'm just hoping that the very worn brake pads is the cause for the brake pedal traveling past halfway point before it grabs on to the rotor.
Any advice is greatly appreciated
Originally Posted By: Gito
I'm just hoping that the very worn brake pads is the cause for the brake pedal traveling past halfway point before it grabs on to the rotor.
You can put that thought to rest, it's not that.
I'm just hoping that the very worn brake pads is the cause for the brake pedal traveling past halfway point before it grabs on to the rotor.
You can put that thought to rest, it's not that.
Most all ABS systems these days don't have separate fluid circuits. When you flush the system, you're flushing new fluid through them as well. If there's any question, you can always wait for a rainy day and romp the brakes (In a safe place) to let the ABS cycle.
A few months ago I removed the brake booster to my Mercedes 1979 300sd and got it rebuilt. I took advantage and supplied the rebuilding shop with a new Master Cylinder (MC) so that they could adjust the booster push rod to the MC.
The rebuilder adjusted the brake booster center push rod to the MC and handed the booster with the MC installed.
One less thing to worry about for me.
I know its a long shot but maybe the new MC that I purchased is not properly making contact with the Brake Booster push rod and excess travel by the push rod is causing my brakes not to engage when they should.
I would hate to think that Rock A provided a bad MC. So I don't quite want to go there yet.
I'm going to try to bleed one more time and see what happens.
The rebuilder adjusted the brake booster center push rod to the MC and handed the booster with the MC installed.
One less thing to worry about for me.
I know its a long shot but maybe the new MC that I purchased is not properly making contact with the Brake Booster push rod and excess travel by the push rod is causing my brakes not to engage when they should.
I would hate to think that Rock A provided a bad MC. So I don't quite want to go there yet.
I'm going to try to bleed one more time and see what happens.
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