1990 Mustang oil recommendation

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Originally Posted By: Patman
I owned two different 5.0s and the first things I did with both of them was bump the timing and pull the air silencer!
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I'm not sure how much actual horsepower you get from those two changes, but you certainly get better throttle response! It's been so long that I forget the actual details, but there is another free mod you can do with the throttle position sensor to help out as well.

It might sound like a cheezy way to do it but if you don't have a timing light, you can adjust the timing by ear as well. Loosen the distributor and turn it very slightly clockwise and then go for a full throttle blast and listen for pinging. If you hear none, keep advancing the timing a little bit at a time until you hear it, then back it off a hair. We did that with a few of my buddies cars back in the day if we didn't happen to have a timing light handy (or if we were simply too lazy to hook it up)
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I ran a bunch of different oils in my two 5.0s, the first one I ran Amsoil 10w40, then the second one I switched between Amsoil 10w30, Mobil 1 10w30 and for the last few years I ran Canadian Tire synthetic 10w30 (silly me thought it was Mobil 1 repackaged back then, oops!)


The "TPS mod" is a myth. EEC-IV zeroes the TPS on every start. What happens is that they develop flat spots, and rotating them a bit masks the issue.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


The "TPS mod" is a myth. EEC-IV zeroes the TPS on every start. What happens is that they develop flat spots, and rotating them a bit masks the issue.


I remember on my second 5.0 the TPS voltage was way off spec though, and after setting it right the throttle response was a heck of a lot better.
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


The "TPS mod" is a myth. EEC-IV zeroes the TPS on every start. What happens is that they develop flat spots, and rotating them a bit masks the issue.


I remember on my second 5.0 the TPS voltage was way off spec though, and after setting it right the throttle response was a heck of a lot better.


As long as it is below 1.13V IIRC KOEO, it is "within spec". Usually you want it below 1.00V though. The .988888888888 thing is a myth. My Lincoln was at .76V or something when I checked it (to make sure it was OK) and it was fine.

I've got a copy of the Ford EEC-IV bible, the GUFB. It is the complete strategy guide for EEC-IV and how it operates. The TPS is "zeroed" on every start. That is, as long as it is within "spec", which is a range from .68 to 1.13V IIRC.

However, as the sensors age, they develop flat spots which will cause hesitation and lack of throttle response. Sometimes "clocking" the TPS moves it past these spots (or puts them at idle, somewhere you'd never notice) and the problem goes away.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


However, as the sensors age, they develop flat spots which will cause hesitation and lack of throttle response. Sometimes "clocking" the TPS moves it past these spots (or puts them at idle, somewhere you'd never notice) and the problem goes away.


Yup fer sure, I just had to repl the TPS on my '93 F-150 Lightning with the 5.8 because it would fall completely on it's face at times...

I've experimented with the TPS voltage on my Trick Flow headed 5.0 T-Bird, after hundreds of drag strip passes, I never could see any advantage in the Holy Grail .9999 voltage setting...

I believe it was 5.0 Stang or one of the other mags that tried the TPS mod and couldn't gain any performance either, they stated, "we know it's worked on other 5.0s", yeah right...
 
I've heard the same. Then reading the GUFB and getting acquainted with how the entire system works, there is no way that it could possibly make a difference. Whatever the voltage is at when the engine fires is "0". Everything above that is open throttle. When you hit ~3/4 throttle, the ECM goes into open loop and you are "WOT".
 
Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum



Sounds like my kind of older lady. Actually she's probably my age...

:-)




Well, she's in her early 50's and i'm 26 so...lol sorry.


If she bought that Mustang new, she wasn't much older than you are now when she got it! ;-)
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Grat on the mustang, not a mustang fan but I LOVE THAT 5.0L body style. I might buy one if I ever cross one with good condition.


That's the trick... finding one for sale AND in good condition is getting tough. I may bleed Pentastar-shaped blood cells, but I have to say Ford did it right with that car and it was really the only choice in those days (I never was a fan of turbo FWDs like Mopar was building then, and the 80s Camaro just didn't measure up). And talk about aftermarket support! One of the car magazines put the Foxstang in its top-10 cars of all time (some time in the early 90s) and referred to it as "the car enthusiast's Swiss army knife." You could drag race it, you could autocross it, you could pretty much do whatever the heck you felt like. And probably that's why so many of them were driven right into the ground with 200,000+ hard miles on them.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Grat on the mustang, not a mustang fan but I LOVE THAT 5.0L body style. I might buy one if I ever cross one with good condition.


That's the trick... finding one for sale AND in good condition is getting tough. I may bleed Pentastar-shaped blood cells, but I have to say Ford did it right with that car and it was really the only choice in those days (I never was a fan of turbo FWDs like Mopar was building then, and the 80s Camaro just didn't measure up). And talk about aftermarket support! One of the car magazines put the Foxstang in its top-10 cars of all time (some time in the early 90s) and referred to it as "the car enthusiast's Swiss army knife." You could drag race it, you could autocross it, you could pretty much do whatever the heck you felt like. And probably that's why so many of them were driven right into the ground with 200,000+ hard miles on them.



yeah its todays shoebox. just put subframe connectors on it before you tear it up. and dont forget to reinforce or at least weld up the torque boxes.
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Grat on the mustang, not a mustang fan but I LOVE THAT 5.0L body style. I might buy one if I ever cross one with good condition.


That's the trick... finding one for sale AND in good condition is getting tough. I may bleed Pentastar-shaped blood cells, but I have to say Ford did it right with that car and it was really the only choice in those days (I never was a fan of turbo FWDs like Mopar was building then, and the 80s Camaro just didn't measure up). And talk about aftermarket support! One of the car magazines put the Foxstang in its top-10 cars of all time (some time in the early 90s) and referred to it as "the car enthusiast's Swiss army knife." You could drag race it, you could autocross it, you could pretty much do whatever the heck you felt like. And probably that's why so many of them were driven right into the ground with 200,000+ hard miles on them.



yeah its todays shoebox. just put subframe connectors on it before you tear it up. and dont forget to reinforce or at least weld up the torque boxes.


Heck, you can even toss the IRS from the new-Edge Cobra in it.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Grat on the mustang, not a mustang fan but I LOVE THAT 5.0L body style. I might buy one if I ever cross one with good condition.


That's the trick... finding one for sale AND in good condition is getting tough. I may bleed Pentastar-shaped blood cells, but I have to say Ford did it right with that car and it was really the only choice in those days (I never was a fan of turbo FWDs like Mopar was building then, and the 80s Camaro just didn't measure up). And talk about aftermarket support! One of the car magazines put the Foxstang in its top-10 cars of all time (some time in the early 90s) and referred to it as "the car enthusiast's Swiss army knife." You could drag race it, you could autocross it, you could pretty much do whatever the heck you felt like. And probably that's why so many of them were driven right into the ground with 200,000+ hard miles on them.


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There was even a crew Pro Rallying one back when the SCCA still controlled that branch of the sport in this country.
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They named it "The Hairy Canary", it being yellow.

I would probably be driving one now IF (as you've stated) I could have found a silver LX in good shape/low miles/for a decent price back before when I bought my current ride!!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
How do you plan on driving it?

I'd use at least Mobil 1 0w40 in it, if not Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 or Rotella 5w40 in it if you plan on beating on it.


I also would say go with a 40 weight oil. The oil analysis results for my 89 Mark VII LSC (same 5.0L HO engine) showed less bearing wear (less lead) with 5W-40 and 0W-40 oils over 5w30.

I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40, Chevron/Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 with great results.
Christian

1989 Lincoln Mark VII LSC - 5.0L HO V8
1996 Jaguar XJR - 4.0L SC I6
2001 Jaguar S-Type V6
 
Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40


I'm a fan of quakerstate. Would it be wise using Quaker State Ultimate Durability or highmileage or even Quaker State Conventional. Or maybe a pennzoil choice would be better? Since it will be a weekend toy that will probably only get 5k a year on it. I will probably stick the twice a year OCI. Also, would it be a better choice to go with a 5-30 over a 10-30 that it calls for? I'm a fan of using wix filters to.
Thanks


I had a 99 and it loved synthetic. When I sold it it was purring. IMO Quaker State Ultimate Durability, PP or (here comes the fun...) kendall Full Synthetic which is similar to Motorcraft Full Synthetic. MC syn is actually my first choice but it is pricey and hard to find. I always use the Motorcraft filters with a Ford. They're resonably priced and they work. Oh yeah, if it calls for 10w30, use it. Again this is my opinion. I loved the Pony. Only sold it because my back went bad and I couldn't get in and out anymore. Never had a repair. Only maintenance. It was the most trouble free car I ever owned. Had it 11 years. Enjoy!
 
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