1990 E350 sender unit/ fuel lines

[brianl703]

My apologies- I wasn't clear. I've run through all that and know I need the values stated.

I was just hoping for a miracle suggestion of something that wasn't Airtex level garbage and closer to OEM.

Ok, well, I can help you with the Ford part number. You were trying to determine how E2060S crosses to F1UZ-9H307-A because other senders cross to almost identical part numbers.

The way Ford part numbers work is:

F1 = year, in this case, 1991 (this is the year the part was introduced not necessarily the model year of the vehicle it fits)
U = vehicle line, in this case, Econoline
Z = division/engineering department, in this case, Ford
9H307 = base part number, this would be for a fuel pump/sender/fuel delivery module
A = revision or variation or change level (sometimes this is two letters, AA, AB, and so on)

So all other senders that fit the 1991 Econoline would have identical Ford part numbers except for the last letter or two.

 

[brianl703]

I was just hoping for a miracle suggestion of something that wasn't Airtex level garbage and closer to OEM.

CARTER P77323S is discontinued (per Rock Auto), but you might find someone who has it in stock.

Spectra Premium SP2015H crosses to that Carter number.

Here are some other options that cross to SP2015H:

TecDoc

TecDoc Catalogue by TecAlliance - one of the world's leading global vehicle and spare parts catalogues for the automotive aftermarket based on the TecDoc standard.

www.opticatonline.com

 

[D60]

CARTER P77323S is discontinued (per Rock Auto), but you might find someone who has it in stock.

Spectra Premium SP2015H crosses to that Carter number.

Here are some other options that cross to SP2015H:

TecDoc

TecDoc Catalogue by TecAlliance - one of the world's leading global vehicle and spare parts catalogues for the automotive aftermarket based on the TecDoc standard.

www.opticatonline.com

Thank you!

 

[D60]

{snip}
Have the tank hanging down, and am fighting with the quick-connects. They curve as they go into the flexible lines and don't give me enough room to start both halves of my quick connect tool. I've also tried stabbing in there with a pick, pushing the lines toward the sending unit, etc. Not budging.

Does anyone know what they used for flex fuel lines? I've got a foam rubber outer layer, braided steel, and then unknown. If it's rubber I may wind up cutting and splicing the lines back together. I've done it with vinyl as well but really hate doing it as they go poorly. May try a sharkbite style fitting instead of barbed, if I have to.

I'd like to reuse as much of the sender as possible. Does anyone know a source for just a float, preferably plastic? I have one, or a couple, of small engine carb floats I could safety wire in place, but that's kludgy even for myself, LOL.

Does anyone know how the sending unit seals to the tank? One-time-use goo, gasket, O-ring? I like O-rings.

Additional notes: 75 ohms empty was a Ford spec that, per my research, ended in 1986-87. I am assuming I have this old-style because motor homes are conservative and use older stuff, longer. That being said, I don't want to deal with buying new parts for this thing by guessing it's an E350 van. Fuel tank is a pleasant rectangle, almost like a fuel cell, aft of the rear axle, boxed in by the Ford frame. I "guess" it might be a Ford part, but it could be an aftermarket with the Ford sending unit flange, or it could be a real bastard child since there's an extra nipple for the fuel line for the generator. VIN shows 1990 but title shows 1991.

Also the ticket here is the OTC 6509 for 5/16" and 3/8". I happened to have the 6511 which at least got me the 3/8"

 

[D60]

I went ahead and ordered the Airtex E2060S. I tested it upon arrival and it was indeed 75ohms empty, 10ohms full.

The Airtex does come with a new gasket. Reviews of some others (Carter, maybe?) specifically mentioned a new gasket was not included.

Everything was going way too smoothly and I was foolish enough to think I might get away with zero problems with an aftermarket part. But no, the LAST thing I did was try to slide the electrical plug on and it didn't quite want to go. Either the studs are a slightly larger diameter or the spacing of the three posts was slightly different, or both.

I could feel the plug wanted to go so I grabbed my BABY Simplex and gently tapped it into place. Everything was still working at that point and I didn't dare pull it back apart to see if anything was damaged (ignorance is bliss)

 

[bdcardinal]

The gasket thing always makes me laugh. Maybe 5-6 years ago, Ford stopped including seals with fuel pumps because.... reasons. Of course the price didn't change, and now we have to remember to add a gasket onto the quote.

 

[brianl703]

If it's pre-ODBII, just use the old seal.

Nobody will be the wiser and there's no EVAP monitoring to tattle on you.

(Just kidding!)

 

[D60]

If it's pre-ODBII, just use the old seal.

Nobody will be the wiser and there's no EVAP monitoring to tattle on you.

(Just kidding!)

I know you're mostly jokingly addressing bdcardinal, but in my case the existing seal was good but I used the new one since it was there...and the quality actually appeared good (of course I can't tell if it might rot and crack in 18 months time)

I just recall in some of the reviews I read guys were (understandably) annoyed because they said they had discarded the old gasket assuming the new part would come with one.

 

[D60]

Also how cool is it Ford had the foresight and courtesy to provide an aux line for a genny or heater or whatever? Did GM or Dodge do the same around this time?

I helped my buddy put a gas heater in his '14 AWD Express and we spent the whole day dropping the tank, removing the module, carefully drilling the plastic cap, fitting the provided hard line with o-rings thru the module cap, etc etc