JHZR2
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Just like new!
1981 MB 240D under the valve cover
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Very clean. How many miles on the car and how many miles do you drive it each year?
Thanks for the pics.
Thanks for the pics.
Very nice pictures
Looks great, what is your primary oil & filter?
Show us a pic of the throttle linkage from the hot place.
That's back when timing chains were actually made to last, and not some bicycle-chain equivalent that wears out on oils that have been fine for 35 years...
Looks stout, thanks for the pics! The cam lobes push directly on that hex-headed follower thingie??
Edit: NM, I see the shaft mounted rocker that rides in between them. Interesting!
Looks stout, thanks for the pics! The cam lobes push directly on that hex-headed follower thingie??
Edit: NM, I see the shaft mounted rocker that rides in between them. Interesting!
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
Looks great, what is your primary oil & filter?
I did a bulk buy of Schaeffer's 9000 5w-40 years ago. I do a 2 year OCI.
Originally Posted By: JC1
Very clean. How many miles on the car and how many miles do you drive it each year?
Thanks for the pics.
76k miles, maybe 1k/yr. it's a weekend beach trip car really.
R12 blows cold and it drives nice.
Looks great, what is your primary oil & filter?
I did a bulk buy of Schaeffer's 9000 5w-40 years ago. I do a 2 year OCI.
Originally Posted By: JC1
Very clean. How many miles on the car and how many miles do you drive it each year?
Thanks for the pics.
76k miles, maybe 1k/yr. it's a weekend beach trip car really.
R12 blows cold and it drives nice.
Hey, that looks really nice. Good job maintaining the car!
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Show us a pic of the throttle linkage from the hot place.
Huh??
Show us a pic of the throttle linkage from the hot place.
Huh??
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Timing chain stretch is actually a problem on these.
From the factory they recommended 20w50 and were unclear about specs, so PCMO went in just like it would a gasser benz.
They provided a viscositytemperature chart from the factory.
My 82 300CD got 20w-50 when it lived in socal. When I bought it and drove it cross country it was on 20w-50 and it consumed none the whole trip. They both get 5w-40 now.
Timing chain wear is easily checked one of two ways. None of the cars I've ever owned have needed remediation, but they sell offset keys.
But contrary to popular belief, chains aren't maintenance free, and may well need to be checked/reduced/replaced too.
Timing chain stretch is actually a problem on these.
From the factory they recommended 20w50 and were unclear about specs, so PCMO went in just like it would a gasser benz.
They provided a viscositytemperature chart from the factory.
My 82 300CD got 20w-50 when it lived in socal. When I bought it and drove it cross country it was on 20w-50 and it consumed none the whole trip. They both get 5w-40 now.
Timing chain wear is easily checked one of two ways. None of the cars I've ever owned have needed remediation, but they sell offset keys.
But contrary to popular belief, chains aren't maintenance free, and may well need to be checked/reduced/replaced too.
Looking good!
I like the oil filter setup on thr car also. Do you use OEM filter or...
Thank You in advance
Thank You in advance
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: car51
I like the oil filter setup on thr car also. Do you use OEM filter or...
Thank You in advance
OEM is generally Hengst, Mann or Mahle.
I generally run Mann.
I like the oil filter setup on thr car also. Do you use OEM filter or...
Thank You in advance
OEM is generally Hengst, Mann or Mahle.
I generally run Mann.
NOICE, really clean.
Looks great! Wish i had one of these as a daily driver.
Very nice. I just did the valves on a friend's turbo 300D yesterday, and had mine open for the second time a couple days before that. Apparently the accelerator linkage is much crazier on the turbo 5's.
I've had the same Schaeffer's in mine since acquiring it last fall, and we switched his over from whatever 15w40 his mechanic was using yesterday.
And no, the cam doesn't press directly on the tappet adjuster - there's a little rocker shoe thingy in between the two that pivots off that shaft on the passenger side.
I've had the same Schaeffer's in mine since acquiring it last fall, and we switched his over from whatever 15w40 his mechanic was using yesterday.
And no, the cam doesn't press directly on the tappet adjuster - there's a little rocker shoe thingy in between the two that pivots off that shaft on the passenger side.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
Very nice. I just did the valves on a friend's turbo 300D yesterday, and had mine open for the second time a couple days before that. Apparently the accelerator linkage is much crazier on the turbo 5's.
I've had the same Schaeffer's in mine since acquiring it last fall, and we switched his over from whatever 15w40 his mechanic was using yesterday.
And no, the cam doesn't press directly on the tappet adjuster - there's a little rocker shoe thingy in between the two that pivots off that shaft on the passenger side.
Yeah. Ive had two turbo diesel 300D cars, and currently also have a 300CD turbo.
The 5cyl has more vacuum actuation stuff on the VC, also a bowden cable, but a different cruise control setup and no idle adjustment cable.
Each one is unique. I feel like it was actually harder to move the stuff out of the way on the 616 than the 617.
Very nice. I just did the valves on a friend's turbo 300D yesterday, and had mine open for the second time a couple days before that. Apparently the accelerator linkage is much crazier on the turbo 5's.
I've had the same Schaeffer's in mine since acquiring it last fall, and we switched his over from whatever 15w40 his mechanic was using yesterday.
And no, the cam doesn't press directly on the tappet adjuster - there's a little rocker shoe thingy in between the two that pivots off that shaft on the passenger side.
Yeah. Ive had two turbo diesel 300D cars, and currently also have a 300CD turbo.
The 5cyl has more vacuum actuation stuff on the VC, also a bowden cable, but a different cruise control setup and no idle adjustment cable.
Each one is unique. I feel like it was actually harder to move the stuff out of the way on the 616 than the 617.
Let's ignore the hot glue and butchered vacuum lines.
The accellerator pedal comes in from the firewall/ right side to near the "stop lever" and goes down, telling the ALDA (a smog device) that it wants power. ALDA decides if you're worthy based on a vaccum/ boost signal over an often-clogged vacuum line. This then goes up to the contraption on the valve cover that controls the transmission an "recurves" the throttle tip-in, and goes forward to the cruise control widget and injector pump.
JHZR2
Staff member
Glue repairs are common.
Yes, much more complex than the 616.
But Ive learned after doing valve adjustment on my 240 today, that it's actually easier on the 617 than 616.
On the 616, turning the engine over properly (27mm socket on the crank) is harder!
Harder to remove fan, impossible to remove shroud without a belt and/or hose, deeper pulley to get the socket into, etc.
On my 617s I'd turn them over from the top, no fan or shroud removal, using a breaker bar.
On this one, fan removed, it was tight!
Impossible from the bottom:
And squeezer somehow from the top:
Yes, much more complex than the 616.
But Ive learned after doing valve adjustment on my 240 today, that it's actually easier on the 617 than 616.
On the 616, turning the engine over properly (27mm socket on the crank) is harder!
Harder to remove fan, impossible to remove shroud without a belt and/or hose, deeper pulley to get the socket into, etc.
On my 617s I'd turn them over from the top, no fan or shroud removal, using a breaker bar.
On this one, fan removed, it was tight!
Impossible from the bottom:
And squeezer somehow from the top:
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