1981 280ZX Turbo

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I just purchased a low mileage time capsule 280ZX turbo and am wondering if I should use synthetic in it or am I asking for trouble with the original gaskets and seals?

The car has only 22,000 miles on it and has no leaks from what I can see.

Thanks in advance for all thoughts and opinions.
 
I had a new 1982 non turbo (NA) 280 ZX. The dealer used Castrol GTX 10W-40 I believe. It was a really nice car, too bad a drunk tow truck driver plowed into it and totaled it I was while waiting at a draw bridge. Your's being a turbo and an early one It'd use a HM synthetic 40 weight oil for the extra seal conditioning and the synthetic to protect an early turbo, as they were hard on oil compared to today's turbo engines. Is your's an auto or a 5 speed manual? Good luck and hopefully you enjoy driving it
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Whimsey
 
Simple, effective, synthetic blend (better cold flow), and High Mileage (conditioners for your original seals and gaskets). Plus 10w should do nicely in most temperatures, while the 40 part will play well with the turbo.

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I would recommend Valvoline conventional white bottle 10w30 as another option. Runs great in my 05 car after three oil changes with it.
 
Those are the lightest Nissan OE 4 lug alloy rims I believe. Very nice.

I wouldn't use conventional in a turbo. I feel people are steering you wrong. Synthetic something.. Maybe an A3/B4 (0w40 or 5w40 Euro oil) or Mobil 1 10w30 HM (A3/B3).

*Minnesota: Please don't drive her in the winter. Not as bad as a 240z, but they are close. Lol.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by PimTac
I must not be the only one here that would love to see pictures.


Yes, yes, yes! Pictures, please!

Only 22,000 miles? I'd run a good quality conventional (Pennzoil, Shell, Valvoline) for a couple thousand miles to see if any leaks develop. Then, if it looks solid, step up to a Synthetic version of the conventional. 10w30 or 10w-40 would probably work fine, or even a 5w, considering Winter is coming.
 
Originally Posted by dlundblad
Those are the lightest Nissan OE 4 lug alloy rims I believe. Very nice.

I wouldn't use conventional in a turbo. I feel people are steering you wrong. Synthetic something.. Maybe an A3/B4 (0w40 or 5w40 Euro oil) or Mobil 1 10w30 HM (A3/B3).

*Minnesota: Please don't drive her in the winter. Not as bad as a 240z, but they are close. Lol.



SF 10W30/40 was the orginal spec. The "conventional" on the shelf today are barely compairable to what was available in 1981. SN+ is more shear resistant far less deposits are left behind and volatility is very much improved. Despite the obvious weakness of lubericant limitations of nearly 40 years ago, if the PCMO was changed frequently enough i.e. close to the factory recommendation bodies on these cars gave out before the drive train did. So you may "feel" posters are steering the OP wrong but it is merely your feelings.
 
What about a good synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State Ultimate Durability 10W30? I'm thinking my 77 280Z spec'd 10W30 via owner's manual. I used GTX in mine,but then again,I used GTX in everything back then
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Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by dlundblad
Those are the lightest Nissan OE 4 lug alloy rims I believe. Very nice.

I wouldn't use conventional in a turbo. I feel people are steering you wrong. Synthetic something.. Maybe an A3/B4 (0w40 or 5w40 Euro oil) or Mobil 1 10w30 HM (A3/B3).

*Minnesota: Please don't drive her in the winter. Not as bad as a 240z, but they are close. Lol.



SF 10W30/40 was the orginal spec. The "conventional" on the shelf today are barely compairable to what was available in 1981. SN+ is more shear resistant far less deposits are left behind and volatility is very much improved. Despite the obvious weakness of lubericant limitations of nearly 40 years ago, if the PCMO was changed frequently enough i.e. close to the factory recommendation bodies on these cars gave out before the drive train did. So you may "feel" posters are steering the OP wrong but it is merely your feelings.


I realize oils are better now than back then, but that isn't a good enough reason for me.

If the engine would benefit from a nice synthetic, use it. (It may have even spec'd 20w50 back in the day as well. Not sure.)
 
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