1968 Firebird $27,900 needs lots of work

My best friend has a '68 350, ST-300 with deluxe interior (like the one in the video), un-restored and all there) and a '69 350HO, TH400 un-restored and all there. Both have been garage kept since the 70's and both don't need a lot of work to get them running and presentable.

Both haven't been run since the mid 1990's. I want one of them but he's keeping them for his sons.

There's a handful of RA-III engine parts stashed away in his mother's garage.
 
Several. And a warm engine doesn’t need the choke, or the pedal pumped (which uses the accelerator pump to add a bit of gas).
I probably picked the wrong portion of the OP's post to quote. But in the original post was: "The engine would probably need replacing" and "barely running".

I didn't see any evidence of the engine "barely running" from the video. Carb issues ≠ bad engine. Find 10 carbureted engines in surviving cars from the late 60's to early 80's that don't have these type of issues. Carb issues can be fixed, often inexpensively. I think the judgement that it has a bad engine is a bit premature.

Is the car worth the money asked? Probably not, but I wasn't commenting on that.
 
After the engine is fully warmed up, he still has to pump the pedal before starting it. Add to that the shaking at idle and the general sound of it.
I've owned and driven many carbureted cars. They were all different. Some needed a couple of pumps of fuel when cold, some didn't, some needed you to stay off the throttle for a hot start, some wanted a little gas. You get to know what it needs.

I think the engine sounds fine. It sounds a bit lumpy which is what a good running (higher) performance V8 should sound like. This is not a modern smooth running fuel injected engine.

I watched the first 10 minutes. I like it. It would cost a lot to make it perfect. And there may be rust somewhere which might make a full restoration unfeasible. But you could drive it like it is.
 
Dunno what rock the folks on this thread have been hiding under but these days, 28k isn't even a decent down payment on a house.

This ride certainly ain't perfect, but it's better than most it's age.
🤷‍♂️
 
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There are classic cars that are “100% original” and then there are classic cars that are desirable. “All original “ doesn’t necessarily mean it’s in decent shape. It’s 55 years old. Most likely it’s been through several phases/owners who have made changes. The steering column change out isn’t a deal breaker for most with minimal mechanical ability. IDIDIT sells direct replacement steering columns. The harder conversion to a 4 speed “desirable “ (clutch linkage, shifter location, and trans-clutch) has been done. Looks like it has the lower rung Holley carb. They are notorious for needing constant adjustments. Late timing can cause hard starting. Easy to make these adjustments and carb change if needed. Most will live with headliner and drum brakes. A starting price is a starting point. Walk onto the lot and lay down 19k cash and I’d bet your driving that Bird home.
 
^
What would you value the car at bullwinkle?
Non-original, far from correct, pieced together-but, it is a looker, probably $15K or so. Surprised nobody mentioned the likelihood of a fairly radical cam in that 350, which would explain the lopey idle (& the fact it has a 4 speed in place of the POS Super Turbine 300 [which would have had a BOP bolt pattern & not fit a 350 SBC anyway]). I had a '67 Firebird for a while long ago, with a 326 Pontiac 2 barrel & the 2 speed auto-it was kind of junk, but it idled better than this one does-I think a previous owner stuffed a cam in this one. And, yes, Holleys are a PITA...
 
Yeah silicone on the front of engine and craigslist rebuild on the engine does point to possible cam swap... but it might just need some tuning...

Id probably like it better with the side trim and original Cameo Ivory.
 
I love me some Firechickens, but wow $27,900!? That’s high! Looks good from a distance, but it doesn’t look like a quality paint job was done. Just masking around the chrome trim and emblems is already a big no no for me. All that should be removed during the prep prior to paint. Plus the bubbling. You’d better check it thoroughly for rust. Bottom of the doors, quarters, and windshields. Bring a magnet and soft thin microfiber rag so you can check for bondo.
 
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