1966 327 Flat Tappet Valvoline Restore and Protect?

Pennzoil motor oil
TacoFergie

TacoFergie

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Sioux City
I'm going to be working on my father in-laws 66 C-10 soon with the original 220hp 327. It is completely stock and will remain stock. Can Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 be used in this engine without harm to flat tappet lifters and cam? From my research it seems like it would be more than adequate since it doesn't have a high lift cam and stiffer valve springs. But I wanted to consult the hive mind first. I recall watching Lake Speeds video discussing modern oils being well up to the task for non-high performance flat tappet engines. I mainly want to use it because it's generally a great oil and will clean it up if it needs it, certainly can't hurt. I know the engine ran very well a few years ago when he got it and was mechanically very quiet. We don't know if it's an oil burner or anything like that, I don't think the engine even leaks oil.
 
TacoFergie said:
I'm going to be working on my father in-laws 66 C-10 soon with the original 220hp 327. It is completely stock and will remain stock. Can Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 be used in this engine without harm to flat tappet lifters and cam? From my research it seems like it would be more than adequate since it doesn't have a high lift cam and stiffer valve springs. But I wanted to consult the hive mind first. I recall watching Lake Speeds video discussing modern oils being well up to the task for non-high performance flat tappet engines. I mainly want to use it because it's generally a great oil and will clean it up if it needs it, certainly can't hurt. I know the engine ran very well a few years ago when he got it and was mechanically very quiet. We don't know if it's an oil burner or anything like that, I don't think the engine even leaks oil.
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Should be fine, given the weak stock springs and already broken-in camshaft.
 
Zinc, or ZDDP, or whatever it's called, is a consumable, so a shorter OCI won't hurt. Regardless, there must be millions of pre-roller cam engines out there running fine on 10w30 or whatever. I used to run Rotella T in my 2 classics but now use the Castrol stuff.

I hafta believe that Chevy engine will love Valvoline Restore and Protect.
 
JeffKeryk said:
Zinc, or ZDDP, or whatever it's called, is a consumable, so a shorter OCI won't hurt. Regardless, there must be millions of pre-roller cam engines out there running fine on 10w30 or whatever. I used to run Rotella T in my 2 classics but now use the Castrol stuff.

I hafta believe that Chevy engine will love Valvoline Restore and Protect.
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That's kinda what I'm thinking. I'd be surprised if we'd put more than 3-4k miles on it in the summer months once I get the powerglide to stop leaking and go through the truck mechanically. He's got 3 other classic trucks to put miles on also, this one will probably just hang out at my place since it'll eventually be handed down to my wife. I get to be his mechanic on all 4 of the old trucks. haha, not a bad gig!
 
Valvoline Restore and Protect will be absolutely fine in your stock vintage motor. ZDDP is not the only anti-wear additive used as it also has plenty of moly and boron in addition to the the zinc and phosphorous compounds.

F

Thread 'Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 VOA'

Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30
Manufactured in 2024
API SP
ILSAC GF-6A

I mailed the sample to Oil Analyzers Indianapolis on Monday and received the report by Saturday. On my submission form I did not include product brand or information. Only product viscosity grade.

VOA_Valvoline_R&P_5w30.webp
  • Like
  • Helpful
 
SOUNDMAN5000 said:
My 2 cents... If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Mineral based Valvoline VR1, 1 gallon $26 at Walmart...
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This☝🏻. I had my 72 C10 original 76k SBC cam go flat I believe because of the oil I was running. I was running Quaker state two- full synthetic, which is think has around 850 zinc. Is that the reason it went flat, I don’t know but I can’t think of any other cause other than that. Valvoline VR1 has around 1200-1300, I’ll be running that in my chevelle moving forward. Food for thought
 
sru1436 said:
This☝🏻. I had my 72 C10 original 76k SBC cam go flat I believe because of the oil I was running. I was running Quaker state two- full synthetic, which is think has around 850 zinc. Is that the reason it went flat, I don’t know but I can’t think of any other cause other than that. Valvoline VR1 has around 1200-1300, I’ll be running that in my chevelle moving forward. Food for thought
Click to expand...
Something to me feels all warm and cozy when it states on the bottle what its designed for...
Racing & Classic Cars, Specially Designed for Push-Road & Flat-Tappet Engines...
If not VR-1 Perhaps Penngrade 1?
flat tap.webp
 
sru1436 said:
This☝🏻. I had my 72 C10 original 76k SBC cam go flat I believe because of the oil I was running. I was running Quaker state two- full synthetic, which is think has around 850 zinc. Is that the reason it went flat, I don’t know but I can’t think of any other cause other than that. Valvoline VR1 has around 1200-1300, I’ll be running that in my chevelle moving forward. Food for thought
Click to expand...
It's the phosphorous, not the zinc, that's the AW part of the compound. And it is the phosphorous that is restricted by the API for grades xW-30 and below (there is no restriction on it in the xW-40 and above grades).
SOUNDMAN5000 said:
Something to me feels all warm and cozy when it states on the bottle what its designed for...
Racing & Classic Cars, Specially Designed for Push-Road & Flat-Tappet Engines...
If not VR-1 Perhaps Penngrade 1?
View attachment 339841
Click to expand...
I see Valvoline knows how to lean into the "THEY TOOK MA ZINC!!!" mythos. Smart.
 
I know I personally would not use restore and protect in a 1960's anything thats not leaking oil but thats me and my 2 cents, I know its a dirty word but I had the thought wonder what AI would say as thats kinda a "hive mind I would guess" Well I searched
Valvoline Restore and Protect in a classic car? The AI response ain't pretty... I do understand the idea of cleaning the inside but is that the thing to do to a 50 year old engine? Y'all may know more than me?

On a side note, IF I had a classic car I could buy, just one, it would be a late 60's C-10 with a 327.
Main reason is going back to 1982 my first year in High School that one kid had one with that 327 ( I had moms old 74 Toyota ) and as a very young kid my neighbor had a a 62 -64 Impala with the 327 logo with the racing flag on the side. At 7 or 8 I knew nothing about engines or cars but I know that 327 logo on the side suggested something was special and his car would pull the heck out of his fishing boat and sound good doing it when he took me fishing...

I just sold the Hellcat, perhaps time for a classic soon?
 
SOUNDMAN5000 said:
I know I personally would not use restore and protect in a 1960's anything thats not leaking oil but thats me and my 2 cents,
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It depends on the application. A 220HP 327 (0.67HP per cubic inch, and that's SAE GROSS HP) is going to have a broomstick cam and weak valve springs. On top of that, the lifters and cam are already broken-in, which is the main concern when considering ZDDP levels.

Would I run Valvoline Restore and Protect in a vintage BOSS 302? not a chance. I run higher phosphorous lubes in both my HEMI's, as you know. But the valvetrain AW demands in this application, given the low power density, should be similar to higher spinning cam-over-bucket applications for which Valvoline Restore and Protect is approved, so I see this exercise as being very low risk.

These are the specs I'm finding for the stock cam:
1780070414883.webp


202 duration on a 116 LCA with .390/.409 lift at the valve.

Stock springs appear to be installed at 83lbs, open pressure is 193lbs.

In comparison, a stock 351W FT cam from 1992:
1780070836077.webp


221 duration, 113 LCA, .444/.452 lift at the valve.

Stock intake springs are installed at 78lbs, open pressure is 204lbs.

The old Windsor (albeit, having a superior lubrication system than the SBC), is just fine on current API oils, there are still many of them running around and it has a more aggressive cam and higher open pressures.

If we were talking a higher performance application, my opinion as to the level of risk involved would shift accordingly.
 
SOUNDMAN5000 said:
Something to me feels all warm and cozy when it states on the bottle what its designed for...
Racing & Classic Cars, Specially Designed for Push-Road & Flat-Tappet Engines...
If not VR-1 Perhaps Penngrade 1?
View attachment 339841
Click to expand...
I absolutely understand where you're coming from. I may just go that route. Maybe frankenbrew it with 1qt VR1 20w50 and the rest Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 to bump up the viscosity and zinc? I believe its a 5qt capacity, but won't know till we pull it out of storage.

My counter point to this and leaning towards what @OVERKILL is saying is my FiL also has a 57 Chevy 3100 with a 265 inline 6 that he dumps whatever 5w30 or 10w30 in that's laying around, same with his 71 F100 390. Both have flat tappet lifters as well. Is it right? I don't know? But neither has had any mechanical issues besides the 390 having bad valve stem seals which we fixed last summer. That 57 is unrestored with unknown history but is completely stock 261 (which may have been swapped in because I believe that was only for the 5100's) as far as I can tell when I did a valve adjustment and resealed the side cover.

A little backstory to the 66. FiL picked it up about 4-5 years ago. Ran and drove but the transmission leaked really bad, so not drivable for any real distance. Last I remember it was from the front side of the transmission, so maybe front pump seal? Not sure yet. I plan on getting it out of storage next week to get it road worthy at least so it doesn't just sit there being unused. Afterall, keeping them moving keeps them in better mechanical condition just like us humans. It's all original, black on black long bed, 327, powerglide with factory AC and power steering. Quite a rare set of options as the 327 was first in a truck in 1966. Body is decent, I think the cab floor had a small hole in it and the bed needs a new floor. But first I want to get it road worthy. In the picture is his 49 Chevy that's mid restoration. He built a house a couple years ago and we're just now getting back on the old trucks. He's got 4 old truck and 4 kids, each kid will get one when he decides to pass them on. He is restoring each one to a nice driver, nothing over the top. Any add-ons is on the receiving kids dime, for instance I'll probably do different rear gears or an OD transmission on my own dime. I think I've put more miles on the 57 and 71 as his free mechanic than even he has. He has a 49 Chevy truck, 57 Chevy Truck, 66 Chevy Truck and the 71 Ford Truck. The 66 is going to be my wife's.

This is the best picture I have so far.
IMG_0565.webp
 
JeffKeryk said:
If I ever pull my '68 Vette or '65 442 engines apart again, I will stab a hydraulic roller and be done with it.
Click to expand...

I would do the same thing for this truck. Although, it's unlikely I'll ever tear into this engine. If something happens to this engine where I need to remove it, I'll probably put a more modern engine in with fuel injection. At least that's the idea now, who knows if or when that time would come if I'd have the same thought. I really dislike working on carburetors. If they're tuned well, they're fantastic. But I have never had luck with tuning them myself. Right now I know some older guys that are good with them, but later in life those old heads may not be around.
 
TacoFergie said:
I would do the same thing for this truck. Although, it's unlikely I'll ever tear into this engine. If something happens to this engine where I need to remove it, I'll probably put a more modern engine in with fuel injection. At least that's the idea now, who knows if or when that time would come if I'd have the same thought. I really dislike working on carburetors. If they're tuned well, they're fantastic. But I have never had luck with tuning them myself. Right now I know some older guys that are good with them, but later in life those old heads may not be around.
Click to expand...
EFI is easier now than ever. But stabbing a cam is a few hours work on a PU with a SB Chevy. And you could use a nice mid-range cam that would offer a nice flat torque curve. I'd do it.
 
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