1950 Ford Custom 239 Cu. In flathead V8

[pogobill]

New to the forum and I have been reading a lot of posts on different oils and the variety of applications. Interesting stuff, so I thought I would join up and throw a few questions out there myself.
I am running my flathead 8 with a 30W non detergent oil as the last owner did as well, The spec in the manual calls for 20W summer time. I don't put a lot of miles on it, maybe 1000 a year, and I change the oil once a year. I don't use any additives, and I use premium gas with no ethanol. I'll slip a bit of fuel stabilizer in with each fill up just to make sure the gas doesn't go bad on me.
Question.... is there something I could be doing better? I don't want to risk switching to a multi grade detergent oil for fear of gumming up the oil system. I do have the 1950 8BA with the oil filter.
Question.... I read a post somewhere that a fellow started weaning his flathead off of the non detergent by substituting one liter of detergent oil (15w40 I believe) at oil change, increased the oil changes and increased the amount of detergent oil with the changes until he found his oil to be somewhat clean, then stayed with the new oil. Is that something that would be feasible?
Cheers
Bill

 

[4wheeldog]

Not knowing how many miles/years you have on the vehicle, it is hard to recommend anything other than pulling the valve covers and the pan, and doing a manual cleaning before you switch to modern oil. The concern would be the detergent oil might get enough "Stuff" moving to block the oil pickup screen.

Is the oil you are using truly non detergent? I have not seen any of that for 30 years or more. If it is just low detergent, I don't think you would have any issue changing over, with just a couple of short OCIs to get any accumulated crud out.

 

[Charlie1935]

What valve covers?

 

[15SilvyEcotec]

Originally Posted By: Charlie1935
What valve covers?


So true LOL

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: Charlie1935
What valve covers?


Good point.....LIFTER covers, then!

On second thought, cleaning out under the intake would probably be more important than anything else, anyway.

 

[Michael_P]

Ive used 15W40 or 5W40 in my Farmall for years with no problems. Currently there is Rotella T 5W40 in it. The breather always looks squeaky clean. Since there is no filter, oil gets changed once a year. Most flatheads are low revving, low HP with light valve springs. From my experience which includes one used oil analysis, they are easy on oil. The used oil analysis showed higher high iron (30ppm IIRC) than I'm used to seeing, but that is normal for these engines with no oil filter. I would think the additive package with anti wear additives could only benefit the engine.

BTW: Pull the "covers" off of a flathead and you see valves. Pull the "covers" off of an OHV or an OHC and you are lucky to see a small percentage of the stems. Therefore, the term "valve cover could be correct. However, there is no oil up there, just carbon. The term valve cover was coined with flathead engines.

 

[mazdamonky]

If the engine has not been rebuilt, I would think about some type of leaded additive for the fuel. other than that, I don't see much problem with slowly migrating to a normal style oil.

 

[Charlie1935]

Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Ive used 15W40 or 5W40 in my Farmall for years with no problems. Currently there is Rotella T 5W40 in it. The breather always looks squeaky clean. Since there is no filter, oil gets changed once a year. Most flatheads are low revving, low HP with light valve springs. From my experience which includes one used oil analysis, they are easy on oil. The used oil analysis showed higher high iron (30ppm IIRC) than I'm used to seeing, but that is normal for these engines with no oil filter. I would think the additive package with anti wear additives could only benefit the engine.

BTW: Pull the "covers" off of a flathead and you see valves. Pull the "covers" off of an OHV or an OHC and you are lucky to see a small percentage of the stems. Therefore, the term "valve cover could be correct. However, there is no oil up there, just carbon. The term valve cover was coined with flathead engines.


On Ford flathead V8s the intake manifold covered the tappet (lifter) and valve stem and cam. Never heard it called any kind of cover.

 

[pogobill]

Well, I don't have valve covers, but I suspect that I'd find sludge if I removed to intake manifold. I know the oil pan has sludge in it. If I can get myself a new pan gasket I may pull the pan and clean it out.

 

[roadrunner1]

Your oil pan should have an inspection cover in the center of the pan, its located directly under the oil pick-up strainer. No need to run a ND, this is the 21st century. I have two that has had a steady diet of 15w40 for at least 25 years.

Going back in time my dad insisted on using ND 30 in our flatheads, we switched them over first to an 30 wt HDEO, as that was what our diesels were using. When we switched everything over to 15w40 the flatheads received the same.

I did pull the inspection cover off of one once, it was clean with very little buildup. As you probably already know the idle oil pressure during the summer can be scary. I actually did try a 20w-50 once, but cold starts with a 6 volt system proved to tough. 15w40 has been the best compromise, enjoy the truck!

 

[Michael_P]

Charlie, the correct term is cylinder head, but it covers the valves.

 

[Charlie1935]

Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Charlie, the correct term is cylinder head, but it covers the valves.


It also covers the pistons.
In my younger days I had several flatheads and ran some dirt track stock cars with them.

 

[Michael_P]

That's before my time, but I would have loved to see it. All those Offenhauser and Edelbrock valve covers

. That would have been cool.

 

[BrocLuno]

BIL still has a 49 F-1 with a flattie

My first car was a '52 Vicky

We ran flattie 6's in farm trucks for decades. The orchard Jeeps still have flat 4's. And I have run/built/re-built a LOT of Chris Craft and Interceptor flat head 6 marine engines.

I'd get modern oil in there ASAP. I'd be adding 8 oz of Kreen per oil change (KANO Labs). I'd get a by-pass filter on that motor if you can.

Flatties are fun. Good torque from the long rod configuration and they sound cool with dual exhausts

But oils have come a long way since the day. I'd run HDEO just like the other fellows suggest. Delo400 or Delvac for me. But even Tractor Supply Traveler Oil would be such a giant step up from non-detergent as far as lubrication capability, it's not even a contest ...

Most current ND oil is pretty poor. Back in the day, it was not so. There were premium ND oils. We have not had those in decades

I you have to run a ND oil for whatever reason, the best of the current crop are premium 2-cycle oils. Get Quicksilver injector oil, or Golden Spectro 2-cycle oil instead of any parts store or Walmart available ND oil... The absolute best, would be Motul 710, but you'd be out $17/L to get it here in the States ...