Then I am glad to give you a chuckle.I laugh at most of your posts, so
Then I am glad to give you a chuckle.I laugh at most of your posts, so
It seems that we are comparing 0w40 and 5w40 "synthetics" to conventional 10w40s.The MB 229.5x and Porsche A40 Certs assure high performance with a ACEA HIGH MARGINAL 30 grade lubricant.
API donut - or none - on the 10W40 only assure the most basic requirements are met.
True they are VM laden and I would prefer a high HTHS 30 grade - but the A40 is nicely laden
- Ken
Does that apply to the rest of the world, or just the Americas?American 10W-40s are inferior to European A3/B4 10W-40s , many of which carry decent approvals like MB 229.3 etc.
All the Sequence tests include a foaming tendency and stability evaluation per a standard ASTM test. And at different temperatures.I understand to a degree everything being said about foaming and HDEO etc, but specifically back to the OP - if the oil has a SN rating - isn't there some minimum level of anti-foaming additives?
Or are API ratings sort of like Chinese stamps of quality?
I am sorry for my unacceptable Eurocentrist attitudeDoes that apply to the rest of the world, or just the Americas?
Some call that Euro snobbery and fantasies of the masters race.
Maybe someday the colonies will have 10w40s "many of which (will/might) carry decent approvals like MB 229.3 etc."
Porsche back in the aircooled days in the 60s/70s/80s used HDEOs from the factory iirc.Guess I'm old school. I would never use a diesel oil in a gas engine. Even dual rated. Different formulations for different applications (fuel used, rpm's, etc). With the plethora of gas engine formulated oils on the market, what's the use?
I'm just trying to use the excess 15w40 up... when I get down to an acceptable oil hoard I will be back to 5w30 in the Nissan.I tried 15W40 in a Subaru EJ - and engine that could handle it. It was too thick ( high HTHS ~4.3 cP) and the motor didn't like it generally - mileage, response and drive-ability dropped WAY off..
I would run a 10W30. QS full synthetic 10W30 is my go to Spring thru Fall in 20 grade spec vehicles.
Stay FAR AWAY from typical high VM laden 10W40.
The move into a a higher HTHS oil should be a 5w30 Euro oil or a marginal 30 grade lubricant such as ACEA 0W40 or 5W40 like M1 FS or other Euro equivalents with MB and Porsche certs,
KV100 doesn't matter, the in situ resultant HTHS is whats boss.
I'm not worried about it... just wanted to see and read the responses .. FWIW the car just got a dose of 15w40 and a new filter.. I should have used up my excess supply of HDEO by the next go round.You'll be fine, I would use it without a worry. Also if you see a perceivable difference in mileage I would be shocked. No worry about warranty as in my 40 years working at new car dealerships not once was an engine replacement contingent on oil viscosity grade, just lack of oil changes.
You don't think it's a good idea BUT we're talking about dual rated oils. The ones rated for Gasoline Engines. Some up to SN+ I've seen. Also, not all 15w40 oils are formulated with high concentrations of converter damaging additives. One of the Delo oils I use as an example often.I don't think it's a good idea using 15w-40 and having a catalytic converter.