15W-40 or 5W-40 Synthetic?

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59Vetteman's truck air induction looks to be using warm to hot under hood air.
Cold air induction would be better..
My '85 Diesel sucked the combustion air from a plastic enclosure/box tucked under the RS fender; this worked, but I did worry (needlessly) about water being splashed in..
 
One more Question then I'll shhhh! for a while.

I dought the Pressure control company has ever added anything to the Fuel Tanks besides Diesel.

Is there any product that i need to ad to the diesel...Such as Fuel Power? Which i buy every 6 months for my other autos!

I know once it gets cold ya add an anti-gel additive.

But any other additive for routine maintances?
 
I dyno'd my personal truck with the stock air box, Banks and the Donaldson (AIS from Ford is made by Donaldson and sold under a variety of labels, save some money and buy it from the Donaldson dealer). Not much difference between them, about 5hp give a take - depending on the ambient temp that the dyno pulls were made.

I now have the Donaldson setup because I think it filters better and it did outflow the stock Ford part (according to the dyno). Since the truck has a charge air cooler the benefits of a cold air intake are not nearly as dramatic as seen on gas pots.

Your truck has one of several possible diffs. Single tire trucks came with a Sterling 10.5 and dually came with Dana 80's (a few dually’s may have the Sterling 10.5 as well). There maybe a few exceptions, however most common are the Sterling 10.5 with 3.73's. The only way to get lower than 3.73 is to order a dually (then you get 4.10's) or a F-450/550 which you could get up to 5.38. In the F550 (F450 as well starting in 2003) you could get a Dana 135 in the rear. The F550's at work all get ordered with 5.38's save for one with 4.88's. These were all, except the Dana 135, factory filled with syn gear oil starting in 98 I believe.

The exhaust is the best bang for the buck I think. The stock exhaust is restrictive and is mild steel. Good aftermarket, like really liked the Banks version, are stainless and mandrel bent. With no other mods you will notice some difference with just the new tubes, and it will make a big difference if, down the road, you do add a chip.

Patrick
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Thanks again Patrick:
I have already sent an e-mail to Jody about a chip...Sent him all my info.

The exhaust will come first, then the Air intake system, then the chip last.

Well im sure the rearend on this truck is the standard issue, which is the Sterling and the 3.73's which is fine.

I just had hopes I was lucky and had a limited Slip diff.

I have a 2 wheel drive GMC 3/4 ton with the limited Slip rearend and it is amazing sometimes. Really helps in snow and ice.

I will find out once i get it up on the lift and change fluid. In both front and rear.

Thanks again to all of U.
 
I love 5w-40 delvac, and have had great success in all my diesels (MB diesels, though the older OM617 was designed for truck service long ago).

Be sure to use a good additive, and get a used oil analysis to determine how the soot loads in your oil. Beyond 2% loading, wear increases exponentially.

Good luck!

JMH
 
"Be sure to use a good additive, and get a used oil analysis to determine how the soot loads in your oil. Beyond 2% loading, wear increases exponentially."

What type of Additive?

I'm beginning to think i need some kind of college degree to Maintain my New Truck!
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fuel power is a good one!

You can get power service, which is decent, or the chevron delo additive.

I loved rotella DFA, it was the only additive that gave a statistically significant fuel economy boost. Alas, they dont make it any more
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JMH
 
Your truck could very well have a limited slip. I didn't mention, but all of those diffs could be ordered with limited slip. There is a good chance that your truck does have a limited slip since it was ordered as an "off-road" work truck.

I wouldn't worry about used oil analysis too much. It would be nice to take a few since it is a high mileage engine, it would tell you if there is something major developing. The 7.3 PSD did not have much of a soot problem typically. A good HDEO with reasonable drains will not have a soot loading problem. I change my Delo at 4000, which is way too early, and there is almost nothing present in the oil (via used oil analysis). I think you could double that OCI without a problem.

Patrick
 
The reason I asked about the limited slip, is I know how much a limited slip helps in a 2 wheel drive.

I can only imagine what it would be like in a 4 wheel drive. Makes me drool just thinking about it.

Yes I will either use Delo or Rotella T depending what our goofy walmart can keep in stock.

I also just thought of a Huge truck stop outside of town that might keep both in stock. But maybe at double the price. this is the place i will get my fuel. They told me they have a diesel Fuel truck there every Mon&Fri so I know I won't be getting month old Diesel.

ya know makes a fella wonder about the future of Diesel?

Thanks again Fellas
 
Wow! You sure did get an awesome price on that truck. I would have bought that in a second!!! I loved my 2001 F350 with the Powerstroke diesel. I just used regular Shell Rotella T 15w40 in it and it was fine.

Have a quality rebuild of the trans done so it will hold more power. You may want to look into a new torque converter. The transmission is the first to go when adding power. My truck was around 29-31psi at WOT with my 4 position chip (max of 160rwhp addition and **** did it rip). Had a 4" downpipe with 5" exhaust and I just cut up the factory airbox for better flow.

I would also use FP60 every with every tank in your truck. It worked wonders in mine.

I have a new Duramax Diesel truck now and I will be using Schaeffers #700 15w40. I have never heard anything bad about it so it is worth a shot.

[ January 02, 2006, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: Intelman34 ]
 
i personally would stick with an off the shelve 15w40 conventional oil like rotella, delo, delvac 1300, pennzoil long life and change it every 5000 miles. i would be disappointed if that engine did not last another 150k to 200k miles. dont forget the other maintenance.
 
I will change the oil every 5k to 8K miles.
Until I absolutely have to have a rebuild.

Then after the rebuild. I will switch to Schaeffers and a bypass filter and go too a 10K mile OCI.

I have a feeling though I will get another 5 yrs out of the F250 anyway {Easy}.

My Maintance scheduale is second to none.
So the truck will be treated like a King!

The only Mods I'm doing to the 7.3L will be a 4" exhaust and a Jody Tipton Chip... The AIS Air system is on its way.

Now the Body and interior are a different Story.

Yes The Price I payed for this truck is like a dream come true for a blue collar worker such as myself.

They company payed 42K for the truck new. {2001}.
it's 5 yrs old with 250K miles.

And the visit to the Mechanic shops shows nothing major wrong anywhere.

So I feel I stole the truck.
Time will tell now.

Thanks too all U fellas... I'm learning more about the PSD everyday.
 
fwiw my neighbors 7.3 would tell you when it needed new oil by starting to idle rough when hot. As the story went (the dealers) the oil gets where it foams in the hydralic acutated injectors and doesn't get a good spray. In his case the solution was new oil and it was fixed. Of course the dealer insisted the motocraft oil had the right stuff in it to resist this tendancy. He tried a lot of different oils and it didn't really seem to matter. Being hypersensitive to the run quality this cost him a bunch of money (those things hold a lot of oil!). Got to the point where he just ignored it and drove on.
 
With a good oil and reasonable OCI the truck should never have a rough idle when warm. This would indicate that the injector orings are bypassing some pressure at idle. This is common with higher milage HEUI injectors, even in CAT (who developed the HEUI fuel system, including that used of the 7.3PSD, the 6.0PSD uses a digital HEUI injector that was developed by a separate firm with no ties to CAT).

In the PSD fleet at work, about 110-120k they would start to develope a bad idle. I just got in the habit of re-oring'ing at 100k when a lot of the add on equipment need attention anyway.

Patrick
 
Good info Pat I'll pass it on. Can we assume these the same orings that would cause fuel dillution in the oil, and how much work to change them out? thanks
 
It depends on which oring is allowing the bypass, but yes it can cause fuel dilution in the oil. The factory Ford DVD manual shows a pretty good cut away of the injector so you can see the internal valveing and the external oring locations. It'd be better to hold one in your hand and look at it, but that's not always possible.

To change the orings you need to pull the valve covers to get to the injectors. You’ll have to pull the injectors out of the head. Remember to use plenty of lube when you reinstall the injector – don’t want to get it back together and find out you cut an oring!! To do that you need to remove the Charge air cooler tubes. When you have the valve cover off it's a good idea to replace the valve cover gasket. The glow plug and injector harness is built into the gasket. When the glow plugs get old they tend to pull more amps. In good condition they pull about 10 amps each (total of 80 amps). When they are old it increases, and then you lose one, now 7 glow plugs are pulling 15 amps each. Bad news for the valve cover gasket harness. It melts the connector (remember the injector harness also goes through the gasket connector) and grounds an injector. And since they don’t run very well with one (or more) completely dead cylinders, well you stop:thumbsdown: . Then you call me to come and tow you to your favorite repair facility
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I should have said in the above post that as long as there is no fuel dilution, the leaky orings shouldn't be a real problem. You will see less power and less fuel mileage. The ECU matches flow on the injectors to the lowest flowing unit, thus the good injectors will only perform as well as the weakest. This is why off idle the truck seems to run fine. In fact many PSD owners are driving with an engine that has been defueled by as much as 25% without realizing there is a problem. Due to their nature as a HD engine, CAT huei systems do not compensate quite as much as the PSD, but they are self correcting to a point as well. Hope this helps,

Patrick
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Ok Norm! Is there a place on the net that I can go to see what those codes mean?

Thats kinda what I was asking.
 
31 — 3.73 non-limited slip, F-250/Excursion
C1 — 3.73 limited slip, F-250/Excursion
32 — 4.10 non-limited slip, F-250
C2 — 4.10 limited slip, F-250/Excursion
33 — 4.30 non-limited slip, F-250
C3 — 4.30 limited slip, F-250/Excursion
36 — 4.56 non-limited slip, F-250
C6 — 4.56 limited slip, F-250
41 — 3.73 non-limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
D1 — 3.73 limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
42 — 4.10 non-limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
D2 — 4.10 limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
43 — 4.30 non-limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
D3 — 4.30 limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
46 — 4.56 non-limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
D6 — 4.56 limited slip, F-350 (single rear wheels)
F1 — 3.73 limited slip, F-350 (dual rear wheels)
62 — 4.10 non-limited slip, F-350 (dual rear wheels)
63 — 4.30 non-limited slip, F-350 (dual rear wheels)
66 — 4.56 non-limited slip, F-350 (dual rear wheels)
F6 — 4.56 limited slip, F-350 (dual rear wheels)
81 — 3.73 non-limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
E1 — 3.73 limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
82 — 4.10 non-limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
E2 — 4.10 limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
83 — 4.30 non-limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
E3 — 4.30 limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
86 — 4.56 non-limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
E6 — 4.56 limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
88 — 4.88 non-limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)


Sorry about the format, the above is directly from the service manual.

Patrick
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