$1300 brake job on a Charger SRT8. = ???!!!

[mrsilv04]

Best friend has a 2007 Charger SRT8. At 23,000 miles, it needs brakes on all four corners. The dealer wants $1300 to do it (pads and rotors) with Mopar parts.... or $900 if the parts come from the AutoZone next door to the dealership.

Seems awful pricey. I'm seeing about $350 worth of parts at AutoZone, which for starters, I'd never use on a car like this. There's something about the thought of putting Duralast rotors on a car like this, that makes my stomach turn.

Where's the rest of that $900 coming from?

My reaction is that he needs to find an independent mechanic who knows what he's doing, and tell the dealer "no thanks".

Personally, I'd be finding a good mechanic, and have him getting the parts from some place like Summit Racing, and pass up on OEM parts and AutoZone parts... and spend the same $900... and end up with a brake job with some really good components.

 

[The motor guy]

Why does it already need brakes at only 23,000 miles? I have 32,000 miles on my vehicle and still have 70% pad life. And there is lots of stop in go driving in that 32,000 miles. Somethings not right. I can see 350 dollars for pads but not the autozone brand.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Brake job with 4 rotors and 2 set of pads should be $400-500 for good quality parts. I bought all parts online and have my mechanic put on for $110-120 labor for 4 corners.

 

[mrsilv04]

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Why does it already need brakes at only 23,000 miles?


Apparently the factory brake pads are Brembos, and are soft and thin.

 

[HyundaiGuy]

Actually, as gross as this sounds it seems percentage wise right inline with my dealer. They want $129 to replace 4 platinum spark plugs on my Accent. No thanks, did it myself.

My last 3 cars were two BMWs and a Porsche. I loved my first BMW and still miss it. When my sister was looking for a used car, she called me and asked about my BMW. My advice? Get a pre purchase inspection and find a good independent mechanic. She bought the car (a 3 Series newer than mine) and some time later called me screaming bloody murder about the bill for the 60,000 mile service- $4,000. I kid you not. I knew she went to the dealer, and called her on it. She admitted that yes, she had not looked for a reputable independent. She found one after that and was happy- she still uses the independent shop.

Your friend needs a good independent shop.

 

[hypervish]

Help your friend a good independent shop, and he won't be getting raped.

Maybe, order the parts from rock auto or elsewhere and then take them to a few shops around him and see which one gives the best quote for installation.

 

[VNTS]

Tell your lazy friend to get off his butt and jack it up and swap a new set of pads on front and rear and be done with it.

He can get some Wagner severe duty pads for about 100$ and be done with it.

I doubt he needs rotors but again he can get some good wagners for about 90$ a pop from Rock auto.

 

[rpn453]

I guess if you're going to compete in 24 hour endurance races, you're going to wear those things out early! Seriously though, that's the only way I could see those Brembo rotors being shot at such low mileage, especially if the pads are soft enough to be done already.

 

[Eddie]

Maybe he abused the brakes severely with only 23K on them. My Dodges usually get 60-70,000 on a set of OEM pads and never needed rotors. If he over heated the brake system and it needs pads & rotors and maybe calipers then the price is not too bad IMO. I do my own and the labor is free but, don't expect a shop, who has a certified brake mechanic to work for free.

 

[Mr Nice]

$4000 is very reasonable for 60,000 mile service for a BMW

 

[HyundaiGuy]

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
$4000 is very reasonable for 60,000 mile service for a BMW




You are kidding right? My 60,000 was done on my BMW at an independent for less than $900.

 

[fdcg27]

"Hey, watch me reel this guy in"
"No, he won't go for it"
"Just watch"
$1300.00?
At 23K, I doubt the thing needs anything more than new pads.
Good quality pads are not that expensive.
This should be a simple driveway job.
Three hours at a relaxed pace.
How did this guy go through a set of pads in only 23K?

 

[mrsilv04]

Someone with an SRT.... Is there anything special about this system? Are there any special tools needed to replace the pads and rotors?

 

[01rangerxl]

Unless the rotors are warped I see no reason to replace them. If it were mine I'd just do a pad slap at home and call it done.

 

[mrsilv04]

Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Unless the rotors are warped I see no reason to replace them. If it were mine I'd just do a pad slap at home and call it done.


The dealer claimed that they'd squeal if he didn't replace the rotors... at 23,000 miles.

Of course, though... this car is his baby... and the dealer knows it.

I just put a set of pads on the front of a 95,000 mile '99 Park Avenue. The rotors are the ones that it rolled off of the assembly line with, and were turned once at 46,000 miles. No problems.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Why does it already need brakes at only 23,000 miles?


Apparently the factory brake pads are Brembos, and are soft and thin.


My STI comes with Brembos and I've still got plenty of meat left on 'em after 42,000 miles. I tend to engine brake as much as possible and only use my brakes when necessary, but maybe your buddy has a more aggressive approach to driving!

As has been mentioned, brakes aren't hard at all to do. My very first brake job was on a Ford Focus, after being told it would cost $600 for just the rear rotors and pads. I replaced all four corners for a few hundred in my buddy's gravel driveway.

With respect to Rotors, check the min thickness stamped on the rotor itself. At least for the STI's, it's an accepted that rotors generally don't last through more than one set of pads. I think the min thickness is 18mm on mine, and I've seen most be right around this when the pads are done. I'm sure turning the lip off the rotor and running it through another set or pads might be fine, but why risk it?

FWIW, I plan to go with Centric Premium rotors and some sort of DD pad. Going with Brembos will be expensive, and going with Brembos and OEM pads from Subaru would be murder! My suggestion, check out some of the Charger forums and see what people are there are having the most luck with.

 

[dparm]

I wouldn't get the cheap rotors if you are driving that car hard. The venting is usually sub-par.

As for overall price, this is what happens when you own a performance car.

 

[bdcardinal]

The only thing with Brembo calipers is they can be tricky to retract the pistons if you don't have the right tool. I have one of these tools for my Volvo and Mustang.

Are the factory rotors solid/vented or are they slotted/cross drilled? If they are genuine Brembo slotted / cross drilled then that might explain some of the higher cost.

 

[SEMI_287]

Do. It. Your. Self.


/thread.

 

[hattaresguy]

Depends on the car, if the SRT8 has big performance brakes its going to cost a lot.

That's about right for 2 corners on an AMG Mercedes, M BMW, or XJR.

Performance brakes also tend to be softer and wear faster, I'm not surprised it needs pads at 23k miles, but I am surprised it needs rotors. They should be good for 2 sets of pads unless they are warped.

Traction control systems eat up the rears so tell him to lay off the throttle and the rear brakes will last longer. I have seen lead foot drivers burn through rear pads in 5k miles on Mercedes.

Ask the dealer what the thickness of the rotors measures or measure them yourself and compare to minimum spec in the FSM. You should be able to get away with just slapping another set of pads on it. I wouldn't recommend turning them, usually its not recommended on performance rotors.