'13 Outback - Check Engine Light, Brake Light Flashing, Cruise Control Light Flashing

[SubieRubyRoo]

Thanks, @SubieRubyRoo. I tested the battery yesterday with my Solar BA9 tester. It tested at 92% charge and 100% health. But since it is so easy to do, I took your advice and hooked up my Pro-Logix 2510 to fully charge and condition the battery. It surely can't hurt.

Question though. When you say that you run the charger for at least 24 hours, how do you do that? Mine is automatic. After fully charging the battery, it automatically goes into the battery conditioning routine. After the conditioning is complete, it automatically stops. A full charge and conditioning typically runs 10-12 hours, perhaps. I'm not positive, because I usually let it run through the night, and the charge/conditioning is complete when I check on it in the morning.

After conditioning, the charger goes into a maintenance mode, but if I understand correctly, once the conditioning is complete, the maintenance mode does nothing to improve the health of the battery. It's just keeping the battery fully charged and conditioned, long term.

Yes… just leave the ProLogix alone. It does it’s whole thing with the conditioning and maintenance modes. I just say 24 hours to make sure it’s had enough time and has deemed the battery good. It’s definitely successful; before I used to do this there have been at least twice my Impreza’s 8+ yo Interstate has tested at 11.1V or below, and it’s been brought back to life. Still working today. Good plan

 

[wtd]

If I recall correctly, yes.


I've checked the ground on the strut tower and the ground cables to both cylinder heads. All look good. No corrosion or fraying. Bolts are tight. No sign of crimp damage. The RH cylinder head ground strap is very difficult to get to, so I've only been able to inspect it visually. I'll put the car on jack stands tomorrow and see if I can get a better angle to reach it.

I also found a ground block that has 4 ground wires that go into the connector block. It is smeared with dielectric grease and everything looks tight. But when I get the car up on jack stands, I'll disconnect it from the frame and inspect it closer.

I also tested the battery, starter, and alternator. All tested OK, per my battery tester.

A wheel speed sensor issue can cause some of those other modules you said had codes to show problems when they really don't. I would definitely address the Wheel speed sensor code and see if you can get that resolved. I bet it will clear up some of those other codes and issues you are having.

 

[14Accent]

You need to tell us the actual ECM codes. Disregard ALL other codes until the ECM codes are dealth with.

I'll bet dollars to donuts that you have a failed VVT pressure switch. They fail CONSTANTLY on EJ25's, usually along with leakage. There's one switch per head: one on the front of the LH head and one on the opposite corner of the RH head. Always replace in pairs.