12th UOA, 07 Toyota 4.0L, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w30, 11k miles

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Dec 15, 2010
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Location
San Antonio,TX
The reason I do used oil analysis and extended oil changes is: 1) I find it interesting; 2) so we might learn something.

Vehicle is a 2007 Toyota 2wd FJ Cruiser w/4.0L 1GR-FE DOHC gasoline V6 w/VVTi. It is my daily driver and has been for 12 yrs. Engine had 207,300 miles at the time that the sample was taken. The sample oil was dual rated(spark and compression) Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w30. It was 12 mths old w/11,100 miles on it. Previous oil run was the same except 5w40. The full flow filter was again a Fram Ultra XG8A. The bypass filter was an Amsoil EaBP90, and was seeing its second run since new. The air filter was again a Fram Ultra XGA9683 that was new 17k miles and 17 mths ago. I do not drive in dusty conditions. We live in the country outside of San Antonio, Tx and the vehicle see's nothing but rural driving. It doesn't puff smoke at start-up, leak or burn any oil. I'm a DIYer. The vehicle has never needed to go to a shop for repairs. I do it all. It has never left me stranded. It's a wonderful vehicle and I plan to keep it a lot longer, at least until I win the lottery ;).

During this oil run I did the following which probably caused the higher than normal Silicon level.
1) changed the pcv valve
2) cleaned MAP sensor
3) cleaned throttle body
4) changed spark plugs
5) removed the passenger side valve cover. Cleaned it inside and out. Put it back on with a new Felpro gasket. It wasn't leaking. I was just curious as to what it looked like inside. I've seen better, and I've seen worse.

I have always run regular unleaded. I tried Super unleaded, but gas mileage didn't increase. But for the last 6 mths, each time I fill-up, I pump in 3 gals of e85 first($0.30/gal cheaper) then fill it the rest of the way(12 gals) with regular unleaded. Now I get 300 to 310 miles between fill-ups, which is about a 10 mile/tank increase and lower cost/tank.

OAI flags and "boo hoo's" my results, and Blackstone says "looks fine, keep doing what your doing." OAI doesn't have enough data on the oil and wanted me to submit a virgin oil sample for a baseline. NOT! The next run is this same oil then I'll be switching to something else.

The proof is in the pudding. It is running strong, and has always run strong without issue(s). Always very little wear metal(s) in the uoa results.

What say you?

Included is a pic of the oil filter pleats and pieces in case you were curious about such things?

DSCN9985-001.JPG

DSCN9986-001.JPG

DSCN9989.JPG

DSCN9988.JPG
 
Thanks for sharing! Very little carbon soot in the filter pleats for an engine with that many miles.
 
Was your engine modified to fit a xg8a or would it spin on with no problems? I am away that 3614 and 3600 will interchange so long as theres room.
 
A little. It sits atop a sandwich adapter for the Pareto Point TopDog bypass filtration system that I installed Jan 2011, 150+k miles ago.

The adapter has 3/4"-16 threads too.

I think the following filters will work:

  1. Fram XG3600
  2. Fram XG3614
  3. STP ST3614
  4. AC PF53
  5. Motorcraft FL793
  6. NAPA-Pro Select-SFI21348
  7. NAPA-Gold-FIL1348
  8. NAPA-NASCAR-NFI91348
  9. NAPA-K&N-BK7355551
  10. K&N HP1002
  11. Amsoil EaO57(discontinued)
  12. Wix 51348
  1. Mobil 1 M301(big) or M102(little)
  2. Fram XG8A
  3. Amsoil EaO 42(4”),96(4.25”),15(5.2”),26(7”)
  4. Wix51515
DSCN9999.JPG

DSCN9998.JPG
 
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I'd suggest a full SAPS full Ca. A3B4 like a M1 0/40 in your legacy 4.0L...I don't like the dumbed down ESP part of D1 for extended drains.
 
I'm not real impressed with this oil. But, for $10/gal, it's awesome. I bought a lot of it utilizing a couple of discounts I came across a few yrs ago. I won't be buying it again unless I get such a discount again.

E85 has a much higher octane rating than even super unleaded. But e85 has 27% less energy(btu) content than unleaded. It is a good cleaning solvent too. A few folks on a GM forum I'm on have tried various mixes and gave me the idea. I'm doing it with our 2007 6.2L Denali too. With the Denali, as the unleaded gasoline octane goes up, so does the mpg. Not so much with this Toy 4.0L Toy, although super unleaded is recommended for it too. The Denali requires at least mid grade unleaded to keep from getting a knock sensor message. So I'm doing a 20% mix of e85 and regular unleaded to see if it likes it(improved mpg and no knock message). If so, I'll like it(lower cost/mile), and it might clean the fuel system and combustion chambers up a little. The Toy has 209k miles and Denali has 163k. Neither of these vehicles are flex fuel vehicles.
 
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I bought a bunch of D1 on rebate too, like $8.50 a gallon at the time, ran it in a 2.4 Highlander 15k, subsequent UOA was disappointing...would have been fine for half that distance.
 
A little. It sits atop a sandwich adapter for the Pareto Point TopDog bypass filtration system that I installed Jan 2011, 150+k miles ago.

The adapter has 3/4"-16 threads too.

I think the following filters will work:

  1. Fram XG3600
  2. Fram XG3614
  3. STP ST3614
  4. AC PF53
  5. Motorcraft FL793
  6. NAPA-Pro Select-SFI21348
  7. NAPA-Gold-FIL1348
  8. NAPA-NASCAR-NFI91348
  9. NAPA-K&N-BK7355551
  10. K&N HP1002
  11. Amsoil EaO57(discontinued)
  12. Wix 51348
  1. Mobil 1 M301(big) or M102(little)
  2. Fram XG8A
  3. Amsoil EaO 42(4”),96(4.25”),15(5.2”),26(7”)
  4. Wix51515
View attachment 35965
View attachment 35966
Pretty cool setup
 
Yes, nice setup indeed. Oil changes are a dream on that engine compared to the next gen 4.0.

Did you get an under the valve cover picture? Would be nice to see.

Agree that this doesn't look like the best oil to use, but $10 for 4 quarts is a good price.

However dblshock's comments and UOA results are orrect...this seems to be a watered down version not suitable for long drains.

One last comment - you said you do not drive in dusty conditions, but Silicon is higher than expected in every sample. So I'd be having a look at the air filter.
 
This seems like a lot of iron wear for a Toyota which always have single digit wear metals. I would try a different oil and shorter intervals. I always prefer to see single digit to zero wear metals.
 
Read the first sentence of my original post above. I do extended oil changes. That's what I do. My owners manual says to change the oil every 5k miles. I think I'm proving what a waste of time, $, and materials that is.

Iron is always less than 2 ppm per 1000 miles which is low for any engine, even this engine. That's why its never been flagged by the labs I use.

I've been looking for an induction leak for 12 yrs without success. I'll keep trying. I've tried many different air filter elements too. Nothing I've done has made a difference. As you can see the silicon isn't hurting anything, probably because of the bypass system.

Here are pics inside each valve cover:
VC ps before.JPG

VC ds in before.JPG
 
pretty dark around the fill cap. I'd guess your doing some short trips, notice goo under the cap?..M1 0/40 will clean that up.
 
Who cares about the deposits on the valve covers, what about the valvetrain?
 
This seems like a lot of iron wear for a Toyota which always have single digit wear metals. I would try a different oil and shorter intervals. I always prefer to see single digit to zero wear metals.

1.45ppm per 1000 miles? I'd take that in pretty much any vehicle.
 
pretty dark around the fill cap. I'd guess your doing some short trips, notice goo under the cap?..M1 0/40 will clean that up.
😆😂 no it won’t clean up jack. No off the shelf oil will clean up varnish, regardless of what you read on the internet. I’ve done my fair share of testing in this department. There was no cleaning AT ALL. Don’t waste your time & money.
 
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