12 Point Sockets...Are You Guilty ?

I have both 6-point & 12-point in a lot of sockets, Doesn't seem to matter most of the time. I started out only buying 6-point then started running into 12-point fasteners (people love to buy 12-point ARP fasteners) plus whenever a OEM throws in a 12-point.

All that seemed cheap compared to all the specialty stuff required today.....Torx-Plus, External Torx-Plus, 5-point Torx-Plus Security, Triple Square, & Spline.

6-point Wrenches have their uses, GM Differential Pin Bolts **** near require a 6-point 5/16" wrench. Bleeder Screws that are right up against something where you can't get a socket on it is another.
 
The first time I remember running into an OE 12pt on a US car was a on 76 or so Eldorado, I dont remember exactly what it was but I think is was on the inner CV joints. The only reason I remember it was I didn't have a SAE 12pt socket only the Craftsman 6pt.
 
The first 12 points I came across was on the barrel flange nuts of Triumph motorcycles. You can't use a socket on them, and all ring spanners are 12 point.
 
My usual sockets are 12-pioint. I bought 6 points only after rounding off a few stubborn nuts and bolts on the MG. Never mind that instead of rounding off, they just snapped off instead. :ROFLMAO:
 
Working on rusty Ford, Vauxhall, PSA and fiat meant I started with the right size 6 point and once the rust had dropped off and dropped its size down two times it’s then either the 12 point or Irwin socket that would grip and loosen it. These days only really working on new VAGS without rust I use 6 point most of the time out of habit then the 12 point if it’s a 12 point faster as some are on suspension/ gearbox etc.
 
I use 12 point a lot. I also at work since I pull drive drivelines, have to deal with needing a universal socket for those pesky post-2000 Ford spline driveline bolts...
 
My usual sockets are 12-pioint. I bought 6 points only after rounding off a few stubborn nuts and bolts on the MG. Never mind that instead of rounding off, they just snapped off instead. :ROFLMAO:
Have you tried using a 6 point to break loose those stubborn bolts first.... then the 12 point to remove it ?
 
Can't pull head nuts or rod nuts on MY MGB engine without a 12 point socket. Not stock, but ARP fasteners...
 
Ive always used 6 pt on the assumption that there is a bit more interfacing area, and a bit less chance of rounding a fastener over. I know that the real interface points are really at the edges, and I know that well made 12pt can handle a lot of torque (Ive sheared off some pretty substantial bolts with 12pt tools).

There is a marginal convenience benefit Ive seen with 12pt. I dont wrench enough to see the benefit, though I can appreciate that pros might. I have both types of tools for just in case... but its neither here nor there for my personal use.
 
I am in aviation. Everything seems to have 12 points! My tools at home are pretty much all 12 point, except the impacts, spark plug sockets, and spline drives.
But hardly anything in aviation gets anywhere near nasty funky rust covered like a rust belt car. Huge difference. Besides everything is high quality not bolts that are far less prone to problems.
 
But hardly anything in aviation gets anywhere near nasty funky rust covered like a rust belt car. Huge difference. Besides everything is high quality not bolts that are far less prone to problems.
Apparently you don’t work on the same kind of aircraft I do. Rust, dirt, and seized fasteners are the norm. The titanium, magnesium and other exotic metals may not rust, but the bolts holding* that stuff together is another story.
 
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Raise your hand if your guilty of owning 12 point sockets and have never used them.
We use 12 point tools all the time! Check out this leaking flange on a PW 815 engine.

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I got rid of all my 12 point sockets. I have no need for them. With the advent of high tooth ratchets, 12 point sockets are not really needed anymore.
 
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