For no other reason, I would think in SC there is no reason to get a 0/40. The hot weather is far more brutal then the cold here, so the 0 part serves no purpose unless you live 1000 miles north.
10W40 vs 0W40
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Christian, take off that hat and rethink your post, it's clouding your thoughts.In the german oil club Forum, 0w-40 is regarded as a very bad choice, because it is just a marketing gag. Poor quality oil, boosted with VI Improvers that shear down in no time. Avoid it all cost.
If you want to protect your engine, you need a thick base oil, therefore 10w-40. As a side note, allways remember, cold start wear dont exist.
All you need is a thick base oil, thats the most important thing.
I wonder when all the manufacturers that recomemnds 0w-40 for their high end sports cars wake up and see that they do it wrong...
You are missing the point. Only 10W40 oil I would consider is Mobil1 10W40 HM. It is very thick W40.
But, Mobil1 0W40 is higher in ZDDP, has Esters, PAO and GTL in base unlike 10W40. Actually M1 recommends 0W40 as track capable oil.
I started 10W40 oil at temperatures as low as -42. But, living in Alabama I used in VW Castrol Edge 0W30. Not bcs, of 0W, but bcs. overall performance of oil, and that Castrol Edge 0W30 will outperform any 10W40 made for regular vehicles.
I figured it was sarcasm since he added the wink emoji.
I have used Euro Castrol 0W40 in my 4.2 V6 in the past. My engine is quiet, but it seems like it was even quieter with the 0W40. 
Valvoline Daily Protection 5w30 labels itself as a blend. Super Tech 5w30 labels itself as conventional but is almost certainly a blend. However Daily Protection 10w30 labels itself as conventional and probably is mostly group 2/2+. Is 10w40 a blend? Not sure of that, of course I haven't used any or even looked at a jug in 35 years.
It looks like you have a VQ, I know it is very common for guys to run w40 oils in them. Some stick to SN and Euro approved 0w40/5w40. Others have been running heavier diesel 15w40 oils. I run 5w30 and 0w40 in my VQ without any issues. the 0w40 seems to do better in the winter for me.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Same here.
The car maybe gets ~5k miles a year. So it doesn’t get driven too much. I’ve have Castrol’s 0W40 in it since March, and I’ll probably run it until next March and then change it. I’ve never been one to change oil weights based on season simply because living in the south, our winters are like spring in most other states.
What vehicle of your has the VQ engine? I also use M1 0w40 in the 2 Maximas. Sometimes I get the feeling I would have been better with a thin 5w30 (like my previous PUP 5w30) in sub 32F weather. I wish you can prove me wrong. It's getting colder here these days.
More viscosity modifiers are required for a 0w base oil than a 10w base oil to perform like a 40w when hot. With a good PAO base stock oil it probably won't make much of a difference in a 0w-40. For a group III it may.
Not all VII polymers are the same in terms of quality and viscosity retention. Beyond that, nearly all the 0W-40 products on the market carry stringent manufacturer approvals that include stay-in-grade requirements. They do not use inferior VII.
Your post is a common statement here but it’s not that simplistic.
Not really. Depends what is base stock of an oil too. Not all modifiers are same, not all stocks are same etc.
Depends on which continent you are living.......my 10w40 in a sig is made out of GTL......
Shell HX7 PCMO version is gr. I + GTL......MB 229.3.....
Both oils flow down to -35C -39C........10w40 grade is basically all you need here....weather wise
Did sameone mention conventional version of the same grade? Nahhh.....just have it (over the pond)
Both, the frontier has the VQ40DE and the Pathfinder has the VQ35DE. My VQ40 can be noisy sometimes so the 0w40 seems to help in the winter. The Pathfinder I have only run 0w20 or 5w30 in it.
I get less top end clatter when running 0w40
Yes, but honestly, thats what the "Bosses" tell people in the german Oil club forum, no kidding!
I just want to share it, trying to maybe make some BITOG members smile. I dont want to de-rail this thread, i dont want to confuse people...
Sorry if my posting went wrong.
But, seriously:
There are reports in german forums, from people that seem thrustworthy, that engines who have a reputaion for problems with rod Bearings (BMW) benefit from 10w- oils. There are still a few high quality 10w-40 around.
All others, just use a 0w-40 with Porsche A40 / MB 229.5 specification and you are fine.
Then there is whole group of people that blame 10W oils in BMW's bcs. they are too thick during warm up, and many BMW drivers neglect oil temperature before they step on it.
Thanks for the information! Interesting to read the opposite view.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
That's not necessarily true. Looking at the Mobil blending guides:
They show a 0w-40 with 11.6% VII blended with SpectraSyn PAO and Esterex. This has a Noack of 10%.
They show a 0w-40 with 9.4% VII blended with Yubase 4 and SpectraSyn Plus 4. This has a Noack of 11.8%
They show a 0w-40 with 9.4% VII blended with EHC 45 and SpectraSyn Plus 4. This has a Noack of 10%.
They show a 5w-30 with 11.74% VII blended with SpectraSyn PAO and Esterex. This has a Noack of 8%
They show a 5w-30 with 9.2% VII blended with EHC 50 and Group III (4cSt). This has a Noack of 12.6%
They show a 10w-40 with 9.8% VII blended with EHC 50 (HDEO). This has a Noack of 11.3%
They show a 10w-40 with 9.6% VII blended with Group II and Group III (HDEO). This has a Noack of 11.3%
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