For no other reason, I would think in SC there is no reason to get a 0/40. The hot weather is far more brutal then the cold here, so the 0 part serves no purpose unless you live 1000 miles north.
Christian, take off that hat and rethink your post, it's clouding your thoughts.In the german oil club Forum, 0w-40 is regarded as a very bad choice, because it is just a marketing gag. Poor quality oil, boosted with VI Improvers that shear down in no time. Avoid it all cost.
If you want to protect your engine, you need a thick base oil, therefore 10w-40. As a side note, allways remember, cold start wear dont exist.
All you need is a thick base oil, thats the most important thing.
I wonder when all the manufacturers that recomemnds 0w-40 for their high end sports cars wake up and see that they do it wrong...
You are missing the point. Only 10W40 oil I would consider is Mobil1 10W40 HM. It is very thick W40.For no other reason, I would think in SC there is no reason to get a 0/40. The hot weather is far more brutal then the cold here, so the 0 part serves no purpose unless you live 1000 miles north.
Christian, take off that hat and rethink your post, it's clouding your thoughts.
Same here.I figured it was sarcasm since he added the wink emoji.
The car maybe gets ~5k miles a year. So it doesn’t get driven too much. I’ve have Castrol’s 0W40 in it since March, and I’ll probably run it until next March and then change it. I’ve never been one to change oil weights based on season simply because living in the south, our winters are like spring in most other states.It looks like you have a VQ, I know it is very common for guys to run w40 oils in them. Some stick to SN and Euro approved 0w40/5w40. Others have been running heavier diesel 15w40 oils. I run 5w30 and 0w40 in my VQ without any issues. the 0w40 seems to do better in the winter for me.
It looks like you have a VQ, I know it is very common for guys to run w40 oils in them. Some stick to SN and Euro approved 0w40/5w40. Others have been running heavier diesel 15w40 oils. I run 5w30 and 0w40 in my VQ without any issues. the 0w40 seems to do better in the winter for me.
Not all VII polymers are the same in terms of quality and viscosity retention. Beyond that, nearly all the 0W-40 products on the market carry stringent manufacturer approvals that include stay-in-grade requirements. They do not use inferior VII.More viscosity modifiers are required for a 0w base oil than a 10w base oil to perform like a 40w when hot. With a good PAO base stock oil it probably won't make much of a difference in a 0w-40. For a group III it may.
Not really. Depends what is base stock of an oil too. Not all modifiers are same, not all stocks are same etc.More viscosity modifiers are required for a 0w base oil than a 10w base oil to perform like a 40w when hot. With a good PAO base stock oil it probably won't make much of a difference in a 0w-40. For a group III it may.
Depends on which continent you are living.......my 10w40 in a sig is made out of GTL......Depends on the outside temperature and the requirements in your manual
Both, the frontier has the VQ40DE and the Pathfinder has the VQ35DE. My VQ40 can be noisy sometimes so the 0w40 seems to help in the winter. The Pathfinder I have only run 0w20 or 5w30 in it.What vehicle of your has the VQ engine? I also use M1 0w40 in the 2 Maximas. Sometimes I get the feeling I would have been better with a thin 5w30 (like my previous PUP 5w30) in sub 32F weather. I wish you can prove me wrong. It's getting colder here these days.
I get less top end clatter when running 0w40The car maybe gets ~5k miles a year. So it doesn’t get driven too much. I’ve have Castrol’s 0W40 in it since March, and I’ll probably run it until next March and then change it. I’ve never been one to change oil weights based on season simply because living in the south, our winters are like spring in most other states.
I figured it was sarcasm since he added the wink emoji.
Then there is whole group of people that blame 10W oils in BMW's bcs. they are too thick during warm up, and many BMW drivers neglect oil temperature before they step on it.Yes, but honestly, thats what the "Bosses" tell people in the german Oil club forum, no kidding!
I just want to share it, trying to maybe make some BITOG members smile. I dont want to de-rail this thread, i dont want to confuse people...
Sorry if my posting went wrong.
But, seriously:
There are reports in german forums, from people that seem thrustworthy, that engines who have a reputaion for problems with rod Bearings (BMW) benefit from 10w- oils. There are still a few high quality 10w-40 around.
All others, just use a 0w-40 with Porsche A40 / MB 229.5 specification and you are fine.
More viscosity modifiers are required for a 0w base oil than a 10w base oil to perform like a 40w when hot. With a good PAO base stock oil it probably won't make much of a difference in a 0w-40. For a group III it may.
Yes, but honestly, thats what the "Bosses" tell people in the german Oil club forum, no kidding!
I just want to share it, trying to maybe make some BITOG members smile. I dont want to de-rail this thread, i dont want to confuse people...
Sorry if my posting went wrong.
But, seriously:
There are reports in german forums, from people that seem thrustworthy, that engines who have a reputaion for problems with rod Bearings (BMW) benefit from 10w- oils. There are still a few high quality 10w-40 around.
All others, just use a 0w-40 with Porsche A40 / MB 229.5 specification and you are fine.