Didn't read all the posts, but enough to ascertain some common questions regarding mono-grade oils. If anyone remembers, I've consistently opined that best protection against wear will be provided by a mono-grade oil. I run SAE-30 in my Grand Prix in the summer, and sometimes use 10W-30 in the winter months.
1. Mono-grade oils provide superior metal-to-metal protection because they provide MORE oil between the moving parts than do multi-grade oils.
2. Multi-grade oils are made up of the lower number viscosity oil, and utilize VI improvers to "simulate" a thicker oil at operating temperatures. These VI improvers do nothing to lubricate, and displace oil which does lubricate.
3. VI improvers break down in use causing the oil to "simulate" a thinner and thinner oil until it finally acts like a straight lower number oil even at operating temperature.
4. You need viscosity to act as a cushion between moving parts. The more the viscosity, the more the cushioning affect. However, if oil becomes too thick at operating temperature, cylinder wall wear will increase due to insufficient oil throw-off from the bearings.
5. Big radial and other reciprocating aircraft engines demand mono-grade oils because of the aforementioned problems with multi-grade oils, AND the fact that those broken down VI improvers will slip past the rings and foul the spark plugs. Things may have changed, but as recent as 10 years ago, synthetic oils were to be avoided in radial engines because they're not robust enough.
6. Lawn mower and other small air cooled engines have for decades specified mono-grade oils, citing excessive oil consumption with multi-grade oils. This is because the multi-grade oils break down, thin out, and slip past the rings and are consumed. The small reservoir in small engines cannot tolerate much oil consumption before they're out of oil.
7. SAE-30 oil can be safely used in automobile engines down to a start-up temperature of 40F. Below that you should use a multi-grade oil, even though it provides less engine protection at operating temperature.
8. My Suzuki Intruder 1400 motorcycle specifies 10W-40. I run straight SAE-40, HOWEVER, I am anal enough to preheat the engine with a shop light under the engine overnight before taking it out, AND, I always run up a minimum of 140 miles for each "cold" start. In addition to preheating, I keep my rpm's below 2500 rpm for the first 5 miles. If I were doing a lot of shorter rides, I'd be running SAE-30 in the motorcycle. Relative velocity between moving parts determines wear rate when lubrication is marginal.
I've called 0W-20, 5W-20, and 5W-30 oils wee-wee. So, I won't repeat that here.
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo