I just got my annual service done at Cliff's BMW in Danbury. They put in 10W-40 instead of the 20W-50 that I specifically requested. They claimed that since my bike only has 3K miles on it that this oil viscosity is need to aid the berak in. I think this is total BULLSH_T!! In the manual that came with my bike it shows the oil use chart that 10W-40 should not be used in temperatures over 70 degrees. So am I wrong and this 10-40 oil is ok or should I drain it and put in 20-50?? Will the 10-40 hurt my engine since it will be used in temps over 70 and driven hard?? Thanks for the help!!
10-40 oil ok in an R1100s?
- Thread starter Bumper
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I just finished a 3000 mile interval with Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 on my '01 R1100S and will post the UOA results later this week. Temperatures have been in the 70's and 80's lately here in Houston.
I guess it would be good to know what brand of oil the dealer used. The manual indicates that 40 weight "special" oils are OK at higher ambient temperatures, and I interpret this to mean synthetics.
If you are still uncomfortable with the 40 weight oil, get the dealer to change it to what you asked for or do it yourself. Takes about 20 minutes.
I guess it would be good to know what brand of oil the dealer used. The manual indicates that 40 weight "special" oils are OK at higher ambient temperatures, and I interpret this to mean synthetics.
If you are still uncomfortable with the 40 weight oil, get the dealer to change it to what you asked for or do it yourself. Takes about 20 minutes.
Bumper:
Run the 10W40 a couple thousand miles and "feel" how it shifts. Is it notchy? Hard to shift? Maybe, maybe not. Do the same for the 20W50. You'll probably find the 20W50 "feels" better. I would use the 20W50, even in a water cooler bike. I believe the Dealership uses 10W40 during break-in as it flows better and just may help flush the assembly lube and casing debris into the filter during break-in. Either way, leave the 10W40 in and change it, if you like, to the 20W50 at the next oil change. A synthetic is highly recommended too!
Run the 10W40 a couple thousand miles and "feel" how it shifts. Is it notchy? Hard to shift? Maybe, maybe not. Do the same for the 20W50. You'll probably find the 20W50 "feels" better. I would use the 20W50, even in a water cooler bike. I believe the Dealership uses 10W40 during break-in as it flows better and just may help flush the assembly lube and casing debris into the filter during break-in. Either way, leave the 10W40 in and change it, if you like, to the 20W50 at the next oil change. A synthetic is highly recommended too!
1st off in your owners manual you should have a chart that recommends xw40(special) oils. So if it's synthetic you are okay. If you are running a conventional oil, I would dump it. This stuff will shear in viscosity pretty quickly.
You haven't damaged your bike, but I would not run this stuff more than 1500 or so.
On that note I ran 10w40 Amsoil in my 99Roadster with 9400 mile intervals. Oil analysis came back okay. In your area the 10w40 sythetic would be good for a year round basis.
Hope this helps.
I'm sure Bumper knows that his BMW has a dry clutch and separate gear box lubed with GL-5. Shifter feel will be its normal marginal self regardless of the engine oil used.
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