i have a ariens large 9 hp B&S and it seems to run a little rough i think its because i did not drain the gas out what should i use to clean it? I know there is something to add to the fuel but i dont remember what
1 Yr old B&S Snow Blower Running Rough
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Kestas
Staff member
For all OPE gas problems I always take things apart to clean them. I don't believe in mechanic-in-a-bottle solutions.
To be thorough, disassemble carburator, fuel tank, blow out the fuel lines and reassemble everything with fresh gas.
You may want to check my thread on using pure gasoline in OPE.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2749602#Post2749602
To be thorough, disassemble carburator, fuel tank, blow out the fuel lines and reassemble everything with fresh gas.
You may want to check my thread on using pure gasoline in OPE.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2749602#Post2749602
i rebuild engines all day when i get home i dont want to do that lol
Kestas
Staff member
I understand. But how can you be sure you've found the problem and fixed it properly? I like to fix things only once. You may have green gel in the carburator. You won't know unless you removed the carburator bowl.
Plus, if it's running rough because of a fuel problem, I don't think running a solvent is going to help. Gasoline is a pretty good solvent on its own.
Plus, if it's running rough because of a fuel problem, I don't think running a solvent is going to help. Gasoline is a pretty good solvent on its own.
Blue StaBil in its "cleaning" concentration. One tank of gas should do it.
Seafoam and Shell V-Power.
Seafoam +1
Or...the cover over the carb comes off pretty easily. Turn the gas off or pinch it off with vise grips then remove the bowl. Clean out the bowl and you're probably done. Too easy.
Or...the cover over the carb comes off pretty easily. Turn the gas off or pinch it off with vise grips then remove the bowl. Clean out the bowl and you're probably done. Too easy.
I would try Techron or Gumout. I think it can clean carb passage as it does fuel injectors. Of course you'd want to use a very small amount in relation to the fuel amount maybe less than 1 once for 1/4-1/2 gal tank, probably best to mix with your fuel can.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Yep, like said, I'd dump the fuel, add fresh with a heavy dose of seafoam.
Worst case, like yeehaw suggested, a bowl cleaning.
I'd also check the sparkplug just to verify it's a not a Chinese bubble gum and paper mache' special. Swap it out with a quality name brand if so.
Joel
Worst case, like yeehaw suggested, a bowl cleaning.
I'd also check the sparkplug just to verify it's a not a Chinese bubble gum and paper mache' special. Swap it out with a quality name brand if so.
Joel
+2 on Seafoam, I add the recommended amount when I fill my small engine gas containers. I don't worry about draining the fuel at the end of the season, I actually top it off.
Had a nagging missfire on my mower a couple years back. While preparing it for winter storage, I fogged the combustion chamber with SeaFoam spray. When I started it up last season, backfire was gone and the engine ran smooth all season. Probably a stuck valve that SF loosened up.
Had a nagging missfire on my mower a couple years back. While preparing it for winter storage, I fogged the combustion chamber with SeaFoam spray. When I started it up last season, backfire was gone and the engine ran smooth all season. Probably a stuck valve that SF loosened up.
I cured an old snowblower engine of stumbling by putting in a heavy mix of Toluene with the fuel and ran it for 20 mins. Then I chased it down with a batch of fresh gas. It worked great.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Yep, like said, I'd dump the fuel, add fresh with a heavy dose of seafoam.
Worst case, like yeehaw suggested, a bowl cleaning.
I'd also check the sparkplug just to verify it's a not a Chinese bubble gum and paper mache' special. Swap it out with a quality name brand if so.
Joel
Hagar's Dustbin (Home Depot) has fine wire center electrode Champion plugs for the Briggs engine family, they don't cost much ..if you're going to change the plug might as well put in a good one.
Yep, like said, I'd dump the fuel, add fresh with a heavy dose of seafoam.
Worst case, like yeehaw suggested, a bowl cleaning.
I'd also check the sparkplug just to verify it's a not a Chinese bubble gum and paper mache' special. Swap it out with a quality name brand if so.
Joel
Hagar's Dustbin (Home Depot) has fine wire center electrode Champion plugs for the Briggs engine family, they don't cost much ..if you're going to change the plug might as well put in a good one.
Go to the auto parts store and ask for the NGK equivalent of the stock champion plugs. The NGK plugs for OPE are beyond excellent.
Put about 3oz of Berrymans Chemtool in a full tank and run it.
After you run it about 30 min it will be smooth again.
After you run it about 30 min it will be smooth again.
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
I cured an old snowblower engine of stumbling by putting in a heavy mix of Toluene with the fuel and ran it for 20 mins. Then I chased it down with a batch of fresh gas. It worked great.
Cost effective and will elevate octane as well as elevate burn temps which may help blast out combustion camber carbon if run at full blast for the tank depending on deposit formation.
I use toluene/acetone/xylene and tc-w3 in every tank of fuel in my air compressor fleet. My service guy commented on how my carbs never have issues nor combustion chambers are all near spotless with no build up whatsoever. Apparently my 12 compressors are anomalies based on hours run vs other crews who bought pumps the same time I did and their services required til this point.
My air compressors. Have multiple thousands of hours on the engines and pumps. From what my services guy says 2000 hours is max before rebuild or replacement is required,and my newest one is well beyond that.
I use mos2 in the oil and a tc-w3/acetone mix in the fuel but substitute toluene or xylene for acetone sometimes. My service guy tells me that whatever voodoo I'm doing is working because in his experience no crew he services has equipment that lasts as long and requires less maintenance than my stuff.
I think its interesting that a man who services 50 crews equipment finds that mine needs less service than every other crew he services.
Just my experience.
I cured an old snowblower engine of stumbling by putting in a heavy mix of Toluene with the fuel and ran it for 20 mins. Then I chased it down with a batch of fresh gas. It worked great.
Cost effective and will elevate octane as well as elevate burn temps which may help blast out combustion camber carbon if run at full blast for the tank depending on deposit formation.
I use toluene/acetone/xylene and tc-w3 in every tank of fuel in my air compressor fleet. My service guy commented on how my carbs never have issues nor combustion chambers are all near spotless with no build up whatsoever. Apparently my 12 compressors are anomalies based on hours run vs other crews who bought pumps the same time I did and their services required til this point.
My air compressors. Have multiple thousands of hours on the engines and pumps. From what my services guy says 2000 hours is max before rebuild or replacement is required,and my newest one is well beyond that.
I use mos2 in the oil and a tc-w3/acetone mix in the fuel but substitute toluene or xylene for acetone sometimes. My service guy tells me that whatever voodoo I'm doing is working because in his experience no crew he services has equipment that lasts as long and requires less maintenance than my stuff.
I think its interesting that a man who services 50 crews equipment finds that mine needs less service than every other crew he services.
Just my experience.
Any other tips from the health department?
Toulene is a benzene derivative and quite unhealthy to breathe in mainly because you will get dumb if exposed to it much.
Now, in an OPE, benzenes don't completely burn so you will breathe toulene in some amount.
I would *never* do that to myself!
Instead I try to do the opposite and choose alkylate fuel with alomst no benzenes and the likes. Will also reduce your problems with that seasonal use engine.
Toulene is a benzene derivative and quite unhealthy to breathe in mainly because you will get dumb if exposed to it much.
Now, in an OPE, benzenes don't completely burn so you will breathe toulene in some amount.
I would *never* do that to myself!
Instead I try to do the opposite and choose alkylate fuel with alomst no benzenes and the likes. Will also reduce your problems with that seasonal use engine.
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