My 09 Camry and 07 Highlander, both with 2.4L, call for 0W20 or 5W20. With the summer highs average mid 90s in SC, would a 5W30 be advised instead of the 5W20?
0w20 ok in SC summer?
- Thread starter Back40
- Start date
- Status
I would go with the mfg recommended grade, especially if under warranty. There is no insight you might have into the motor's operation that Toyota has not exhaustively explored.
Last edited:
My BIL is a GM powertrain engineer...part of any new car model testing includes driving in the California Desert to test cooling systems (engine, trans, AC, all of them...). Those tests encounter temps of over 110 degrees F, and the engines are running on factory spec oil...unless the manual calls for a higher grade in extreme conditions (like my Volvo), the factory has tested the recommended oil under all conditions.
If factory spec is good enough for Death Valley...
If factory spec is good enough for Death Valley...
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I would go with the mfg recommended grade, especially if under warranty. There is no insight you might have into the motor's operation that Toyota has not exhaustively explored.
I believe part of Toyota's reason for recommending 0W20 is to achieve the estimated mileage ratings.
I would go with the mfg recommended grade, especially if under warranty. There is no insight you might have into the motor's operation that Toyota has not exhaustively explored.
I believe part of Toyota's reason for recommending 0W20 is to achieve the estimated mileage ratings.
Was xw-20 original spec or backspec? In my 3MZ-FE, the OM and oil cap state 5w30. Since then, 5W-20 and 0W-20 have been backspec'd. I am personally hesitant to go to an xw-20 when the original spec was 5w30. I did it once in the winter due to availability, and I am condsidering Toyota 0W-20 at some point (at least 3 more OCIs to go before I do), but seeing I can get a 0w30 for the same cost, I'd rather do that.
Find out what Toyota specs for use in Australia on the same vehicle,then split the difference.You may end up with a 5w30/40 net result.
Originally Posted By: Back40
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I would go with the mfg recommended grade, especially if under warranty. There is no insight you might have into the motor's operation that Toyota has not exhaustively explored.
I believe part of Toyota's reason for recommending 0W20 is to achieve the estimated mileage ratings.
Perhaps, but well after the lube industry had developed suitable lubes.
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I would go with the mfg recommended grade, especially if under warranty. There is no insight you might have into the motor's operation that Toyota has not exhaustively explored.
I believe part of Toyota's reason for recommending 0W20 is to achieve the estimated mileage ratings.
Perhaps, but well after the lube industry had developed suitable lubes.
The 2.4 won't care. Yes the 20 will handle the heat. No, iron readings on the 2.4 don't seem to vary depending on oil weight per UOA's here. Of course, a 30 weight will also be fine.
That engine will outlive the chassis on either of those cars, provided you aren't the 1 in 20,000 whose head bolts don't hold.
That engine will outlive the chassis on either of those cars, provided you aren't the 1 in 20,000 whose head bolts don't hold.
+1
There has been no discernible difference in wear between 20 weight and 30 weight in the 2.4L engines in the UOAs posted on BITOG.
There has been no discernible difference in wear between 20 weight and 30 weight in the 2.4L engines in the UOAs posted on BITOG.
I'd stick with 0-20 5-20. They are all very very good now.
But sure, in summertime in those conditions, 5-30 is perfectly acceptable.
But sure, in summertime in those conditions, 5-30 is perfectly acceptable.
Last edited:
Quote:
Volvo did a study where they found going from 5w30 to 5W-20 did increase the level of iron in the oil from wear. Going to thinner oils does increase gas mileage, but there should be a point of diminishing returns where it allows too much wear in the engine. I'm curious where that point is.
We don't know the parameters of that test.
The point at which a lighter oil will increase engine wear is usually when bearing wiping occurs under high load conditions. Obviously that will occur at a lower oil temp' for a 20wt than a 30wt oil. Increased Fe levels is usually associated with cylinder wear and that can be very engine specific. If a manufacturer recommends a 20wt oil, even a very light oil like the Toyota 0W-20, the safety margin is very large indeed. The oil simply can't get hot enough and therefore light enough even under high stress conditions for bearing wiping to occur.
From a practical point of view, even the lightest 20wt oil you can buy (again the Toyota Brand 0W-20) is thicker than optimum 99% of the time during an engines operation. If one really wants to know how much of a viscosity safety margin one has at any given time then you need to install an oil pressure gauge.
Volvo did a study where they found going from 5w30 to 5W-20 did increase the level of iron in the oil from wear. Going to thinner oils does increase gas mileage, but there should be a point of diminishing returns where it allows too much wear in the engine. I'm curious where that point is.
We don't know the parameters of that test.
The point at which a lighter oil will increase engine wear is usually when bearing wiping occurs under high load conditions. Obviously that will occur at a lower oil temp' for a 20wt than a 30wt oil. Increased Fe levels is usually associated with cylinder wear and that can be very engine specific. If a manufacturer recommends a 20wt oil, even a very light oil like the Toyota 0W-20, the safety margin is very large indeed. The oil simply can't get hot enough and therefore light enough even under high stress conditions for bearing wiping to occur.
From a practical point of view, even the lightest 20wt oil you can buy (again the Toyota Brand 0W-20) is thicker than optimum 99% of the time during an engines operation. If one really wants to know how much of a viscosity safety margin one has at any given time then you need to install an oil pressure gauge.
It comes down to manufacturors bearing clearances,site some solid reason where 20wt will provide the ultimate oil wedge,then get back to me.Other than that what I'm hearing is that the car mfgr's know consistantly what operation your vehicle is in,therefore you should abide by their guidlines,no matter what...even under the same conditions on a different continent.The MFGR's recommendation is sent out for the the mass populous,who dosen't know a 30 wt from a 20wt. therefore must reach an engineering d'tent and,based on the avereage driver,go with the less viscouous alternative,under gov't. consideration.
Thanks for everyones feedback. I'm off to buy some PYB 5W20...
- Status