0w20 in Vulcan Engine. Good/Bad?

[Magpie10344]

I recently picked up a 2000 Taurus with the good old 3.0 vulcan motor and 77k miles. First thing I did was dump the dino 5w30 the previous owner ran and put in M5w20. My question is has anyone ran 0w20 in that motor and what were the results?

Thanks!!!

 

[demarpaint]

I tried 5w20 in my 93 Aerostar Vulcan with good results. I had about 180K at the time. Now it leaks from a rotted oil pan so I add whatever I have on hand to keep it topped up. It will be going to the junkyard very soon I hope.

 

[Magpie10344]

I guess I should be a little more detailed. 5w20 is in now, and thinking of switching to 0w20 next change.

 

[demarpaint]

It should be about the same as the 5W20, with a slight advantage going to 0W20 during a cold start. Only this time of year you'd be splitting hairs talking about cold starts.

 

[accent2012]

That engine is a tank, so that oil should be fine. I've always put in 5w30 when I had one.

Just make sure the cooling system works fine.

 

[dkryan]

Originally Posted By: accent2012
That engine is a tank, so that oil should be fine. I've always put in 5w30 when I had one.

Just make sure the cooling system works fine.


Why? Did the Vulcan engines have issues re: cooling system?

 

[yonyon]

A little exhaust leaking into the coolant from day 1 was a fairly common problem. If coolant isn't kept fresh, water pumps and timing cover gaskets can go early on you. In a Taurus (except the first generation, which yours isn't) it's a pain to replace a radiator if it develops a leak. Cooling fan relays are prone to failure.

 

[Zako2]

If the engine is happy with 5W20 in the engine, I don't see what's the problem with a Ford approved 0W20 (see on the back of bottle, most are). I think these engines can work on any oil from 0W20 through 10W30, but I would prefer thinner oil for colder climate or lots of short trips. There were recently a couple of good looking UOAs with Maxlife, both 5W20 and 5W30.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: yonyon
A little exhaust leaking into the coolant from day 1 was a fairly common problem. If coolant isn't kept fresh, water pumps and timing cover gaskets can go early on you. In a Taurus (except the first generation, which yours isn't) it's a pain to replace a radiator if it develops a leak. Cooling fan relays are prone to failure.


Off Topic:
If it's like my daughter's '02 Taurus, yes, the cooling systems are the archilles heel of this vehicle. They are prone to internal corrosion.

There are You Tube videos about back flushing the heater core because the tiny passages clog up with rust flakes...an easy fix. Also a video on how to replace the coolant "manifold" on the firewall that will corrode through ($50 aftermarket part). The water pumps fail early too and are not too hard to replace.

Be very proactive maintaining the coolant. Otherwise, a good value vehicle, IMO.

 

[Magpie10344]

The only issue I have noticed is when getting on the gas (IE flooring it) which ive only had to do a few times merging onto the freeway on this on ramp that sucks, the trans likes to hesitate switching gears.

 

[Nickdfresh]

I run 0W-20 QSUD SM version bought at Big Lots!. The oil is very clean and the car uses little after about 4000 or 5000 miles. But it does seem to seep a bit and drip on her driveway. I'm trying to figure out of this is a seal problem, or if I didn't tighten the filter enough with the next OCI this weekend...

 

[mobilaltima]

I know two people who have a Taurus both 3.0 Vulcan, one an '05 with 56k and the other an '03 with 74k and i run 5W30 in them with no problems.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: yonyon
A little exhaust leaking into the coolant from day 1 was a fairly common problem. If coolant isn't kept fresh, water pumps and timing cover gaskets can go early on you. In a Taurus (except the first generation, which yours isn't) it's a pain to replace a radiator if it develops a leak. Cooling fan relays are prone to failure.


Off Topic:
If it's like my daughter's '02 Taurus, yes, the cooling systems are the archilles heel of this vehicle. They are prone to internal corrosion.

There are You Tube videos about back flushing the heater core because the tiny passages clog up with rust flakes...an easy fix. Also a video on how to replace the coolant "manifold" on the firewall that will corrode through ($50 aftermarket part). The water pumps fail early too and are not too hard to replace.

Be very proactive maintaining the coolant. Otherwise, a good value vehicle, IMO.


I never had any of the problems you mentioned with my 93, I guess I'm lucky. In fact I'd say from a dependability standpoint it is probably the best engine I've ever owned, [or a close second to the Ford 4.9L I-6] and I had plenty over vehicles over the years. Its no power house, but I can't seem to kill it. Mine is going to the junkyard because everything else on the vehicle is falling apart, thanks NYC roads and salt.

 

[fdcg27]

+1
In the 176K we ran our '97 Aerostar 3.0, we had virtually no problems of any kind.
I did have to replace the tie rod ends and the starter, both of which were much easier than replacing the plugs.
The only real gripe I had was the difficulty involved in certain work, like the plugs.
The engine had no power, but could still provide decent interstate speeds along with an easy 20 mpg+ average.
A great engine and a great vehicle.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
+1
In the 176K we ran our '97 Aerostar 3.0, we had virtually no problems of any kind.
I did have to replace the tie rod ends and the starter, both of which were much easier than replacing the plugs.
The only real gripe I had was the difficulty involved in certain work, like the plugs.
The engine had no power, but could still provide decent interstate speeds along with an easy 20 mpg+ average.
A great engine and a great vehicle.


Oh yea the plugs. I put her last set in about 50K miles ago and she'll be going to the junkyard with them. I cut a hole through the right side of the doghouse wall to get to the last plug on the right side. Funny thing was that plug was the factory original. Two mechanics left it in. Another reason why I prefer to do my own work.

The best mpg I got with mine was 28, it averages around 20 mpg. I just replaced a tie rod, everything else in the front end is original with 210,000 miles on it. But as I mentioned its falling apart.

If the oil pan didn't rot through I'd probably keep her. Lead flashing and Permatex Black is holding the oil pan leak at bay.

 

[tig1]

Between myself and my son we had a 91 Ranger with the Vulcan and sold it last year with 354K. Valve covers were never removed. We used M1 10-30 with 10-14 K OCIs. Engine still was very good but the body was getting rough.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

My Taurus was a reliable car, it just rusted in half ... literally rusted in half and buckled in the middle.

The most MPG out of it I got was 34mpg. Drove for 350 miles straight at 70mph with NO stopping. The only reason I stopped was because I thought the gas gauge was lieing when I wasn't on empty haha. For the entire trip from NY to DC to atlanta to huntsville Al and back, I averaged 29mpg!

If the car didn't rot out, I was going to have to have the engine looked at or switched ot a heavier oil. On hot days with the 5w20, the oil light would light up at stop lights.

 

[Shilly]

Drove my '88 3.0 to 216K, then sold it. Bought a new 2000 Taurus and still running great at 180K. Usually used Syntech 10-30 with a 5K OCI and Supertech or Motorcraft FL400 filter. These are tank engines that will run forever with normal maintenance. One of the best Ford engines ever, IMHO

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Shilly
One of the best Ford engines ever, IMHO


+1

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: yonyon
A little exhaust leaking into the coolant from day 1 was a fairly common problem. If coolant isn't kept fresh, water pumps and timing cover gaskets can go early on you. In a Taurus (except the first generation, which yours isn't) it's a pain to replace a radiator if it develops a leak. Cooling fan relays are prone to failure.


Off Topic:
If it's like my daughter's '02 Taurus, yes, the cooling systems are the archilles heel of this vehicle. They are prone to internal corrosion.

There are You Tube videos about back flushing the heater core because the tiny passages clog up with rust flakes...an easy fix. Also a video on how to replace the coolant "manifold" on the firewall that will corrode through ($50 aftermarket part). The water pumps fail early too and are not too hard to replace.

Be very proactive maintaining the coolant. Otherwise, a good value vehicle, IMO.


I never had any of the problems you mentioned with my 93, I guess I'm lucky. In fact I'd say from a dependability standpoint it is probably the best engine I've ever owned, [or a close second to the Ford 4.9L I-6] and I had plenty over vehicles over the years. Its no power house, but I can't seem to kill it. Mine is going to the junkyard because everything else on the vehicle is falling apart, thanks NYC roads and salt.


The cooling system problems seem to be unique to the Taurus. The RWD trucks and vans with this engine don't seem to have the same problems and there are a number of differences in the cooling systems between the two.

The 3.0 was sometimes referred to as the "cockroach" on Ranger forums due to its overall reliability.

As for 0W20, I don't think it will cause any problems in a 3.0.