I got some 0w20 syn on sale last year and changed my oil to it in December. 1800 miles and it was low by about 1 quart (down to bottom hole on dipstick). I've noticed the 0w20 really likes to get eaten in my engine. I added a quart of 5w40 to balance it out. I use 5w30 most changes even though it calls for 5w20 for this same reason. I went 6k on the 5w30 and was about half a quart low. This is typical on the 5w30...about half a quart lost every 5-6k. Just seems odd to me my experience is this extreme. Anyone else notice a huge difference like this? I also jump around brands which could be part of it. I'm sure some brands are better at "not losing oil".
0w20 Burnoff
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Is it going past the rings or the stem seals? How's your compression?
Originally Posted By: Olas
Is it going past the rings or the stem seals? How's your compression?
+1
What kind of car, engine, driving condition, age, mileage.....?
Is it going past the rings or the stem seals? How's your compression?
+1
What kind of car, engine, driving condition, age, mileage.....?
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Originally Posted By: Olas
Is it going past the rings or the stem seals? How's your compression?
+1
What kind of car, engine, driving condition, age, mileage.....?
Originally Posted By: Yup
I'm out of oil. None in my supply. It's a sad day. So, the question(s). I drive an early 2000s Civic Si with the K20A3 motor. It calls for 5W20. Some recommend 5W30 (which I've run here and there). For my next oil change this summer, before a long trip I'm planning, what should I buy? 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 0w30, 5w40, 0w40? I'll put on about 4000 highway miles over a couple of weeks at speeds around 75-85 mph with the engine turning 3800-4500RPMs in 5th gear at those speeds.
Originally Posted By: Olas
Is it going past the rings or the stem seals? How's your compression?
+1
What kind of car, engine, driving condition, age, mileage.....?
Originally Posted By: Yup
I'm out of oil. None in my supply. It's a sad day. So, the question(s). I drive an early 2000s Civic Si with the K20A3 motor. It calls for 5W20. Some recommend 5W30 (which I've run here and there). For my next oil change this summer, before a long trip I'm planning, what should I buy? 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 0w30, 5w40, 0w40? I'll put on about 4000 highway miles over a couple of weeks at speeds around 75-85 mph with the engine turning 3800-4500RPMs in 5th gear at those speeds.
Continually switching brands definitely wont help a consumption issue.
Originally Posted By: Yup
I got some 0w20 syn on sale last year and changed my oil to it in December. 1800 miles and it was low by about 1 quart (down to bottom hole on dipstick). I've noticed the 0w20 really likes to get eaten in my engine. I added a quart of 5w40 to balance it out. I use 5w30 most changes even though it calls for 5w20 for this same reason. I went 6k on the 5w30 and was about half a quart low. This is typical on the 5w30...about half a quart lost every 5-6k. Just seems odd to me my experience is this extreme. Anyone else notice a huge difference like this? I also jump around brands which could be part of it. I'm sure some brands are better at "not losing oil".
*I know what you mean* Let me share an epic story. This half-court low every 5k miles was a constant and I mean routine lock down in my prev DD, the Handuh V6 on that MC 5w-20 fill! Now that I am starting off with a high mileage vehicle (5w-30 spec) and not a new Honda (back specd to 5w-20 but originally 5w-30), I now can discern a full syn that doesn't burn oil (Valvoline) versus one that is designed to clean (PUP) and now is cleaning and using oil for that reason. RIght now, it is about a half-quart per 4k miles in this high mileage vehicle that has never seen anything even remotely as good as PUP. This rig probably got whatever dealer or maybe a regular mechanic has on hand.
I got some 0w20 syn on sale last year and changed my oil to it in December. 1800 miles and it was low by about 1 quart (down to bottom hole on dipstick). I've noticed the 0w20 really likes to get eaten in my engine. I added a quart of 5w40 to balance it out. I use 5w30 most changes even though it calls for 5w20 for this same reason. I went 6k on the 5w30 and was about half a quart low. This is typical on the 5w30...about half a quart lost every 5-6k. Just seems odd to me my experience is this extreme. Anyone else notice a huge difference like this? I also jump around brands which could be part of it. I'm sure some brands are better at "not losing oil".
*I know what you mean* Let me share an epic story. This half-court low every 5k miles was a constant and I mean routine lock down in my prev DD, the Handuh V6 on that MC 5w-20 fill! Now that I am starting off with a high mileage vehicle (5w-30 spec) and not a new Honda (back specd to 5w-20 but originally 5w-30), I now can discern a full syn that doesn't burn oil (Valvoline) versus one that is designed to clean (PUP) and now is cleaning and using oil for that reason. RIght now, it is about a half-quart per 4k miles in this high mileage vehicle that has never seen anything even remotely as good as PUP. This rig probably got whatever dealer or maybe a regular mechanic has on hand.
Last edited:
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
...I now can discern a full syn that doesn't burn oil (Valvoline) versus one that is designed to clean (PUP) and now is cleaning and using oil for that reason.
You are attributing the vehicle burning oil to its cleaning ability? How so?
...I now can discern a full syn that doesn't burn oil (Valvoline) versus one that is designed to clean (PUP) and now is cleaning and using oil for that reason.
You are attributing the vehicle burning oil to its cleaning ability? How so?
I asked him the same thing in the other thread. I'm not sure how burning oil off correlates to engine cleaning.
What brand 0w20?
This isn't conclusive but, can't help connecting the dots...
I use Mobil1 5w30 in my Tahoe 5.3. The OLM runs the OCs out to 8-9000 miles. It burns half a quart I.e., no additional oil added during this interval.
Tried AFE M1 0w30. Got a dash warning "low oil level". Wasn't even on the dipstick. Added 1.5 quarts. Went back to standard 5w30.
AFE oils contain reduced phos and zinc-about 20% less, according to XOM's published literature. This may or may not be the reason my truck burns AFE more easily but, it won't be used in this engine again.
This isn't conclusive but, can't help connecting the dots...
I use Mobil1 5w30 in my Tahoe 5.3. The OLM runs the OCs out to 8-9000 miles. It burns half a quart I.e., no additional oil added during this interval.
Tried AFE M1 0w30. Got a dash warning "low oil level". Wasn't even on the dipstick. Added 1.5 quarts. Went back to standard 5w30.
AFE oils contain reduced phos and zinc-about 20% less, according to XOM's published literature. This may or may not be the reason my truck burns AFE more easily but, it won't be used in this engine again.
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Originally Posted By: Indydriver
What brand 0w20?
This isn't conclusive but, can't help connecting the dots...
I use Mobil1 5w30 in my Tahoe 5.3. The OLM runs the OCs out to 8-9000 miles. It burns half a quart I.e., no additional oil added during this interval.
Tried AFE M1 0w30. Got a dash warning "low oil level". Wasn't even on the dipstick. Added 1.5 quarts. Went back to standard 5w30.
AFE oils contain reduced phos and zinc-about 20% less, according to XOM's published literature. This may or may not be the reason my truck burns AFE more easily but, it won't be used in this engine again.
I never realized AFE has less Z and P than even regular M1 but after looking at their product guide, you would be correct..
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf
What brand 0w20?
This isn't conclusive but, can't help connecting the dots...
I use Mobil1 5w30 in my Tahoe 5.3. The OLM runs the OCs out to 8-9000 miles. It burns half a quart I.e., no additional oil added during this interval.
Tried AFE M1 0w30. Got a dash warning "low oil level". Wasn't even on the dipstick. Added 1.5 quarts. Went back to standard 5w30.
AFE oils contain reduced phos and zinc-about 20% less, according to XOM's published literature. This may or may not be the reason my truck burns AFE more easily but, it won't be used in this engine again.
I never realized AFE has less Z and P than even regular M1 but after looking at their product guide, you would be correct..
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf
Yes, and look at the even higher loadings in their highly regarded 0w40, high mileage oils, racing oils and V-twin (air cooled) motorcycle oils. Must be in there for a reason.
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yes, the AFE oils have lower metallic additive content but are purported to use organic additive technology to make up for it.
Comically my experience with the AFE 0w-30 was the polar opposite, aside from M1 0w-40, which it equals (no consumption) it is the only oil that yields zero consumption on a 10-12,000Km OCI in my high mileage Expedition. It uses 1-2 litres of PU 5w-30 and used 4-5 litres of AMSOIL AZO 0w-30, which I gave several runs and simply couldn't justify continuing use of an oil that was consumed in such quantity.
It currently has the last of my ultra-low NOACK PU 5w-30 stash in it and needed a 1L top-up at about the 8,000Km mark. Next oil I am trying is Motul 0w-30 that I got for a sweet deal on Amazon and then back to the AFE 0w-30.
Comically my experience with the AFE 0w-30 was the polar opposite, aside from M1 0w-40, which it equals (no consumption) it is the only oil that yields zero consumption on a 10-12,000Km OCI in my high mileage Expedition. It uses 1-2 litres of PU 5w-30 and used 4-5 litres of AMSOIL AZO 0w-30, which I gave several runs and simply couldn't justify continuing use of an oil that was consumed in such quantity.
It currently has the last of my ultra-low NOACK PU 5w-30 stash in it and needed a 1L top-up at about the 8,000Km mark. Next oil I am trying is Motul 0w-30 that I got for a sweet deal on Amazon and then back to the AFE 0w-30.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It uses 1-2 litres of PU 5w-30 and used 4-5 litres of AMSOIL AZO 0w-30, which I gave several runs and simply couldn't justify continuing use of an oil that was consumed in such quantity.
Clearly, though, your pistons were being cleaned within an inch of their lives, so I'm not sure why you decided to abandon that.
It uses 1-2 litres of PU 5w-30 and used 4-5 litres of AMSOIL AZO 0w-30, which I gave several runs and simply couldn't justify continuing use of an oil that was consumed in such quantity.
Clearly, though, your pistons were being cleaned within an inch of their lives, so I'm not sure why you decided to abandon that.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It uses 1-2 litres of PU 5w-30 and used 4-5 litres of AMSOIL AZO 0w-30, which I gave several runs and simply couldn't justify continuing use of an oil that was consumed in such quantity.
Clearly, though, your pistons were being cleaned within an inch of their lives, so I'm not sure why you decided to abandon that.
BAHHHAHAHAHAHHA
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It uses 1-2 litres of PU 5w-30 and used 4-5 litres of AMSOIL AZO 0w-30, which I gave several runs and simply couldn't justify continuing use of an oil that was consumed in such quantity.
Clearly, though, your pistons were being cleaned within an inch of their lives, so I'm not sure why you decided to abandon that.
BAHHHAHAHAHAHHA
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Are you sure there is no leak?
It's burned 0w20 and 5w20 more than 5w30 since having about 25k miles when it was new to me. Its an 02 Civic Si. I was running NAPA Syn but pretty sure it's not the oil as I have to top off more often with any 0w20 and 5w20 I use. It especially sucks it down with highway miles 70-80mph. 5w30 doesn't burn much but if I put on 1000 miles with 0w20 in for a trip I'd have to top off once for sure. RPMs run about 3800 at 70 and 4200 at 80. With 25k miles and about 3500 miles on M1 5w20 a few years ago went on a long trip in the summer. About 4000 miles round trip. Reached a relatives house, checked the oil, way low (noticed it when checking at gas stations in the way). Bought some 5w30 M1 and had almost no consumption the rest of the trip after changing to the 5w30. So I unscientifically blame oil weight. Next change I'll throw 5w30 in and won't have an issue. Right now it has around 170k on it. No leaks.
Are you sure there is no leak?
It's burned 0w20 and 5w20 more than 5w30 since having about 25k miles when it was new to me. Its an 02 Civic Si. I was running NAPA Syn but pretty sure it's not the oil as I have to top off more often with any 0w20 and 5w20 I use. It especially sucks it down with highway miles 70-80mph. 5w30 doesn't burn much but if I put on 1000 miles with 0w20 in for a trip I'd have to top off once for sure. RPMs run about 3800 at 70 and 4200 at 80. With 25k miles and about 3500 miles on M1 5w20 a few years ago went on a long trip in the summer. About 4000 miles round trip. Reached a relatives house, checked the oil, way low (noticed it when checking at gas stations in the way). Bought some 5w30 M1 and had almost no consumption the rest of the trip after changing to the 5w30. So I unscientifically blame oil weight. Next change I'll throw 5w30 in and won't have an issue. Right now it has around 170k on it. No leaks.
Running 0W-20 in your car is like eating tortilla chips with extremely hot salsa. It lights your mouth on fire and makes your eyes water profusely, but you keep on eating it anyway because you don't want to wuss out.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Running 0W-20 in your car is like eating tortilla chips with extremely hot salsa. It lights your mouth on fire and makes your eyes water profusely, but you keep on eating it anyway because you don't want to wuss out.
Laugh !!
Running 0W-20 in your car is like eating tortilla chips with extremely hot salsa. It lights your mouth on fire and makes your eyes water profusely, but you keep on eating it anyway because you don't want to wuss out.
Laugh !!
When did plain ole everyday oil burning become burn off????
My understanding burn off is through oil evaporation from NOACK issues, oil burning is oil finding it's way into cylinder past rings or valve stem seals(mechanical issue)...
Two different processes... Thicker oil helps with second... Could be worse with thicker oil if NOACK is coming into play...
My understanding burn off is through oil evaporation from NOACK issues, oil burning is oil finding it's way into cylinder past rings or valve stem seals(mechanical issue)...
Two different processes... Thicker oil helps with second... Could be worse with thicker oil if NOACK is coming into play...
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