0w oils?
- Thread starter slybunda
- Start date
I've taken to putting M1 Euro in everything, partially to consolidate my "stock" but also because it is stout and covers a wide temperature range. Also, being such a bargain (especially with rebates/coupons) it's a no-risk, no-brainer choice IMO.
GTL by the way is made from wax and wax is for skiing
but but....not appropriate in those corona days....! Skilifts are "kak" 
Take a look at the larger Briggs, Kohler, Kawasaki, etc engines, a lot of them do have oil coolers on them. Here's one off a B&S twin cyl.
At a minimum, an air cooled engine should have 10W-30, preferably synthetic.
Some of us run Rotella 5W-40/15W-40 in air cooled engines.
Winter use is another matter, but 5W oil would be fine during the snow season.
My 2¢
Some of us run Rotella 5W-40/15W-40 in air cooled engines.
Winter use is another matter, but 5W oil would be fine during the snow season.
My 2¢
I have one on my Kohler V-twin mower. There’s a duct off the main fan that provides airflow to where the radiator is mounted.
I have another mower with the same engine but without the optional oil cooler, I might have to compare oil temps between the two some day.
I have an older Briggs powered Troy Bilt with a ton of hours on it. Last couple of seasons it had begun to burn a fair amount of oil. I made the switch from the recommended 5w-30 synthetic to conventional 10w-40.....along with 3 oil changes over the course of a month or so with 4 ounces of Restore added each time. It has basically stopped using oil and doesn't smoke anymore. It seems to start and run fine on the heavier oil
5w-30 ST synth. in my multiple mowers and snowblowers year round. '90's vintage motors going great. 0w-30 synth. in my stationary generac at my camp as it see's -30f weather every winter and it's gotta start to keep heat on when I'm not there. It has a oil cooler and oil is in year round, summer record high for it's location is 93f so I'm not worried about summer heat.
No, too thin and likely would increase oil consumption. Unless you are using the engine in sub-freezing temps, a 10w-30 or SAE 30 conventional oil is a good choice.
Because beeing monograde it lacks VI...
Less chemistry....less oil detoriation when in use...thats why sae30 is more robust....and regarded as HDEO
Less chemistry....less oil detoriation when in use...thats why sae30 is more robust....and regarded as HDEO
Amsoil? Redline?
I'm unsure of the truth behind it but I do see VP Racing full syn "small engine oil" branded as "SAE 30/10w-30"
Buy 4 Cycle Engine Oil SAE 30/10W-30 | VP Racing Fuels
VP SAE 30/10W-30 synthetic 4 cycle engine oil delivers superior thermal resistance, protection, & lubrication for small engines in portable outdoor equipment.
vpracingfuels.com
Thats normal thing...it just reflects that VP synthetic monograde oil is of that quality that IF tested it can qualified also as a 10w30
Even cheap dino sae30 OPE oils would be qualified as 20w30 or 25w30 IF tested! (25W is not official saeJ300 designation...but the point taken here is that you would not get a brick of grease @-5/10' C)
Even cheap dino sae30 OPE oils would be qualified as 20w30 or 25w30 IF tested! (25W is not official saeJ300 designation...but the point taken here is that you would not get a brick of grease @-5/10' C)
I can tell you having 10w30 in the mower in the fall makes the mower easier to start for us old guys.
I've used 0W30 Castrol in OPE for nearly 15 years. The only stuff that has blown up is totally unrelated to lube.
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