In a 2010 chevy equinox with the 2.4L direct injection engine, would you use d1g2 5W-30 or 0W-40 m1, castrol, pp euro, rotella? It will be used for a 1400 mile round trip in a few weeks carrying max capacity of passengers, cargo, and a bike rack with 5 bikes. I want to know if 0W-40 would cause any issues with lspi, or if that isn’t an issue with this engine. What oil for the best protection under these circumstances? And I'm assuming that I’ll lose 0.1-0.5 mpg using 0W-40 vs 5W-30.
0W-40 or 5W-30?
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Use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 that says Dexos 1 Gen 2 on the bottle. It is an ACEA A5 oil so it's a stouter 5W30.
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
I don't see any issues with that.
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
I don't see any issues with that.
You'll lose mpg hauling the maximum load, oil won't be noticeable.
Non-turbo = no LSPI.
Either oil will work well.
Non-turbo = no LSPI.
Either oil will work well.
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 that says Dexos 1 Gen 2 on the bottle. It is an ACEA A5 oil so it's a stouter 5W30.
They make that labeling as confusing as possible.
OP, slight nod to the 5W-30 though if you choose 0W-40 and have the coin to get it that would be fine too. It will likely cost more.
Use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 that says Dexos 1 Gen 2 on the bottle. It is an ACEA A5 oil so it's a stouter 5W30.
They make that labeling as confusing as possible.
OP, slight nod to the 5W-30 though if you choose 0W-40 and have the coin to get it that would be fine too. It will likely cost more.
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
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Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
How does the oil get through the passages when it's cold outside?
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
How does the oil get through the passages when it's cold outside?
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through
Lol. Quite a problem when the oil is cold, eh?
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through
Lol. Quite a problem when the oil is cold, eh?
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
Could you please elaborate? I'm running 5W-50 in an engine that specifies 0W-40 and I want to be sure I do not do any damage to my engine.
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
Could you please elaborate? I'm running 5W-50 in an engine that specifies 0W-40 and I want to be sure I do not do any damage to my engine.
Running walmart's cheap Mobil1 or Pennzoil or Castrol 0w40 (5-quart) jugs isn't a bad idea. Any of those three, no proven differences.
That is a high level of protection. You're right when you say you'll lose around 0.5 MPG. LSPI is more likely in turbo+DI engines, although DI engines also suffer (rarely). https://www.kendallmotoroil.com/newsroom/gf-5-plus-addressing-lspi-in-direct-injection-engines
That is a high level of protection. You're right when you say you'll lose around 0.5 MPG. LSPI is more likely in turbo+DI engines, although DI engines also suffer (rarely). https://www.kendallmotoroil.com/newsroom/gf-5-plus-addressing-lspi-in-direct-injection-engines
Yo, o_f_m, Thanks for the link. I needed that article. I'm a little behind in my GDFI and LSPI.
I would run a new 5w30 or a 0w40. I am about to put the magnatec 5w30 in my Tacoma and run 0w40 in my 4Runner.
in your heat i would use a 10W-xx less viscosity improvers, a 15w if its using oil. girlfriends 2.5L malibu DI was using a qt on a thou of the spec dexos 5-20, moving to a 10-30 mobil I extended almost eliminated consumption in yearly under 10 thou changes, new filter @ 6 mo as its sooo small!!
My vote is for 0w40 M1. Currently have 0w40 in my accord and it runs like a champ.
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
I’m going to quote myself from the 10w-30 thread
Quote:
You’re missing the point. Engines can operate on 0w-20 all the way to 20w-50 and the grades between. For the daily driver 0w-20 provides adequate protection and allows OEM to claim better mpg. Take that same engine and canyon race it with 0w-20 and you may have some bearing issues once the oil gets hot.
Yes 5w-30 will run hotter. It is actually heated by friction as it is pumped through the bearings. This is where the mpg gains of thinner oil come from. They have less frictional pumping losses through the bearings and other parts. it also picks up heat from the pistons and whatnot. The key here is that even though the 5w-30 was hotter, it was still thicker in the bearings and other parts of the engine than the 0w-20. That gives a thicker oil wedge for the bearings to float on as you’re flogging the engine down the canyon.
Another example. The Ford Mustang with the Coyote 5.0 V8 calls for 0w-20 for everyday use. However if you get the track pack, 5w-50 is recommended. Same engine, 2 different recommended oil grades based on operating conditions.
Stop parroting bad information please.
OP either oil will be fine. I’d try the 0w-40 for the fun of it.
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
Is there any reason not to use 0w-40?
Your engine may have not been designed to handle W40-weight and if so the passages may not allow the oil to go through.
I’m going to quote myself from the 10w-30 thread
Quote:
You’re missing the point. Engines can operate on 0w-20 all the way to 20w-50 and the grades between. For the daily driver 0w-20 provides adequate protection and allows OEM to claim better mpg. Take that same engine and canyon race it with 0w-20 and you may have some bearing issues once the oil gets hot.
Yes 5w-30 will run hotter. It is actually heated by friction as it is pumped through the bearings. This is where the mpg gains of thinner oil come from. They have less frictional pumping losses through the bearings and other parts. it also picks up heat from the pistons and whatnot. The key here is that even though the 5w-30 was hotter, it was still thicker in the bearings and other parts of the engine than the 0w-20. That gives a thicker oil wedge for the bearings to float on as you’re flogging the engine down the canyon.
Another example. The Ford Mustang with the Coyote 5.0 V8 calls for 0w-20 for everyday use. However if you get the track pack, 5w-50 is recommended. Same engine, 2 different recommended oil grades based on operating conditions.
Stop parroting bad information please.
OP either oil will be fine. I’d try the 0w-40 for the fun of it.
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The difference between hot 20w and hot 60w is HUNDREDS times less, than the difference between hot 5w20 and cold 5w20. All arguments that any engine can only handle a single viscosity are bunk, with a very, very, few exceptions, that have nothing to do with passage size or tolerances.
If you are stock and dont beat it, what it calls for is fine. But if its hot, dirty, or you beat on it or work it, there is nothing wrong with using a heavier hot grade to be safe. They DO provide better boundary lubrication and shear resistance. 0w and 5w are still best for cold flow of course, but the strawmanning arguments over operating viscosity by the sheep who cant believe that the engineers sometimes get second say in things when politics come into play need to stop...
If you are stock and dont beat it, what it calls for is fine. But if its hot, dirty, or you beat on it or work it, there is nothing wrong with using a heavier hot grade to be safe. They DO provide better boundary lubrication and shear resistance. 0w and 5w are still best for cold flow of course, but the strawmanning arguments over operating viscosity by the sheep who cant believe that the engineers sometimes get second say in things when politics come into play need to stop...
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