Run 0W-40 in a car requiring 5W-30?

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Edge 0W-40 in my Tacoma requiring 5W-30, I don't notice any difference in performance between the two grades.
 
I dont think it will make a difference. If your car calls for 5w30 or 10w30, you can use 0w30. You wont have any issue using 0w40, but it wont solve any perceived problems you are having. Give it some time with the new oil before passing judgement. It might also be something not related to oil.
 
Originally Posted By: johnchui1984
Thank you everyone I am going to use the Castrol/Exxon 0W40 to see if there is any difference on engine performance. Will report back around late December~mid Jan

How exactly are you defining and measuring "engine performance"?
 
Originally Posted By: johnchui1984
Thank you everyone I am going to use the Castrol/Exxon 0W40 to see if there is any difference on engine performance. Will report back around late December~mid Jan


Just curious, what oil is that?

Again, you have shaking under 25 mph then it stops. Your engine and especially oiling system doesn't know how fast you are going. It knows load and RPM. What DOES know speed related shuddering would be a CVT, possibly motor mounts etc. I just wish you'd save the $40 you are about to spend on this oil change and put it towards a mechanic's diagnosis. Are you still under warranty with a 2016? Assuming you don't do 60k miles a year, let Nissan keep the car for a few days to see if they can replicate it.
 
Originally Posted By: johnchui1984
Thank you everyone I am going to use the Castrol/Exxon 0W40 to see if there is any difference on engine performance. Will report back around late December~mid Jan


Castrol and Exxon are 2 different companies.

Exxon and Mobil are together
 
Hi The car currently has 40000 miles in it and still under warranty but the dealer said they cant find anything wrong. I switch from conventional oil/dexos gen 1 to a dexos gen 2 (Castrol Magnatec) and it improves the symptoms indeed. I just wanna try the 0W40 to see if it iron out the issue because I am due an oil change soon. The CVT should be fine I guess? The CVT fluid, drive belt and radiator cap were changed at 30000 miles. You mentioned engine mount and what is the typical interval for replacing that? Again thanks for your reply
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Originally Posted By: johnchui1984
Dear SR5, where did you get the Valvoline 0W40? I couldnt find them on Walmart/Amazon

G'day Mate, the Valvoline SynPower 0W40 is very common in Australia, but I hear less so in North America.

In NA I would probably go for M1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40.

Having said all that, I too find Castrol Magnatec very smooth, as you do.

Have you tried running higher octane petrol (gas), it's quick and easy to try, and it may just fix your issues. It may be a bit of pre-ignition when the CVT is caught between two gear choices at a particular RPM & MPH combo. This can happen if the engine ignition advance doesn't quite work with the RPM selected by the gear box (too high gear). A slight increase in fuel octane should fix this miss-match easy.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Most people think that thin oil provides better protection because it gets to the top of the engine faster when you turn the key.


Most people are wrong ... As long as it's liquid, it all gets there the same. Positive displacement pumps don't play favorites
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Because there are no elastomer seals … they can even be a hair more efficient with some viscosity
 
The County RR's like this I still see mobbing around up here. I love the aluminum construction of some of the panels. The 3.9 aluminum Buick based engines are great but you have to watch for corrosion damage occasionally on them. You always hear about the scary electricals but if you have the nerve, go for it.


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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Most people think that thin oil provides better protection because it gets to the top of the engine faster when you turn the key.


Most people are wrong ... As long as it's liquid, it all gets there the same. Positive displacement pumps don't play favorites
laugh.gif

I'll agree with the most people are misinformed, especially when you consider the time if at all the oil takes to travel from the sump to the pump. This is where the proper choice of starting viscosity [xW-] comes into play during severe cold.
 
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