I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
0W-20 for Texas winters/summers good?
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Nothing bad will happen with 0w-20, but it's not optimal in TX. Since you are out of warranty, at least use a 5w-20, or better yet, a 5w30. In TX the "0" will never benefit you.
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
I agree with the poster above me, I'd run a 5W30 year round. Thanks for your service!
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
I agree with the poster above me, I'd run a 5W30 year round. Thanks for your service!
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Nothing bad will happen with 0w-20, but it's not optimal in TX. Since you are out of warranty, at least use a 5w-20, or better yet, a 5w30. In TX the "0" will never benefit you.
I think our cars benefited a little when we used 0W-20 on long road trips. I noticed a significant improvement in gas mileage on highway runs, smoother idle and of course faster warm up/flow times in the winter season vs using 5W. I just hope it didn't shear or at least have better protection during last summer in NC before I moved back to TX.
Nothing bad will happen with 0w-20, but it's not optimal in TX. Since you are out of warranty, at least use a 5w-20, or better yet, a 5w30. In TX the "0" will never benefit you.
I think our cars benefited a little when we used 0W-20 on long road trips. I noticed a significant improvement in gas mileage on highway runs, smoother idle and of course faster warm up/flow times in the winter season vs using 5W. I just hope it didn't shear or at least have better protection during last summer in NC before I moved back to TX.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
I agree with the poster above me, I'd run a 5W30 year round. Thanks for your service!
You're welcome and I appreciate your support. The 2AZ-FE motors from Toyota area a funky one and the CAFE regulations didn't make it better. Before '07 they are speed for 5w30. After that like mine currently with upped compression and oil squirters, they are speed for 5/0W-20.
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
I agree with the poster above me, I'd run a 5W30 year round. Thanks for your service!
You're welcome and I appreciate your support. The 2AZ-FE motors from Toyota area a funky one and the CAFE regulations didn't make it better. Before '07 they are speed for 5w30. After that like mine currently with upped compression and oil squirters, they are speed for 5/0W-20.
5 or 10w30
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
I agree with the poster above me, I'd run a 5W30 year round. Thanks for your service!
You're welcome and I appreciate your support. The 2AZ-FE motors from Toyota area a funky one and the CAFE regulations didn't make it better. Before '07 they are speed for 5w30. After that like mine currently with upped compression and oil squirters, they are speed for 5/0W-20.
Yes they made some tweaks. I still think in your climate a 30 grade oil is a better choice. Opinions are going to vary, that's mine.
After a lot of research, and speaking with experts about the topic a 30 grade oil was the winner. I changed two of my 5W20 spec'd vehicles to 5W30 with no regrets. NY winters are much colder and NY summers certainly not as hot as a Texas summer. Both vehicles are doing great.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing used oil analysis for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
I agree with the poster above me, I'd run a 5W30 year round. Thanks for your service!
You're welcome and I appreciate your support. The 2AZ-FE motors from Toyota area a funky one and the CAFE regulations didn't make it better. Before '07 they are speed for 5w30. After that like mine currently with upped compression and oil squirters, they are speed for 5/0W-20.
Yes they made some tweaks. I still think in your climate a 30 grade oil is a better choice. Opinions are going to vary, that's mine.
After a lot of research, and speaking with experts about the topic a 30 grade oil was the winner. I changed two of my 5W20 spec'd vehicles to 5W30 with no regrets. NY winters are much colder and NY summers certainly not as hot as a Texas summer. Both vehicles are doing great.
+1 10w30 synthetic like PP, it usually has lower NOACK which is desirable in high temp environments. 10w30 is not thick oil and will flow and protect well in any temps you encounter year round in TX.
Interesting things about climate. Most engines have large enough cooling systems to keep their engine at the same temp regardless of ambient temperature. At 100 F driving in Houston, my engine temp was 210 F. At -30 F up in Edmonton, it was at 210 F. Except for the cold starting issue, climate is not that big of an issue. Folks with oil temp gauges have shown the variations in oil temperature are not huge regardless of ambient temp. If you have a marginal cooling system or plugged up rad, it’s another issue. But I would go far enough to run 5w30 year round instead of 0w20.
Now for 40 weight Aussies to chime in.
Now for 40 weight Aussies to chime in.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Nothing bad will happen with 0w-20, but it's not optimal in TX. Since you are out of warranty, at least use a 5w-20, or better yet, a 5w30. In TX the "0" will never benefit you.
I think our cars benefited a little when we used 0W-20 on long road trips. I noticed a significant improvement in gas mileage on highway runs, smoother idle and of course faster warm up/flow times in the winter season vs using 5W. I just hope it didn't shear or at least have better protection during last summer in NC before I moved back to TX.
You won't notice any difference between 0-20 and 5-20.
Not better mpg
Not faster warmup
Not smoother idle
If you're seeing those things then it's certainly not oil related.
I'm in N.TeX and use 5-20 in my wife's Galant year round and never any issue.
No need for different grades for the seasons. That's a Yankee or California thing it seems.
My .02
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Nothing bad will happen with 0w-20, but it's not optimal in TX. Since you are out of warranty, at least use a 5w-20, or better yet, a 5w30. In TX the "0" will never benefit you.
I think our cars benefited a little when we used 0W-20 on long road trips. I noticed a significant improvement in gas mileage on highway runs, smoother idle and of course faster warm up/flow times in the winter season vs using 5W. I just hope it didn't shear or at least have better protection during last summer in NC before I moved back to TX.
You won't notice any difference between 0-20 and 5-20.
Not better mpg
Not faster warmup
Not smoother idle
If you're seeing those things then it's certainly not oil related.
I'm in N.TeX and use 5-20 in my wife's Galant year round and never any issue.
No need for different grades for the seasons. That's a Yankee or California thing it seems.
My .02
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
Interesting things about climate. Most engines have large enough cooling systems to keep their engine at the same temp regardless of ambient temperature. At 100 F driving in Houston, my engine temp was 210 F. At -30 F up in Edmonton, it was at 210 F. Except for the cold starting issue, climate is not that big of an issue. Folks with oil temp gauges have shown the variations in oil temperature are not huge regardless of ambient temp. If you have a marginal cooling system or plugged up rad, it’s another issue. But I would go far enough to run 5w30 year round instead of 0w20.
Now for 40 weight Aussies to chime in.
If outside temp doesn't matter then why do they put heat range on the oil selection chart?
Interesting things about climate. Most engines have large enough cooling systems to keep their engine at the same temp regardless of ambient temperature. At 100 F driving in Houston, my engine temp was 210 F. At -30 F up in Edmonton, it was at 210 F. Except for the cold starting issue, climate is not that big of an issue. Folks with oil temp gauges have shown the variations in oil temperature are not huge regardless of ambient temp. If you have a marginal cooling system or plugged up rad, it’s another issue. But I would go far enough to run 5w30 year round instead of 0w20.
Now for 40 weight Aussies to chime in.
If outside temp doesn't matter then why do they put heat range on the oil selection chart?
wemay
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OP,
In a healthy engine, 0w20, 5w30, 5w20 or 10w30 will all work just fine. This is really a personal choice since you will undoubtedly notice no benefits or detrimental effects with any of them. This includes MPG and total miles achieved.
In a healthy engine, 0w20, 5w30, 5w20 or 10w30 will all work just fine. This is really a personal choice since you will undoubtedly notice no benefits or detrimental effects with any of them. This includes MPG and total miles achieved.
Doesn't it matter if you have an engine oil cooler? or some heat exchanger to control oil temps. Once added then oil temp should be normalized, thus allowing 0W20 over a larger range of engine loading. Without it and then I'd think you'd need to start thinking about using a heavier weight as engine loading goes up.
I do have to admit to preferring 0W30 in my late model Toyota's. I think they run a bit more quiet. And it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling that it's not water thin oil.
I do have to admit to preferring 0W30 in my late model Toyota's. I think they run a bit more quiet. And it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling that it's not water thin oil.
Originally Posted By: supton
Doesn't it matter if you have an engine oil cooler? or some heat exchanger to control oil temps. Once added then oil temp should be normalized, thus allowing 0W20 over a larger range of engine loading. Without it and then I'd think you'd need to start thinking about using a heavier weight as engine loading goes up.
Oil temperatures are much more affected by RPM than loading...by a long way.
Doesn't it matter if you have an engine oil cooler? or some heat exchanger to control oil temps. Once added then oil temp should be normalized, thus allowing 0W20 over a larger range of engine loading. Without it and then I'd think you'd need to start thinking about using a heavier weight as engine loading goes up.
Oil temperatures are much more affected by RPM than loading...by a long way.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: supton
Doesn't it matter if you have an engine oil cooler? or some heat exchanger to control oil temps. Once added then oil temp should be normalized, thus allowing 0W20 over a larger range of engine loading. Without it and then I'd think you'd need to start thinking about using a heavier weight as engine loading goes up.
Oil temperatures are much more affected by RPM than loading...by a long way.
Is it? Did not know that. Certainly would not have guessed that.
Still. Wouldn't an oil cooler normalize temps, regardless, until the temperature in the bearing goes above some point? Control initial temperature going in, and thus you can allow a thinner oil for longer.
Originally Posted By: supton
Doesn't it matter if you have an engine oil cooler? or some heat exchanger to control oil temps. Once added then oil temp should be normalized, thus allowing 0W20 over a larger range of engine loading. Without it and then I'd think you'd need to start thinking about using a heavier weight as engine loading goes up.
Oil temperatures are much more affected by RPM than loading...by a long way.
Is it? Did not know that. Certainly would not have guessed that.
Still. Wouldn't an oil cooler normalize temps, regardless, until the temperature in the bearing goes above some point? Control initial temperature going in, and thus you can allow a thinner oil for longer.
Coolers definitely control operational viscosity.
I like the coolant ones that heat the oil on the way up as well.
My L67 (Supercharged 3.8) Caprice (no cooler), I could pull over with the engine cut and drop a type K thermocouple down the dipstick tube into the oil.
100km/h, and in D, about 1,800RPM it was 95C give or take. Same road, same road load, in "2" so only variable is RPM I could get over 130C
I like the coolant ones that heat the oil on the way up as well.
My L67 (Supercharged 3.8) Caprice (no cooler), I could pull over with the engine cut and drop a type K thermocouple down the dipstick tube into the oil.
100km/h, and in D, about 1,800RPM it was 95C give or take. Same road, same road load, in "2" so only variable is RPM I could get over 130C
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
Interesting things about climate. Most engines have large enough cooling systems to keep their engine at the same temp regardless of ambient temperature. At 100 F driving in Houston, my engine temp was 210 F. At -30 F up in Edmonton, it was at 210 F. Except for the cold starting issue, climate is not that big of an issue. Folks with oil temp gauges have shown the variations in oil temperature are not huge regardless of ambient temp. If you have a marginal cooling system or plugged up rad, it’s another issue. But I would go far enough to run 5w30 year round instead of 0w20.
Now for 40 weight Aussies to chime in.
If outside temp doesn't matter then why do they put heat range on the oil selection chart?
Those old school charts still show up in Russia and Easter Europe but not much in new car owners manuals in the USA.
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
Interesting things about climate. Most engines have large enough cooling systems to keep their engine at the same temp regardless of ambient temperature. At 100 F driving in Houston, my engine temp was 210 F. At -30 F up in Edmonton, it was at 210 F. Except for the cold starting issue, climate is not that big of an issue. Folks with oil temp gauges have shown the variations in oil temperature are not huge regardless of ambient temp. If you have a marginal cooling system or plugged up rad, it’s another issue. But I would go far enough to run 5w30 year round instead of 0w20.
Now for 40 weight Aussies to chime in.
If outside temp doesn't matter then why do they put heat range on the oil selection chart?
Those old school charts still show up in Russia and Easter Europe but not much in new car owners manuals in the USA.
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