07 Mazda 6 - 4 cyl - my nemisis

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Try a OEM passenger side motor mount. On a Ford Focus (many with the same engine as your 6), aftermarket mounts just do not hold up. I suspect yours is similar, as Ford and Mazda worked together. The shop used a NAPA Mount in my Focus, warrantied out as worn after 7-8 months.
 

Chester11

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Hey boys: Someone asked for visual data. Attached is the idle speed PID graphed. It's warm, in drive, and the vibration is present. Spec - according to my online shop manual is 700 +/- 50. Appreciate the help - I understand the recommendation to use the OEM passenger side mount. The problem is it is expensive, and difficult to source. (~$160 from a online source I have used before, but they do not guarantee that it is available). I replaced the mount last weekend with a NAPA part as a last ditch effort before taking it to a shop. The old mount was slightly worn (not leaking fluid). My concern is that not fixing the underlying issue (assuming there is one) will just destroy the mount. Thanks for the help.

IMG_2764.JPG
 
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The numbers you are getting look fine to me. As for the mount, what about a scrap yard? They will warranty defective parts for a short period of time and you can be choosy about the one you get an how it looks. Maybe an economical option to prove this?
 

Chester11

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No joy at the junkyard either. There is one u-pull lot that I could try, but it's about an hour away. I should just bite the bullet and pay.
 
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Originally Posted by Chester11
No joy at the junkyard either. There is one u-pull lot that I could try, but it's about an hour away. I should just bite the bullet and pay.
It sucks to fire the parts cannon at it. Is the vibration any better parked facing up a hill / down a hill without the emergency brake applied? Also you could try applying a floor jack gently to the oil pan. Not enough to jack the car up but just enough to relieve stress on the engine and see if the vibration gets better. (Just a gentle nudge to the oil pan or transmission casing and stop as soon as you see the engine/trans move up slightly and hold it there. Start the engine first before doing this so it doesn't rock back/forth on the floor jack)
 
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Chester11

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I'll give that a shot. Good tip. It's about the same with the brake on - that is how I justified changing it - with brake on under a bit of throttle the motor did a pretty good dip. A slight downward decline (nose down) makes the vibration worse / more pronounced. Funny thing is, the new cheap mount did fix the rough shift I was feeling, but has not done anything for the vibration. I am starting to hate this car. I did find another source for the OEM part - $124. I would hate to pay and not fix the problem. Changing the part is easy - 10 minute job.
 
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You will get to the bottom of it and I know you're frustrated. I've been there and with my OCD it's a really big problem for me when I'm encountering this sort of thing. I totally get it. Hang in there. A minor change in the vibration pointing upward/downward is normal especially when the grade is steep, but a major change would indicate a problem with a mount but there is also the up/down direction for a mount which is why I suggested trying the floor jack to nudge it in these directions. Failing all this see if there is a parts retailer that will take the OEM mount back if you put it in and this isn't the problem.
 
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