06 Hyundai Elantra cranks without starting. Has spark.

Give it a tablespoon of fuel down the throat. See if it fires.

My really good question here is how to determine if its the regulator or the fuel pump?

If you actually can distinguish between the two with a pressure gauge, I'd give it a try. If a fuel pressure gauge is around the same price as a regulator, I'd buy and install a new regulator.

If its not the regulator, then it has to be the pump.. Right guys? I guess if you had a decent scanner with a live feed you could test a few sensors that control air / fuel ratio..
 
I hope your brother is prepared to help you out too. My brother just expects me to work on his cars, the only reason I do it is to see my niece while I'm there.
 
My really good question here is how to determine if its the regulator or the fuel pump?

If you actually can distinguish between the two with a pressure gauge, I'd give it a try. If a fuel pressure gauge is around the same price as a regulator, I'd buy and install a new regulator.

If its not the regulator, then it has to be the pump.. Right guys? I guess if you had a decent scanner with a live feed you could test a few sensors that control air / fuel ratio..
If you hook up the fuel pressure gauge and power up the pump, it should build pressure to spec. If it can't reach the minimum pressure at all, it is likely a defective pump. Defective regulators will allow significant fluctuations outside the acceptable pressure range when the engine is running or allow built up pump pressure to rapidly bleed down below minimum tolerance when the pump is de-energized.

You can borrow a fuel pressure gauge kit from Autozone, O'Reilly's or Advance Auto Parts through their loaner tool program for free.
 
My really good question here is how to determine if its the regulator or the fuel pump?

If you actually can distinguish between the two with a pressure gauge, I'd give it a try. If a fuel pressure gauge is around the same price as a regulator, I'd buy and install a new regulator.

If its not the regulator, then it has to be the pump.. Right guys? I guess if you had a decent scanner with a live feed you could test a few sensors that control air / fuel ratio..
I have replaced many more pumps than I have regulators.
 
Alright, nothing we've tried so far has worked. Filter, pressure regulator, pump, plugs. Got spark, injector pulse, pump primes and runs. It'll start with ether, but won't stay running unless you keep hitting the gas.

Only other things i can think of are cam Ave crank sensors.

Before anyone asks, no, i don't have a shop full of tools. I don't have thousands of dollars worth of diagnostic equipment. My only diagnostic equipment is a simple code reader (only displays or clears codes) and a stethoscope.
 
I'm just gonna throw some parts at you that can cause the same running condition on early 2000 fords.

IAC valve controls the idle speed and can cause the symptoms described. I've cleaned a few, without any real improvement.

MAF sensor meters the intake volume and is used for the air / fuel mix. I've never seen a bad one on a car before, I've had over 40 vehicles. It can be diagnosed using a scanner with a live feed function. The value the sensor reads is displayed and can be used to determine sensor failure.

TPS sensor is used to measure the position of the throttle valve, with sends an electrical value used by the PCM and control the air / fuel mixture.

ECT sensor is the coolant sensor which values sent can actually cause a rough running engine, but highly doubtful for your problem.

IAT intake air temperature sensor measures the temp of incoming air, and is also used to regulate the air fuel mixture

EGR valve Exhaust Gas recirculation valve can produce symptoms like yours.

This is all for a ford in 2002, I think the next thing you should do is beg, borrow, steal a scanner that can display live sensor function values. Use the net to get an idea of what values should be displayed normally, and find out if there are any clear ways to determine that a sensor is OOS and is failed or failing.

In the ford with an EGR valve, one of the solutions is to remove the valve and remove the carbon buildup that may be blocking the full travel of the valve sticking at in one position. A stuck or sticky valve usually has tons of carbon buildup inside that can be removed with throttle body cleaner, or my personal favorite brake cleaner.

Good luck! And seriously ask everyone you know if they know anyone with a decent scanner, and call all your local parts stores and ask if they're scanner provides live data monitoring.


When I was stumped a while ago, like 10 years, I purchased an expensive scanner because I could have spent that much easily throwing parts at the car. It worked well and I was able to figure out there were two sensors returning out of spec signals, the TPS and the ECT.


OR, you could always just take it to the dealer, the darkside. I actually would consider the dealer now, you've invested a bunch of time already, and future time spent may be not worth it, depending on how you value your time.
 
If not already done, you need to get the fuel pressure gauge test kit and evaluate the pressure in the fuel rail feeding the injectors. Years ago, I diagnosed a Ford Ranger for a friend who swore the fuel pump was good because we could hear the pump motor running. After hooking up the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure never exceeded 5 psi...far below the 30 - 45 psi acceptable range. When I pulled out the fuel pump assembly, the 2-inch section of fuel line connecting the pump impeller output to the upper outlet nipple barb fitting had disintegrated. The pump was fine, but was discharging 90% of the pressurized fuel back into the gas tank. 50 cents worth of fuel line and 2 band clamps fixed the issue. That was ~12 years ago and the Ranger still runs fine.
 
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