05 Honda Odyssey and Kreen

[electrolover]

i must have missed it, how many miles are on your engine bob?
here is one with 110k (at the time of pic) and its clean. i dont think a clean engine is too much to ask for..

 

[BobThe]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
i must have missed it, how many miles are on your engine bob?
here is one with 110k (at the time of pic) and its clean. i dont think a clean engine is too much to ask for..

Is that pict from your F150 I've been reading about? That looks pretty darn good.

The Ody has ~77k. We bought it with ~30k on the clock. It was running Mobil1 5W20, then 0W20 and I switched away from Mobil1 after I noticed a small amount of consumption (3/4 quart). I hadn't had that with any other Honda I have ever had so I switched it up to Edge 5W20 for the last 3 fills. I was following the OLM until I read Trav's post on the Ody he was working on cleaning up. That is when I looked at our for the first time and saw the varnish. I though continued Edge usage might clean it up but it hasn't. I then determined that I would use 3k OCI's (or less last time). At least until it is cleaned up and staying that way. After that I might bring it up to 5k.

I picked up 6 qts of Supertech 5W30 synthetic to use with the Kreen. My plan is to use it for 1000 miles (and refill with the extra as it needs it) and see how it looks. If it needs it again, I will repeat. Once it is clean, it will be getting PU 5W20 or 5W30. I will drink the "keep the motor factory clean" PU cool aid. That is what I am running in my CX7. If it comes back, I will change it up with Mobil1 EP...or redline...or something else someone here says is the ticket at the time.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: BobThe

Is that pict from your F150 I've been reading about? That looks pretty darn good.

The Ody has ~77k. We bought it with ~30k on the clock. It was running Mobil1 5W20, then 0W20 and I switched away from Mobil1 after I noticed a small amount of consumption (3/4 quart). I hadn't had that with any other Honda I have ever had so I switched it up to Edge 5W20 for the last 3 fills. I was following the OLM until I read Trav's post on the Ody he was working on cleaning up. That is when I looked at our for the first time and saw the varnish. I though continued Edge usage might clean it up but it hasn't. I then determined that I would use 3k OCI's (or less last time). At least until it is cleaned up and staying that way. After that I might bring it up to 5k.

I picked up 6 qts of Supertech 5W30 synthetic to use with the Kreen. My plan is to use it for 1000 miles (and refill with the extra as it needs it) and see how it looks. If it needs it again, I will repeat. Once it is clean, it will be getting PU 5W20 or 5W30. I will drink the "keep the motor factory clean" PU cool aid. That is what I am running in my CX7. If it comes back, I will change it up with Mobil1 EP...or redline...or something else someone here says is the ticket at the time.


thats my wifes explorer 4.0. its always had 3k ocis with dino except for a couple ocis with PP and one recently with QSTP(syn). lol i kreened it anyway

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/just-added-kreen-to-my-explorer.150249/

its amazing you have deposits while using M1!!! i dont think you can blame it on the oil, its either a mechanical problem or the OM over shot the oci rec. i think the main thing here is to shorten the OCI so the problem doesnt come back. Maybe 5k with PU will keep it clean

sounds like you have a good plan! post some after pics please!!!

 

[Johnny]

Since the OP said he replaced the PCV and it was crusty, leads me to believe it was not venting properly, and if the crankcase cannot vent, any oil will varnish up, including synthetics.

 

[electrolover]

good point johnny. i bet that was the problem

 

[Trav]

No doubt about that Johnny. This engine uses a strange bolt in PCV with very small openings, a total design failure IMHO.
20-25K or biannual change interval should be considered.

 

[BobThe]

The Kreen has arrived and the oil has been changed with Kreen added. Over the next week and a half it should get about 1k miles on it so I will be changing it again when I get back and see how it looks. If it still needs more cleaning, it will get another round.

 

[electrolover]

bob just add more kreen at 1000 miles and then change the oil at 2k. it worked really good for me.

any after pics wood be awesome!!

 

[BobThe]

I will post pictures of whatever it looks like at 1k.

And honestly, to do another oil change in 1k miles with Supertech syn 5w-30 is another $20 so I am no all too worried about that. I already have filters and another two quarts of it in my stash (just in case it uses some in the next 1k).

Heck, I already have PU 5w-30 on the shelf for when it's all clean...

 

[electrolover]

sounds like your set

 

[BobThe]

Just an update...
So after 1100 miles, it looks exactly the same under the filler cap with varnish and some crud on the bolt. The dipstick also stayed at the top the entire run. I thought the level would drop and the kreen vents through the PCV.

That got me thinking that maybe the PCV that has only been in there for 5-6k miles got plugged up as well. Sure enough, when I pulled it out it didn't make any noise when shook. The previous PCV was crusty when I changed it last time so maybe this new one got more garbage pushed up to it. Not sure. Either way, I replaced it again once I did this change with Kreen in it again.

I have enough Kreen to do four changes (on the second now) so we will see how it goes. Once I see something different under the cap (better or worse) I will post pictures.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BobThe
That got me thinking that maybe the PCV that has only been in there for 5-6k miles got plugged up as well. Sure enough, when I pulled it out it didn't make any noise when shook. The previous PCV was crusty when I changed it last time so maybe this new one got more garbage pushed up to it. Not sure. Either way, I replaced it again once I did this change with Kreen in it again.

I have enough Kreen to do four changes (on the second now) so we will see how it goes. Once I see something different under the cap (better or worse) I will post pictures.


Just be sure to use an OEM PCV valve, ask me how I know!

Thanks for the update!

 

[BobThe]

I am using a Wells part. Not a good idea?

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BobThe
I am using a Wells part. Not a good idea?


Not a good idea! PCV valves IMO are one of those parts that can cause all kinds of problems especially aftermarket parts. I had problems with two Fords over the years all of a sudden burning oil with an aftermarket PCV valve. As soon as I went back to a Motorcraft PCV valve it stopped. I might catch a few flames, but I'm not the only person who had problems with aftermarket PCV valves. Use the Honda part.

 

[BobThe]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: BobThe
I am using a Wells part. Not a good idea?


Not a good idea! PCV valves IMO are one of those parts that can cause all kinds of problems especially aftermarket parts. I had problems with two Fords over the years all of a sudden burning oil with an aftermarket PCV valve. As soon as I went back to a Motorcraft PCV valve it stopped. I might catch a few flames, but I'm not the only person who had problems with aftermarket PCV valves. Use the Honda part.


So I went to the Honda dealer and ordered an OEM PCV valve for $28.00. After it came in and I picked it up, I decided to compare it to the new Wells part I had on the shelf and it is identical to the OEM Honda. The markings are all the same, the Honda part number is on the Wells part as well. Everything about it looks identical.

Either way, I put the Honda part in. This time the Wells part that had been in still rattled when I removed it.

Pass #2 on Kreen did not seem to be cleaning any of the varnish up. Trav mentioned in another post that he noticed staining on other Ody engines that Kreen didn't clear up so perhaps that how our 05 is.

I have since changed the oil and this time I used Ultra by itself with no additional cleaners. I will run it for 3k OCI's for about the next 9-12k miles and see how it looks.

 

[demarpaint]

There is a difference between staining and varnish. Staining penetrates deeper into the metal and is something you are probably going to have to live with. Keep in mind too much cleaning is not a good idea.

 

[BobThe]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
There is a difference between staining and varnish. Staining penetrates deeper into the metal and is something you are probably going to have to live with. Keep in mind too much cleaning is not a good idea.


Exactly my thought as well. I don't want to clean it so much I kill it. It runs great and it is nice and quiet so I am going to live with it, keep up with the PCV and keep an eye on it. If it is stained, so be it.

 

[zyxelenator]

Posting pics would be nice.
I got original valve not so long ago also. It looks exact the same, just different color,but outside diameter is like 1 mm bigger and plastic feel more quality made. Both my previous valves were functioning, but not sure that they were doing it right.

 

[Trav]

Quote:
I decided to compare it to the new Wells part I had on the shelf and it is identical to the OEM Honda. The markings are all the same, the Honda part number is on the Wells part as well. Everything about it looks identical.



I have seen this lots of times with Wells, same markings and numbers as OEM delphi on a GM EVAP valve, the thing even had the same molding machine marks. I think Wells maybe just a re packager of OEM these days.

The 05 Honda i did was stained so deeply that only scrubbing with a very stiff parts brush and the most aggressive chemical would shift it.
I did note that on steel parts the varnish was gone so anything functional was clean. Problem was the passages were all plugged up with sludge also.
That poor thing was beyond the help of any additive.

The problem with aluminum is that it can be so porous that sometimes fluid can actually leak right through it leading to TSB's for case porosity.
This means varnish can be so deep in the pores that there is no real way to remove it easily in a running engine.
Even if the chemical softens it the oil must still be able to wash it away.
Maybe over a long period of time PU may actually shift it i don't know but i wouldn't worry about it if its running well.

I would say run the PU as you plan and keep that PCV changed once a year, use the Wells by all means if its the same part#, chances are it is OEM Honda.

 

[BobThe]

Do you think M1 5w30 HM would be a better choice than PU long term?