'03 Accord Timing Belt Scheduled Maintenance
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Absolutely !
Rubber belts deteriorate with time too , not only with use .
Rubber belts deteriorate with time too , not only with use .
On an '03? I was under the impression that they had timing chains, not belts.
About 6 mos. ago I had the timing belt replaced in my ’01 Civic that, at the time, only had about 36,000 miles. Be careful not to let the dealership up-sell you on all sorts of other (expensive) services that you may not actually need. My recommendation, too, is to have the water pump replaced while it’s all apart.
Unless you don’t care about swirl and toweling marks in the paint, don’t go for the after-repairs courtesy car wash. The dealership wash monkeys must have used a polyester towel with beach sand embedded it to wash and dry my Civic. Boy was I hopping mad when I picked it up afterwards!
Unless you don’t care about swirl and toweling marks in the paint, don’t go for the after-repairs courtesy car wash. The dealership wash monkeys must have used a polyester towel with beach sand embedded it to wash and dry my Civic. Boy was I hopping mad when I picked it up afterwards!
If it were my car I would wait till 80K miles to change it.
I remember riding in 2000 in an 91 Acura Integra with 55k miles and original timing belt with some relatives after a wedding. The car rolled to the side of the road dying. My cousin concluded snapped timing belt and unfortunately was right and $2000+ poorer beyond the tow.
Is this an interference engine?
Check to see if this is a non interference engine. {I believe it is)If this is the case, I would wait until at least 60K miles. My daughters 92 Integra (B18 engine) was changed at 92K miles at 9 years old and the belt looked like new. FWIW--Oldtommy--- PS I note the posting above shows that each individual situation can be different. Your engine is the K24 series which I beleve is non interference. (valves dont destroy the pistons)
I would absolutely change it. It's an interference engine and you're potentially looking at a very expensive repair if it goes. 7 years is long enough.
EDIT: this is assuming it's the V6. If it's the I-4, it has a chain. Since the manual is suggesting a change interval, I'm guessing you have the V-6.
EDIT: this is assuming it's the V6. If it's the I-4, it has a chain. Since the manual is suggesting a change interval, I'm guessing you have the V-6.
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Following up my post above, the 2.4L 4 cyl uses a timing chain, as noted. Therefore no replacement needed. The 3.0L V6 IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE! A broken belt would cause expensive repairs.(Reference from Gates timing belt web page) You pay your money and take your choice. FWIW--Oldtommy
At this rate of use, it would be another fourteen years before you reach the mileage interval for t-belt service.
You must have the V-6, since the '03 four cylinder (mom has one) has a chain, as well as a direction of rotation and engine orientation in the car that is backwards relative to every previous Honda, except the S2000.
Anyway, I might go another year or two, but the consequences of belt failure will be catastrophic.
Do you feel lucky?
Also, ignore the dealer, and find a good indie.
May not be cheaper, but I like talking directly to a real mechanic, not a service writer, and a guy who can support his own shop is usually pretty good.
You must have the V-6, since the '03 four cylinder (mom has one) has a chain, as well as a direction of rotation and engine orientation in the car that is backwards relative to every previous Honda, except the S2000.
Anyway, I might go another year or two, but the consequences of belt failure will be catastrophic.
Do you feel lucky?
Also, ignore the dealer, and find a good indie.
May not be cheaper, but I like talking directly to a real mechanic, not a service writer, and a guy who can support his own shop is usually pretty good.
With my 1996 Contour I went 65,000 miles and 11 years before I had the timing belt, water pump, tensioner guides and the serpentine belt and it's tensioner guides changed. I would periodically check the the belts for cracking on the ribbed side. There was none but I felt I more than got my money's worth and didn't want to court disaster.
Maybe living in temperate climate without extreme temps either way helps. Also for the most part it's life it was garaged for the winter in a "semi heated" garage.
Whimsey
Maybe living in temperate climate without extreme temps either way helps. Also for the most part it's life it was garaged for the winter in a "semi heated" garage.
Whimsey
Save your money! I had an 89 Probe that had its original timing belt for 220k after nearly 20 years!!! No reason to change it because you have less than 50k on one.
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
Save your money! I had an 89 Probe that had its original timing belt for 220k after nearly 20 years!!! No reason to change it because you have less than 50k on one.
Yeah right! It's not your car/engine so the risk is not on you ,buddy!
I'd replace it (just the belt, no need to worry about water pump at this moment) if I'm in OP's position.
Q.
Save your money! I had an 89 Probe that had its original timing belt for 220k after nearly 20 years!!! No reason to change it because you have less than 50k on one.
Yeah right! It's not your car/engine so the risk is not on you ,buddy!
I'd replace it (just the belt, no need to worry about water pump at this moment) if I'm in OP's position.
Q.
Originally Posted By: Schmoe
Those belts are tough. I'd leave alone. When you do get it replaced, you should also replace the water pump and the other belts. I've never heard of anybody replacing thier belt earlier than 100K, regardless of age.
+1 thank you
Those belts are tough. I'd leave alone. When you do get it replaced, you should also replace the water pump and the other belts. I've never heard of anybody replacing thier belt earlier than 100K, regardless of age.
+1 thank you
I have an 04 Sebring with the Mitsubishi 2.4L. It currently only has 4,000 miles on it. The owners manual would have me change the belt. On that engine you can inspect the belt rather easily. It looks new,with no signs of aging or cracking.
I have seen other low mileage cars that have had cracking in the belt, thus neededing changing before the mileage is up.
So age can be a factor, but I would inspect the belt before I would replace it.
Now you could say that you can't tell a belt is about to break with a visual inspection.......
I have seen other low mileage cars that have had cracking in the belt, thus neededing changing before the mileage is up.
So age can be a factor, but I would inspect the belt before I would replace it.
Now you could say that you can't tell a belt is about to break with a visual inspection.......
I'd let it go to at least 60k, at this rate of driving. then check it.
The one you buy may have been sitting on the shelf for years - why is that possible deterioration not considered?
BTW, it is good practice to replace the idler and pulleys at the same time.
The one you buy may have been sitting on the shelf for years - why is that possible deterioration not considered?
BTW, it is good practice to replace the idler and pulleys at the same time.
Originally Posted By: A_A_G
Keep going, my sis 2001 Integra went 140k before the timing belt snapped (she didnt wanna spend the money to replace it). Towed her home, bought a belt at autozone and it started right back up. I was SHOCKED it still ran...
60k miles and Cousin's wife's similar year 1991 t-belt snapped. It turned into $2000 of head repairs and a car that never really ran properly after.
Keep going, my sis 2001 Integra went 140k before the timing belt snapped (she didnt wanna spend the money to replace it). Towed her home, bought a belt at autozone and it started right back up. I was SHOCKED it still ran...
60k miles and Cousin's wife's similar year 1991 t-belt snapped. It turned into $2000 of head repairs and a car that never really ran properly after.
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