02 stage 2+ wrx oil recommendations

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Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Oops, wasn't finished!

And I'm not saying that RT6 is not a good choice for turbocharged Subies. There are just a lot of choices these days when a lot of people thought RT6 was the only option for a robust oil a few years ago.

Thank you for your info! Having a tough time deciding. I've seen people state both oils are bad for your car lol. Just trying to get the best protection for my car. I've read motul is truly the best but it's expensive


Who is saying these oils are BAD for your car?

Car specific forums typically know nothing about oil. This is cold hard fact.

Go with Mobil 1. They have a rebate now too. I personally don't care about brands (see signature), but M1 is the only one with a nice rebate.
 
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Lol: I want to run motul but can't obviously find it around here and it's roughly $45 a jug on Amazon prime. Mobil 1 0w40 with rebate is $10 for a 5 at jug and $22 normally.

Dlund: I wasnt aware of the rebate, thank you for pointing that out!

To everyone the motor has 4k miles on it after rebuild. Current owner said he has M1 EP 5w30 in it now with 1k on the oil. Motor is still technically in rebuilders break in period so I'm changing the oil I put in at 1500 miles. Would it be harmful to do m1 0w40 until I get past the break in then switch to motul xcess? I don't want to spend $45 to change it in 1500 miles.
 
My break in oil changes took like 6 different oil changes in the first 1000mi on an Outfront Motorsports closed deck. You should follow what your engine builder recommends for engine break in.

It is okay to run Mobil 1 0w40 then switch to Motul. However, your suppose to run conventional oil on break in of a new Subaru motor or run any non-synthetic break in oil such as Motul or Amsoil Break In Oil. You want conventional to help seat the rings.
 
Is it going to hurt to switch to conventional now after the 5w30 ep has been in there? What conventional would be good for this car? Or should I just run synthetic now
 
What all is done during the rebuild? Since your car is already on synthetic then just stick with synthetic. If anything the piston rings will just take a bit longer to seat properly. A lot of engine braking and varying RPM will speed up the process.
 
Originally Posted By: Loi
What all is done during the rebuild? Since your car is already on synthetic then just stick with synthetic. If anything the piston rings will just take a bit longer to seat properly. A lot of engine braking and varying RPM will speed up the process.


I thought the reasoning behind using conventional during break in was to avoid wasting money on synth for really short OCIs.

Is there really a different in the way the rings seat for the two?
 
For a new build the OCI's are very short for the first 3 oil changes. My engine builder recommended conventional for initial break in to flush out the wear metals and to help seat the piston rings. I copy and pasted my break in oil procedure recommended by Outfront Motorsports and Off the Line Performance for their engine builds.

Fill with 5w30, no additive
Unplug crank sensor, crank engine 4 times about 20 seconds each to prime motor
Plug sensor back in and start car
Run 20 mins at 1500-2k rpm (cam break-in)
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Drive 20 miles, nice easy driving
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Do 30 pulls in 2nd gear, 2k-6k rpm, lots of engine braking and boost
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Drive normal/hard for 500 miles
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Drive 1k miles
Drain oil
Fill with 5w30 or 5w40, no more additive.
Drive 2k miles
Drain oil
Resume with Motul synthetic(at least 3k on motor)
 
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Originally Posted By: Loi
For a new build the OCI's are very short for the first 3 oil changes. My engine builder recommended conventional for initial break in to flush out the wear metals and to help seat the piston rings. I copy and pasted my break in oil procedure recommended by Outfront Motorsports and Off the Line Performance for their engine builds.

Fill with 5w30, no additive
Unplug crank sensor, crank engine 4 times about 20 seconds each to prime motor
Plug sensor back in and start car
Run 20 mins at 1500-2k rpm (cam break-in)
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Drive 20 miles, nice easy driving
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Do 30 pulls in 2nd gear, 2k-6k rpm, lots of engine braking and boost
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Drive normal/hard for 500 miles
Drain oil
Fill with Motul 10w40 Break in Oil or use 5w30 Conventional with Lucas break-in additive
Drive 1k miles
Drain oil
Fill with 5w30 or 5w40, no more additive.
Drive 2k miles
Drain oil
Resume with Motul synthetic(at least 3k on motor)


Very interesting info, thanks for sharing...that's a year and a half's worth of oil for me!
I'm surprised that the early cam break-in isn't done with a lot of ZDDP additive, but expect there are decades of experience behind the routine and this is a completely different world to me.
 
Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
Lol: I want to run motul but can't obviously find it around here and it's roughly $45 a jug on Amazon prime. Mobil 1 0w40 with rebate is $10 for a 5 at jug and $22 normally.

Dlund: I wasnt aware of the rebate, thank you for pointing that out!

To everyone the motor has 4k miles on it after rebuild. Current owner said he has M1 EP 5w30 in it now with 1k on the oil. Motor is still technically in rebuilders break in period so I'm changing the oil I put in at 1500 miles. Would it be harmful to do m1 0w40 until I get past the break in then switch to motul xcess? I don't want to spend $45 to change it in 1500 miles.

I think the first few hundred miles are probably most important when breaking in a new motor so if synthetic was used at break-in, I'm not sure that switching to conventional now would accomplish anything.
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Builders have pretty strict guidelines for break-in and will likely not honor a warranty if their break-in procedure was not followed. Break-in oil recommendations vary and I do seem to recall that some builders even recommend RT6 for break-in. They are more concerned about ZDDP levels instead of whether or not an oil is "synthetic".
 
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