‘02 F150 Brake overhaul question

[Twisted1]

Hey all. I’ll be replacing all of the calipers, brake lines, and brake pads on my truck. I’ll also be installing a new Motorcraft brake master cylinder (will be bench bled). My question is, is there a certain sequence I should install these parts? For example, do the calipers first and then master cylinder? Or vice a versa?

I ask so I can avoid chasing too many air bubbles in the system. I will be using my Motive Power brake bleeder and also have a Autel scanner to bleed the ABS if need be. Just wanted to ask if there is a preferred order in which to install these parts so I don’t have to go through a ton of brake fluid trying to chase air bubbles.

‘02 F150 SuperCrew w/210k miles

TIA

 

[ctechbob]

Assume you're talking about just the rubber flex lines?

 

[kebabaluba]

You can install them in the order you want, its the bleeding that needs to be done in correct order. You start bleeding brakes from right rear, then from left rear, then from right front and at last left front. Allways start bleeding from the furthest point away from master cylinder.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Order should not matter. As long as you bleed it correctly as stated above. Most vehicles want it to be with the one furthest away from the master cylinder first but make sure yours does because their has been a few that wanted a different order.

 

[2EHA]

You can install them in the order you want, its the bleeding that needs to be done in correct order. You start bleeding brakes from right rear, then from left rear, then from right front and at last left front. Allways start bleeding from the furthest point away from master cylinder.

sometimes it’s relative to the ABS unit, others make you start up front

 

[kebabaluba]

sometimes it’s relative to the ABS unit, others make you start up front

Could be on some specific or unusual cars but as a rule you would start from the rear, and also usually ABS module located near the master cylinder or inside the engine bay on most cars.

 

[cb_13]

Order of install does not matter just make sure you bleed in the correct sequence.

If you are already planning on replacing calipers I would look into an Expedition brake swap. The Expedition and 7700 series F150's had an improved front brake system with larger rotors than the typical 10th gen F150. You would need pads, calipers, rotors and caliper brackets for an Expedition or 7700 series of the same drive configuration as yours(2wd or 4x4).

 

[2EHA]

Could be on some specific or unusual cars but as a rule you would start from the rear, and also usually ABS module located near the master cylinder or inside the engine bay on

the 01-09 volvo S60 in your profile picture starts from the front. i remember doing it on my S60R, double bleeders on the brembos was pretty cool

 

[Twisted1]

Thanks for the tips guys. I always start bleeding in the sequence of how Ford calls for, but I think I didn’t ask my question correctly...

I’ve noticed a lot of times where guys in the “10th Gen F150” group on Facebook complain about doing a rotor/pad change and afterwards they end up with a spongy pedal. The bleed the system till they’re blue in the face, and finally figure out that they had to bench bleed the MC to get a normal brake pedal feel. Why that happens? I have no clue..

I want to make sure that after I bench bleed the MC and install all of the parts that I don’t run into the same issue and have to re-bench bleed the MC. I don’t know why or how that happens on these trucks but it has been a common issue when changing the brakes.

I have considered the Expy front brake swap but for the money that goes into it and hearing real life testimonials from the guys in the Facebook group, the improvement is very minimal. So I just went with Motorcraft’s Blue severe duty pads instead.

 

[cb_13]

Thanks for the tips guys. I always start bleeding in the sequence of how Ford calls for, but I think I didn’t ask my question correctly...

I’ve noticed a lot of times where guys in the “10th Gen F150” group on Facebook complain about doing a rotor/pad change and afterwards they end up with a spongy pedal. The bleed the system till they’re blue in the face, and finally figure out that they had to bench bleed the MC to get a normal brake pedal feel. Why that happens? I have no clue..

I want to make sure that after I bench bleed the MC and install all of the parts that I don’t run into the same issue and have to re-bench bleed the MC. I don’t know why or how that happens on these trucks but it has been a common issue when changing the brakes.

I have considered the Expy front brake swap but for the money that goes into it and hearing real life testimonials from the guys in the Facebook group, the improvement is very minimal. So I just went with Motorcraft’s Blue severe duty pads instead.

I saw a few brake systems as a tech that were brought in because either an independent shop, body shop or diy'er could not get them to bleed and blamed the HCU. I always found either calipers were installed with the bleeders down instead of up, the hoses were junk or just using the Vacula power bleeder took care of it.

 

[Kawiguy454]

I had same year truck my son now drives over 200k and never had problems you describe. Changing pads/rotors does not require opening the system so no bleed needed. As most have said bleeders UP if hoses or calipers are replaced. get a power bleeder at HF for $40 and NEVER let the MC run dry when pulling fluid. If replacing the entire system I would do MC first as it will introduce air. then farthest caliper/line working toward the MC bleeding each as i go should clear bubbles all the way to the front.

 

[Twisted1]

So after reading all of the advice I think I have the game plan down. I’ll change the pads, rotors, lines, and calipers, then I’ll install the new bench bled MC and bleed at the MC lines then bleed at the wheels with then normal sequence with my Motive power bleeder.