01 Tundra V8 (oil)

[BaW]

I have an 01 tundra v8, and i was thinking about changing the oil to full synthetic but i do have 77k miles on the truck the oil has been changed every 4-5k. I was wondering if it would be to late to change it now so should i just go for it. I am not looking for the long oil changes that to come with synthetic. i am just looking for a little bit more protection for the engine so it will last another 50-70k. Thanks guys

 

[buster]

Quote:

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I am not looking for the long oil changes that to come with synthetic. i am just looking for a little bit more protection for the engine so it will last another 50-70k

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You won't gain any protection just by using a synthetic. If you don't plan on extended drain intervals, just use regular oil. I would use Havoline.

 

[Lonnie]

In my V8 4Runner I use GC and I don't care that the engine is 'easy on oil' and would do fine on dyno. I drive 'em till they drop and do most of the maintenence myself. One other place to consider synthetic is the diff. I use Red Line there.

 

[Blue99]

UOA's have demonstrated that the Toyota V8's are indeed easy on oil. So you should probably make 150K miles using Walmart SuperTech in that engine.

But, for added insurance, a full synthetic with good solvency, such as 5W-30 M1 or Amsoil, will help reduce minor deposits & varnish.

 

[blackdiamond]

I ran Castrol Syntec in my 04 Tundra and then switched to Mobil 1, both seemed to perform great. Run an OCI with a blend oil first and see if you "find" any leaks and then make your choice.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Save the $$ and run any name brand SM conventional oil every 4-5k and you will have a engine which will last longer than you want it to.

We have a fleet of Tundras that see 20+ hours of use everyday. Tons of hours on idle and hard use. They get changed with iffy lube every 6-7k miles (if they are luckly) and not a single issue coming up to 100k miles.

They are well protected and have remained and will remain clean for their entire life.

IMO, you will be wasting the $$ running syn for only 4-5k.

Go down to Checkers and pick up a case of Havoline for 79 cents a quart this month. Run it 5k oci and your set!

Take care, Bill

 

[INDYMAC]

I have a '00 Tundra V-8 with 129K miles and have run synthetic (group III) only since 17K miles with 5K OCI's. The only UOA's that I've done have been with ML syn and PP 5W30 oils. Both produce similar wear metal numbers on UOA's, but the ML syn is thicker at 210degF. The only flagged metal that I see is lead on the UOA's. They read anywhere from 10-12 ppm, where as much younger 2UZ-FE engines show 0-2 ppm. So either my bearings are starting to show their age, or my habitual use of Techron FI cleaner might have been a factor. I've eliminated Techron until I do another UOA, so we'll see how that affects lead.
What I would suggest to you is do a UOA on whatever dino you have in there now when you switch over. Then after a couple of OCI's of whichever synthetic you choose, do another UOA. I think the results of the 2 UOA's will give you something worthwhile to justify your choice.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Quote:

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I have a '00 Tundra V-8 with 129K miles and have run synthetic (group III) only since 17K miles with 5K OCI's. The only UOA's that I've done have been with ML syn and PP 5W30 oils. Both produce similar wear metal numbers on UOA's, but the ML syn is thicker at 210degF. The only flagged metal that I see is lead on the UOA's. They read anywhere from 10-12 ppm, where as much younger 2UZ-FE engines show 0-2 ppm. So either my bearings are starting to show their age, or my habitual use of Techron FI cleaner might have been a factor. I've eliminated Techron until I do another UOA, so we'll see how that affects lead.
What I would suggest to you is do a UOA on whatever dino you have in there now when you switch over. Then after a couple of OCI's of whichever synthetic you choose, do another UOA. I think the results of the 2 UOA's will give you something worthwhile to justify your choice.

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I would say the fuel cleaner is your problem with the lead.

EXCELLENT suggestion with running both and proving which runs better and having the data with the UOAs if your going to switch!

One of these days, I'm going to take a sample container and get a UOA on one of our work trucks. It would be interesting to see whats going on with all the idling and hard use..

Take care, Bill

 

[JohnBrowning]

Go ahead and switch it over to synthetic if you want to. Doing a 5 minute oil flush would be fine as well. I would recomend Mobil-1 since it does so well in all Toyota's. You could use any brand you like though!

 

[Hong_Kong_Phooey]

i have run supertech 5w30 dino for 100k in my tundra. with 140k now, i guess it will self destruct in 10k.
funny, seems to run perfectly