'01 Ford Ranger 10250 & 77000 miles Redline 5w20

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I assumed this engine was designed for 5w20. Now if it was only back specified for it, I might be willing to go with a 30 weight, but again, with the HTHS of Redline 5w20, what is the need to go to a 30 weight?

Redline is great oil and good for extended drain within reason. I just took it too far. No big deal. Worth it for the discussion. We'll see the next report at lower miles, same oil, probably about March/April 2013.
 
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I assumed this engine was designed for 5w20. Now if it was only back specified for it, I might be willing to go with a 30 weight, but again, with the HTHS of Redline 5w20, what is the need to go to a 30 weight?

Redline is great oil and good for extended drain within reason. I just took it too far. No big deal. Worth it for the discussion. We'll see the next report at lower miles, same oil, probably about March/April 2013.


Look at the UOA and remember Ford back speced the required oil only for fuel consumption reasons and the data has not been independently checked. The Germans push engines much harder than in the US and no Ford dealer can use a 5 or 0/20 in this particular old engine. It has to be a 5 or 0/30 as per the LM info sheet. The UOA viscosity has sheared out of top spec and although I don't have the range info under my nose at present I think the OP is in fact using 5/15 at 10K miles. This is a small truck and lots of folks tow with them and any oil approvals should be good for max continous power in summer. A 20 weight is OK in viscosity terms as a finish point and it could be that a 30 weight oil will shear that far if used a bit too long. 5/30 is much better for longer OCI's even if it cause the Ford accountant some grief over a fuel burn increase that will cost the same as the top up oil difference.
 
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Originally Posted By: bluesubie
There are quite a few older threads about Red Line and low TBN's. Here's one:

Originally Posted By: White Fang
I had Terry analyze the report and I don't think he would mind me saying that he feels the Redline is still using itself up cleaning the engine. Under the Blackstone scale the oil still has plenty of residual TAN he says.


From this Mazda 626 uoa wth 6k miles on RL 10W-30. TBN = zero.

-Dennis


Interesting UOA as the Copper is too high, looks like chewed bearings. TBN of 1 is the absolute minimum safe figure if you feel lucky. I can understand why Redline is not popular as it seems to best suited to the 3K Iffy lube places.
 
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
There are quite a few older threads about Red Line and low TBN's. Here's one:

Originally Posted By: White Fang
I had Terry analyze the report and I don't think he would mind me saying that he feels the Redline is still using itself up cleaning the engine. Under the Blackstone scale the oil still has plenty of residual TAN he says.


From this Mazda 626 uoa wth 6k miles on RL 10W-30. TBN = zero.

-Dennis



From that thread JohnBrowning says:
Quote:
We also know that Redline is good at a TBN of 1-2 and that Blackstones TBN method is 1-2 points lower then everyone else! So this means that Rdline can be safely run down to a TBN of 0 by BlackStones method and still be just fine!


Which means I am fine as the metals were not that high (comparable to 27 iron two times in a row on 5000-mile OCIs). Still, no need to push things, 7000-8000 miles may be the conservative limit for this oil in my engine.

As for cleaing the engine, I have never had an engine that put out such clean blotters. At 5000 miles I could barely make out a ring in the blotter, and even at 10,250 there is no ring, but the oil is darker. Compare my wife's Mountaineer 4.0 blotter looks worse at 500 miles than mine did at 8000.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Is Ford oil made by Mobil?? The Ford dealers use Mobil in Germany, but no idea about the US, as they have their own label.


Conoco Phillips makes motorcraft oil in the US. I know ford uses Castrol in Europe a lot. XOM makes motorcraft in Canada.
 
Redline is known to clean very well, and have very 'different' chemistry....a first run after 75k of conventional oils producing these results is not suprising.....
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Redline is known to clean very well, and have very 'different' chemistry....a first run after 75k of conventional oils producing these results is not suprising.....
Good point. This extra long run may help get a cleaner read on the next Redline OCI at 6000 miles.
 
I just discovered my crankcase is pressurized when I pulled the oil fill cap with the engine running and the engine got louder and the air/gas mix coming out the oil fill hole was pretty substantial, about like you would feel if you put your hand in front of the tailpipe. It's a wonder I didn't blow out some seals. I would guess it is the PCV valve and am taking it into the shop Friday to get that replaced (don't laugh, the standard procedure to change this PCV valve is to pull the intake manifold). Anyway, could this have affected my oil, perhaps be responsible for the low TBN?
 
I tested it with a balloon. Pulled the fresh air inlet line (intake to valve cover) off the intake and put a balloon over it. I got suction. Pulled the hose off at the valve cover and also got suction. Pulled the oil cap off and stretched the balloon over it. Nothing, neither suction nor pressure. I think there is nothing wrong. Here is my theory:

My oil cap is about 1.5 inches over the cam lobes. At idle they are whipping around at about 400 rpm and so will be throwing a lot of oil and making turbulent air which is huffing in and out the oil fill hole (and making a blow across a coke bottle noise) only because it is an extra space for it to go. Still would not hurt to check that PVC valve but it can wait for a regularly scheduled maintenance stop at the repair shop.

I wondered why the Mountaineer didn't make the noise or have the puffing out the fill hole. Well I looked at it and the filler neck is about 8 inches long and canted off the end of the valve cover, so away from the cam lobes and their air whipping action.

Additionally, looking down the hole where my fresh air hose connects to the valve cover, I saw a plate separating that from the camshaft, so no huffing.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
It's real simple.....You ran it too far for your application. Try 5,000.
Oh I don't know. Here is a guy who ran Redline for over 15,000 miles with very good results. I believe the cleaning theory is more on target. I have a second batch of Redline in now and about 2500 miles on it, so about May I think I'll have another report. After that I am going to try Amsoil Signature Series 5w20. Engine should be nice and clean for the Amsoil.
 
.

[/quote] .
Op. For what that oil costs I wonder if a conventional would do as well for less money. [/quote]

That. C'mon. Its a twelve year old Ford Ranger. It pulled a mediocre report with high-dollar boutique oil after 10K miles. The percentage play is to use plain oil every 5k miles. Its about 99.3% certain that that will work, and you never have to pay for an analysis again.
 
Paulie........redlining the 2.3 in a Ranger-----you should be ashamed of yourself
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
No matter how many times people say Redline is an extended drain oil on here, the company themselves do no promote the product in such a manner and the UOA's support this. It is an excellent lubricant in terms of standing up to high heat conditions. But it is NOT an extended drain lubricant, so the TBN here isn't surprising in the least.

You want extended drain you go with AMSOIL or M1 EP.


Very true, Redline is more of a race oil with a lot of Moly and a good dose of Zinc, so it would provide good results over a short OCI, but the detergents and dispersants don't seem to hold up in long OCI's, so it would be much better to use a major brand oil designed for long OCI's like Castrol Edge or Mobil 1.
I don't think Ford were designing SUV engines for 5/20 in 2001, so I would think about moving up to a 0 or 5/30 if you want to do long OCI's. This engine is listed in the EU for a variety of oil grades from a 5/20 to a 5/40, so you can take your pick what you use as it's not a fussy engine in oil terms.
 
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I have added RL with a M1 EP in the past. This may give you the insurance for longer OCI. My purpose was to try to get the extra cleaning.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I assumed this engine was designed for 5w20. Now if it was only back specified for it, I might be willing to go with a 30 weight, but again, with the HTHS of Redline 5w20, what is the need to go to a 30 weight?

Redline is great oil and good for extended drain within reason. I just took it too far. No big deal. Worth it for the discussion. We'll see the next report at lower miles, same oil, probably about March/April 2013.


Look at the UOA and remember Ford back speced the required oil only for fuel consumption reasons and the data has not been independently checked. The Germans push engines much harder than in the US and no Ford dealer can use a 5 or 0/20 in this particular old engine. It has to be a 5 or 0/30 as per the LM info sheet. The UOA viscosity has sheared out of top spec and although I don't have the range info under my nose at present I think the OP is in fact using 5/15 at 10K miles. This is a small truck and lots of folks tow with them and any oil approvals should be good for max continous power in summer. A 20 weight is OK in viscosity terms as a finish point and it could be that a 30 weight oil will shear that far if used a bit too long. 5/30 is much better for longer OCI's even if it cause the Ford accountant some grief over a fuel burn increase that will cost the same as the top up oil difference.


I see that at this point of time you where not educated on HTHS properties of redline oils. With a HTHS of 3.3 redline at operating temperatures is "thicker" than many 30 grade pcmo's. M-1EP 5W-30 has a HTHS of 3.0 which is less viscous at operating temps than redline 5W20. This is a normal report after using this oil after many years of using a oil with a different chemistry, I bet the next one will look a lot better.
 
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