00 Honda ATF 127,000 miles

[anneis]

I'm not a transmission fluid analysis expert. These are for an Odyssey, well known for flaky transmissions. About 30,000 miles service on Honda ATF. Obviously it is due for a change, but any comments on the wear metals?

METALS (D5185): Milligrams per Kilogram (PPM)
Tin 1
Lead 1
Copper 8
Aluminum 88
Silicon 21
Iron 91
Chromium 1
Silver 0
Zinc 343
Magnesium 212
Nickel 0
Barium 0
Sodium 4
Calcium 422
Vanadium 0
Phosphorus 82
Molybdenum 1
Boron 257
Manganese 1
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Viscosity (D445) @ 100ºC 5.176
Water (D4007) (% v/v) 0
Solids (D4007) (% v/v) 0
Glycol No
Fuel Dilution
OTHER PROPERTIES
Oil Changed? No
COMMENTS RATING SYSTEM:
A is LOW
B is LOW to MODERATE
C is MODERATE
D is HIGH
E is SEVERE
XK2491 - Tests indicate the need to CHANGE OIL & FILTER. Silicones (B).
Aluminum wear (C).
Low alloy steel wear (B).
Maintain routine sampling.

 

[The Critic]

From the results, I assume that you've changed the fluid every 30k miles or so?

127k on the original unit is VERY good for the B7 series transmissions.

The Aluminum is still a bit high and its possible that a part is failing, but I'm not sure.

Chances are if the transmission does fail, Honda will still pick up a portion of the repair and lower the cost for you to about $1000. Otherwise an independent rebuild will run about $2500.

 

[anneis]

The last change was about 30,000 miles ago. I don't own it but checking it out.

I agree, 127k on the original is amazing. I noticed no tow hitch on it. It looks like the owners generally stuck with dealership service recommendations.

 

[The Critic]

Was the fluid light brown? If so, it was probably serviced every 30k or so. If you are planning to buy it, check to see if the timing belt, water pump, and plugs were replaced at 105k. It's a $800-$1000 job.

 

[Steelhead]

what type of ATF changes have been done in the past, full capacity or just sump drain?

high viscosity shear which is common with Z1 in Hondas
wear metals are in line with other Honda UOA's, would cause concern in other brands of trannies

get a TAN next time, tells much about breakdown oxidation acid levels in ATF

most change Z1 every 20k
suggest change to Amsoil syn ATF, many have good results with it at 30k oci's

or switch to
running Valvo Maxlife ATF in wife's 2 HMC rigs with Lubeguard Platinum, substantial shift improvement, lower wear metals and less oxidation

do a full capacity change out thru cooler line
add an inline filter such as Microfine, especially critical in HMC's since they seem to throw more friction particles into ATF

 

[anneis]

Thanks Critic for the replies. Yes, it was a very light brown, not heavy. I did a white card blotter and there is minor staining. Already checked into the belt, w/p and plugs. They need replacement and budgeted for that already.

 

[anneis]

Last service was the dealer's "drain & flush" but don't know if it was full capacity.

Thanks for the other advice. I was considering Amsoil synth ATF and do a few drain and fills for the first while to get out the old residue. Any comments on this DIY job vs. a full capacity change out at a dealer shop?

 

[benjamming]

What lab did the analysis? TAN result? Do you have any way of knowing the age of the fluid that was used for this fill?

 

[benjamming]

DIY over dealer's shop for several reasons. One, you'll save money. Two, they'll do the same thing you are going to do. Three, you will get to learn and know the car better. Four, no chance of being sold something you don't need. Five, it's fun.

 

[anneis]

Originally Posted By: benjamming
What lab did the analysis? TAN result? Do you have any way of knowing the age of the fluid that was used for this fill?

Fluid age was 25 months, about 30,000 miles. No TAN test done but can be requested.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Since the drain bolt has already been moved, it might not be too tight. 1st time is TOUGH!

 

[HondaMan]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Since the drain bolt has already been moved, it might not be too tight. 1st time is TOUGH!


I've broke more than a few tools and bones when busting that 1st time off tranny drain plug.
If you have a lift, a nice breaker bar and you are set.

If you are simply lifting the front to gain enough room, your space is limited and hence the breaking of tools.

 

[Squishy]

After breaking three of my 3/8" ratchets, my 1/2" breaker bar and a good stomp from the front end got it off. That's one drain plug I always use a torque wrench on - not going through that again.

 

[unDummy]

Looks ok for mileage and unit. Lame otherwise!
Definitely shorten the service intervals.

Do you know if the dealer did complete flush or just drain/refill? any fluid amount mentioned on receipts?

My neighbor has one of these with 200k on original. It'll last if not abused.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Fwiw, when I service older trans, I will flush it completely with cheaper (Dex) for a while to clean and clear the at out before going with a good expensive ATF. I can personally recommend Auto_rx at a lite dose too.