00 Ford Ranger - 9000mi - M1 EP 5w30

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Ft. Morgan, CO
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It's bad I know. I'm unsure what is leaking though. I almost never have to add antifreeze, except occasionally(Every several months) after high speed driving, A few days later it would be low. It does not seem to do this if I drive like a normal person. Note I also had a lazy thermostat in for the beginning of the run.(And it was lazy for who knows how long before that.)

Got to go back to work, so I will add more later.
 
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Head gasket time.
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I had to do my 3.0l V6 ford twice in 108k miles... (@ 61k and 108k)
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"Its a feature"

About $1000 if you do it, $1500 if someone else does it.

Bill
 
I imagine that using a different gasket in conjunction with some better fasteners might make a difference?

Does Felpro make an improved headgasket for this app?
 
Well, I am not going to pay to replace the head gasket. I'll wait until it completely fails, then I might have it fixed, or I will just swap the engine. .23% in 9000miles a lot? I understand the wear is 5 times what it should be(for a 9k run), but had I went only 5000 miles would it of been so bad? Like I said I do not think it uses any if I drive normal.
Aside from the intake I assume that is the only way of entry right?

In any event, I will dump the synpower I used in 2500 miles or so.
 
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I don't think the 3.0's have gasket issues, some do but it isn't like a GM kind of thing. My truck pings, not as bad as it did before I changed the thermostat, but still noticeable. I think this caused the failure I have right now. I spoke with my dad about this briefly and I might have him change the headgaskets for me. I don;t see how it will cost me a grand to do it myself though Bill, perhaps you meant $100?
 
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Should be cheap. Gasket set for ~100 bucks, some ARP head bolts or studs for 80. I did the entire top end on my Mustang; heads/cam/intake over the course of two days.
 
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I don't think the 3.0's have gasket issues,


Sure they do. It's just not assured like Ford products with Aluminum heads. At least the heads don't crack like the old 2.9 (pre-4.0 pushrod).

Your lazy thermostat is probably sticking due to combustion gases getting into the coolant. It's probably fine once you warm up. Pull the rad cap and look and see if you have mud.

The 3.0 isn't too bad for HG change out. The truck will add a "lean and reach" factor, but on a Taurus it's all within arms length. It just looks bad. Around here the R&R of a set of heads runs about $600-$700 ..so a grand would be about right after the shakedown on cleaning up the heads if they're sent out. They always find something to tend to "while you're there".
 
Coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers and most of it is burning off - thats the good news. Coolant that combines chemically with oil does not test out as raw ethylene glycol - thats the bad news. All you end up seeing are the corrosion inhibitors and other additives: sodium, potassium, silicates, molybate, etc.

If you want to nurse this thing along, Id switch to a PG based coolant (better for the bearings). I'd also run a 5w-40 diesel oil and change it every 5000 miles. That may get you through the school year.

Plan B: Provided your parents have good insurance ...leave the car parked unlocked in a bad part of town with the keys on the ignition...;)
 
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Plan B: Provided your parents have good insurance ...leave the car parked unlocked in a bad part of town with the keys on the ignition...;)


LOL.gif
 
Originally Posted By: TeeDub
Coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers and most of it is burning off - thats the good news. Coolant that combines chemically with oil does not test out as raw ethylene glycol - thats the bad news. All you end up seeing are the corrosion inhibitors and other additives: sodium, potassium, silicates, molybate, etc.

If you want to nurse this thing along, Id switch to a PG based coolant (better for the bearings). I'd also run a 5w-40 diesel oil and change it every 5000 miles. That may get you through the school year.

Plan B: Provided your parents have good insurance ...leave the car parked unlocked in a bad part of town with the keys on the ignition...;)

Pardon me for making myself look like a minor. I'm not. I spoke with my dad because he has experience with these things, and knows how to fix them. I don;t, but could do it if I HAD to. I'm not in school so I don't have to worry about that, it'll just be getting to work, but that won't really be a problem either. It's just the cost, mainly. I'll probably have him change them for me. Because if it really lets go it could take out the whole engine.
Thanks for the recommendation, and insight.
 
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if i had the opportunity to have a friend or family member to help me out, I would jump at the chance and either pay them half of what it would cost regardless if they dont want any compensation, or a case or two of amsoil or something along those lines
 
i dont see how it would cost you a 1000 bucks to put headgaskets on it yourself...if it does your overpaying for everything you need.
 
Originally Posted By: Travis99LS1
i dont see how it would cost you a 1000 bucks to put headgaskets on it yourself...if it does your overpaying for everything you need.
I think that was a typo by Bill, I figure it would cost 250 TOPS. Hopefully I don't find any other issues in there.

I forgot to say that there is no "mud" in the coolant. I just drained and ran water through it 6 weeks ago, and there was just sediment. I've seen the mud spoken of before, just not in my vehicle. Also the mixture that was in it was at least 80/20 antifreeze/water. I do not know why the previous owner had it like that. And the thermostat has been changed, the one I took out was original, so 8+ years old.
 
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Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
http://www.barsproducts.com/tech/1111_tech.pdf

Thankfully, Bar's has a new product that you just add and drive. No complicated steps like the previous product. Add it after you drain the radiator.
I just might do this, If it doesn't work I only lose what $15?
 
Originally Posted By: Schism
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
http://www.barsproducts.com/tech/1111_tech.pdf

Thankfully, Bar's has a new product that you just add and drive. No complicated steps like the previous product. Add it after you drain the radiator.
I just might do this, If it doesn't work I only lose what $15?


Yeah do that until you have time to fix it right.

Ft. Morgan, wowser, I once rode Amtrak from Winter Haven Florida to Ft. Morgan. It took three days. What a journey! I almost was pitpocketed in D.C.!

I ate scrambled eggs and bacon at a little diner in Ft. Morgan while waiting for my GF who is now my wife to pick me up.

I live about three hours from Ft. Morgan.
 
Originally Posted By: TeeDub
Coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers and most of it is burning off - thats the good news. Coolant that combines chemically with oil does not test out as raw ethylene glycol - thats the bad news. All you end up seeing are the corrosion inhibitors and other additives: sodium, potassium, silicates, molybate, etc.

If you want to nurse this thing along, Id switch to a PG based coolant (better for the bearings). I'd also run a 5w-40 diesel oil and change it every 5000 miles. That may get you through the school year.

Plan B: Provided your parents have good insurance ...leave the car parked unlocked in a bad part of town with the keys on the ignition...;)
A spare set of keys.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
http://www.barsproducts.com/tech/1111_tech.pdf

Thankfully, Bar's has a new product that you just add and drive. No complicated steps like the previous product. Add it after you drain the radiator.

Looks like really good stuff. Any experience with it?
 
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