0-40w/5-40w 2019 WRX

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May 23, 2023
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I’ve spent hours searching through the forum on this and between differing opinions and my indecisiveness/overthinking I can’t come to a conclusion lol.

Would appreciate oil recommendations for a 2019 WRX 92.5k miles FBO tuned for E30. My tuner wants Motul 5-40w Xclean, but I’ve seen a few negative oil samples on it and would prefer something local. I have a high flow cat and don’t mind cleaning the valves every 30k it’s a relatively easy service, also ethanol should help prevent LSPI correct? With that in mind would I be better off going away from a low saps oil?

It’s a DD 20 minute commute to work mixed city/highway, and I commute 3hrs every other weekend with it with occasional spirited driving.
Using Schaeffers 5-30w in it currently
 
Welcome Levi.

Low saps isn't bad as it's about meeting the specs which the new M1 FS 0w-40 meets while being not high saps but more mid saps which is fine, So pick an SP rated oil. Really just about any euro offering from Walmart is plenty good since most have that now. Could be QS euro or the most expensive on the shelf and it's fine. But high ethanol is known for beating the oil and the reports you might have seen could be because of that. It's more important to change more frequently since long time drains with E85 cars usually look more poor than good. But E30 is less bad than E85 but it's still bad to have ethanol dilution in the oil. Highly doubt motul xclean is bad. I'd use the fram endurance filter as well. It's wire backed and great for performance applications.
 
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Ethanol increases lspi (but not necessarily super knock. Some studies say the superknk decrease after 50% ethanol)

I would pick any high quality 0w-40 or 5w40 oil that is API SP

There's nothing wrong with m1 0w40 for $26 for 5 quarts or you can go all nuts with Ravenol racing or Motul 300v but I don't know there would be much difference in outcome.
 
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Ethanol increases lspi.

I would pick any high quality 0w-40 or 5w40 oil that is API SP

There's nothing wrong with m1 0w40 for $26 for 5 quarts or you can go all nuts with Ravenol racing or Motul 300v but I don't know there would be much difference in outcome.
Must be the question of the day.
 
My tuner wants Motul 5-40w Xclean, but I’ve seen a few negative oil samples on it and would prefer something local. I have a high flow cat and don’t mind cleaning the valves every 30k it’s a relatively easy service, also ethanol should help prevent LSPI correct? With that in mind would I be better off going away from a low saps oil?
Can you elaborate on the few negative samples you've seen on X-clean 5W-40? X-clean 5W-30 is what IAG Performance recommends in their 2.0DIT builds so it's decent oil. There are also quite a few decent uoa's in an older long thread on NASIOC.

If you've done EGR and TGV deletes you're probably fine running a high SAPS oil. Personally, I would use an ACEA C3 oil like X-clean, Pennzoil Euro, Mobil 1 ESP, etc. Subaru Japan does allow high SAPS 5W-40 in the 2.0DIT which was a surprise to me.
 
Can you elaborate on the few negative samples you've seen on X-clean 5W-40? X-clean 5W-30 is what IAG Performance recommends in their 2.0DIT builds so it's decent oil. There are also quite a few decent uoa's in an older long thread on NASIOC.

If you've done EGR and TGV deletes you're probably fine running a high SAPS oil. Personally, I would use an ACEA C3 oil like X-clean, Pennzoil Euro, Mobil 1 ESP, etc. Subaru Japan does allow high SAPS 5W-40 in the 2.0DIT which was a surprise to me.
Quite a few with high copper and running out of grade, probably just anecdotal. I’m not against it but it’s expensive and would have to order online. They also have gen 1/2 and + which is a little confusing and they don’t seem to use moly but the zn seems to run 700-800?

I do not have EGR/TGV deletes all emissions are in place with catch cans. So I’ve been trying to shop oils with dexos or sp spec with a high hhts in 0-40/5-40. I don’t mind buying expensive oil if it is beneficial but I’ll also be changing every 3k. Thanks for the suggestions guys afaik m1 0-40 is super high calcium has that changed since the sp addition I haven’t seen a uoa with it
 
Try the Motul Sport Ester, or its called 8100 Power. You could also run 300v for say 3k max if you wanted to do that. The Motul stuff your using is a fantastic oil. I'd just stick with it......5w40......
 
Quite a few with high copper and running out of grade, probably just anecdotal.
That running out of grade is likely viscosity loss from fuel dilution so it's not an issue with the oil. No comment on the copper since I haven't seen the uoa's.

You should be able to find a reduced SAPS Pennzoil Euro xW-30 at Wal-Mart if you don't want to pay for the Motul. There aren't very many inexpensive reduced SAPS xW-40's out there. And I was referring to Mobil 1 ESP, not the regular M1 0W-40.
 
That running out of grade is likely viscosity loss from fuel dilution so it's not an issue with the oil.
When I looked through the NAIOC UOA superthread some years back, some oils in these engines definitely did seem to shear to a lighter viscosity than could be explained by fuel dilution alone. Mobil 1 seems to shear in these engines. Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum don't seem to shear at all. In any case, I wouldn't worry about shearing too much if using a 5W40.

As for LSPI, I'm not sure what effect ethanol has, but SN+ and SP oils will provide better LSPI protection than the SN oil that this engine originally specified. If you're doing your own tuning, I'd suggest limiting ignition timing advance in the LSPI "danger zone" load/rpm range (roughly 1.5k rpm at 50% load to 2.5-3k at 100% load). Tuning for E30 will allow for more advanced ignition timing than stock, but it might be better for the engine to be tuned closer to stock at these load points.
 
If doing oil changes at 3k, just get QSFS Euro 5w40 for $22 at wallyworld and call it a day. Good specs and approvals
 
When I looked through the NAIOC UOA superthread some years back, some oils in these engines definitely did seem to shear to a lighter viscosity than could be explained by fuel dilution alone. Mobil 1 seems to shear in these engines. Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum don't seem to shear at all. In any case, I wouldn't worry about shearing too much if using a 5W40.

As for LSPI, I'm not sure what effect ethanol has, but SN+ and SP oils will provide better LSPI protection than the SN oil that this engine originally specified. If you're doing your own tuning, I'd suggest limiting ignition timing advance in the LSPI "danger zone" load/rpm range (roughly 1.5k rpm at 50% load to 2.5-3k at 100% load). Tuning for E30 will allow for more advanced ignition timing than stock, but it might be better for the engine to be tuned closer to stock at these load points.
I’m not tuning it, I will ask my tuner I’m pretty sure he does this by default. Great suggestion thank you. Thanks guys I think I’ll check Walmart for pp 0-40w or esp x3 if prices are similar I’ll just get Amsoil 0-40w it seems to be similar to the pp with slightly more additives and thicker. If they’re noack ratings are correct it’s pretty low too
I will follow up with UOA whatever I get
 
It looks like most lspi oils have low cal/phos, but zzzdp and moly are lspi quenchers right? So something like the redline 5-40w very high zzdp and moly does that cancel out the cal?
 
When I looked through the NAIOC UOA superthread some years back, some oils in these engines definitely did seem to shear to a lighter viscosity than could be explained by fuel dilution alone. Mobil 1 seems to shear in these engines. Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum don't seem to shear at all. In any case, I wouldn't worry about shearing too much if using a 5W40.
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Actually, most GF5 oils in that thread lost viscosity due fuel dilution regardless of brand. Look for uoa’s from OAI in that thread for actual measured fuel dilution via GC. The C3 xW-30 oils like Mobil 1 ESP and Motul X-clean maintained viscosity.
 
It looks like most lspi oils have low cal/phos, but zzzdp and moly are lspi quenchers right? So something like the redline 5-40w very high zzdp and moly does that cancel out the cal?
High zinc and moly are LSPI quenchers but high phosphorus is not. Red Line also has a lot of calcium. I do believe they have a Euro oil which would probably be a better fit. That’s presuming you’re referring to the original-ish formula and not the later certified oil. I thought you were looking for cheaper options than Motul?

I haven’t seen evidence that the 2.0DIT has issues with LSPI either. I’ve seen people on this forum claim that their 2.0 had failure due to LSPI but they didn’t offer much evidence.
 
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High zinc and moly are LSPI quenchers but high phosphorus is not. Red Line also has a lot of calcium. I do believe they have a Euro oil which would be a better fit. That’s presuming you’re referring to the original-ish formula and not the later certified oil.
Screen Shot 2023-05-23 at 10.02.12 PM.jpg
 
High zinc and moly are LSPI quenchers but high phosphorus is not. Red Line also has a lot of calcium. I do believe they have a Euro oil which would probably be a better fit. That’s presuming you’re referring to the original-ish formula and not the later certified oil. I thought you were looking for cheaper options than Motul?

I haven’t seen evidence that the 2.0DIT has issues with LSPI either. I’ve seen people on this forum claim that their 2.0 had failure due to LSPI but they didn’t offer much evidence.
So which outweighs which? I don’t think lspi will be a issue more so with my mods and tune everything was done right, but it would really suck if it was lol. Maybe I’m wrong but it seems like the motor would benefit from a high saps oil but the emissions and regulations have hindered that. If the only grief a high saps will cause me is blasting the valves but offer more protection i’d rather go that route. I don’t know that much though will it cause other issues?

I’m not really worried about price if something was going to be a non difference over the life of the engine I’ll opt for that. I would prefer something local and I can’t source Motul locally. If it’s worth it I’ll get it online though
 
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