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Originally Posted By: edhackett I'll also bet the Joe Gibbs oils don't contain SN levels of additives. That chart doesn't have any relevance to off the shelf street oils as far as I'm concerned. Ed True. But that isn't the point of the post and included link. Just one aspect to be...

Originally Posted By: boosted ^ That's just a myth, as long as you prime your oil filter before installing it you have no dry start up's and therefore no harm done, people also seem to forget that you aren't getting all the oil out everytime you change it, the oil pump is always "primed" unless...

Originally Posted By: dxbMercury 10bears I replaced the fluid as per the bulletin with the Ford FM and all the chatter disappeared but the whine remains. Seems to be no cure for the whine. Good luck In addition, from what I read on the Mercury/Explorer fora, it's only the Ford FM that...

10bears I replaced the fluid as per the bulletin with the Ford FM and all the chatter disappeared but the whine remains. Seems to be no cure for the whine. Good luck

Originally Posted By: tomcat27 according to amsoil, I dont believe you should run the EA09 that many miles. they had problems with them clogging on toyotas. I dont remember all the details.... That's correct. Amsoil cut open some filters that had been on Toyotas and found sludge at less than...

Originally Posted By: atc250r Originally Posted By: Donald I am going to change the diff. gear oil on my Dodge and use Amsoil SVG, but the Amsoil website says to add xx ounces of a Mopar additive. isn't that normal for limited slip diffs? Amsoil AVG is in my Jeep's diffs and no problems...

Originally Posted By: Cristobal Since they are multigrades you are fine. Given Dubai's temperatures I doubt any will be too thick on startup, ever. A 10W-40 weight will cause no harm either, nor any oil that has an upper weight of 50. I don't think the frequent startups are any issue with these...

Ah, yes, that explanation makes sense Drivebelt. But still not sure why all of the synthetics in Dubai are of the 40 or 50 grade also. I still can't help but think that there is a mindset that prevails based on an outdated requirement that should now be re thought considering the advances in...

Thanks Shannow. I can get the M1 0W-40 or Havoline 5W-30. The Havoline been the only 30 grade I could find. Cheers, Paul

No worries,I should have been more clear about the grades. They are all multigrades but mostly a small spread with the lowest at 40 grade. I can find only one 5W-30. The rest are xW-40 or xW-50. I was going to brew a Caterham blend but there isn't a 20 grade to be found. Your right the...

Originally Posted By: mechtech2 Originally Posted By: Shannow Grab a 15W-40, 10W-40, and don't worry too much more than that. This is short and sweet, and probably the best option . I appreciate your input gentlemen but I can't help but think that 40 grade is too heavy particularly for lots...

Yes, strict on the emissions and tested every 12 months. I can't help thinking a lighter weight oil would be more suited to the driving here, lots of starts and short distances. Temps don't have to be freezing for the engine to be damaged on start up.

I agree, and I reckon the heavy grade obsession here is a hangover from when oils probably needed to be heavier. Do the manufactures spec a heavier grade in Florida or Arizona? Regardless of what the reason is the lack of options has left me with the choice of M1 0W-40 at $75 a jug or Havoline...

My first thoughts were "it's gotta be the temp" but apart from the no below zero start ups, the engines here are probably running similar temps when warmed up as cars in cooler climates.

I was thinking that it might be a hang up from when oils wern't as good as they are now and the heavier grade was needed. The new oils seem to able to do what's needed at a lighter grade or am I wrong on that point? Or maybe it's something to do with the dust. Viz drops to half a mile in sand...

Hello to everyone. My first post and it's a question. I have been lurking for a while and one of the points I have picked up is that 40 or 50 grade oil doesn't suit all cars or styles of driving. I decided to change my oil to something more suitable as the dealer(Ford) wasn't even using...

Originally Posted By: yonyon If you still have the original ATF and spark plugs in there, consider replacing them. Clogged cats or a burned up clutch pack can make it run badly even if the engine itself is in stellar condition. Be careful changing the plugs, they have a tendancy to break...