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I agree with TooSlick on the Amsoil 15w-40. A uoa after 108 hours of use in our 454Mag showed it had a lot of life left in it. One thing to remember, all of our marine engines are tuned on the rich side due to the loads and rpms we make them endure. This makes fuel dilution one of the big things...

Ryan, I leaned on the Amsoil 15-40 for 108 hours 2 seasons ago and was more than happy with the results. We have a 454 Mag Mercruiser rated for 385 ponies. It's an MPI motor, but as you know, all marine engines are tuned pretty rich to keep them alive. If you do analysis you'll find that fuel...

Greaser, before you go this route, take a good look at the shock mounting points. Shocks are meant for suspension dampening, and often times the mounting points aren't up to the task of supporting body weight.

I stretched out a oci to 108hrs with it in our 454 and it still showed 7.3 for the tbn. It's an excellent choice for marine use in my opinion.

Amen Hirev. I haven't had time to check a bunch of different engines, but my Clyner manual for modulars, and my Seloc manual for Mercruiser GM motors showed virtually the same main and rod bearing clearances. I was really suprised by this as the "common knowledge" and belief on this and other...

The Wix 51087 is 5.477 inches long while the "stock" 51372 is 4.167 inches long. The 3 local stores I called by me didn't stock the 51087. The price they quoted was $13. BTW, according to the Motorcraft site, the 820s is 4.04 inches long with a bypass of 12.5 to 18.5 psi.

RTexasF, not nitpicking but keeping things straight, the regular Merc oil isn't a blend. They do however now have a synth blend for outboards and another one for Mercruiser applications. So if 2Ksearay wanted to use Merc oil he has 2 choices, regular or the new synth blend.

A great light lubricant is Rem-Oil. It sprays on wet to penetrate then dries. I use it on all kinds of stuff. Easy to find too.

Congrats on the new toy! As far as your oil choice, I'm of the opinion that a diesel oil is your best bet. Marine engines deal with a lot of the same stresses that heavy duty diesels do and work great with the "standard" 15-40 weight. Your 3.0, which by the way is one tough motor, should take...

I'll bet what you're seeing is varnish staining. Lube Control, another proven product, will safely remove it and prevent any more build-up if used as directed.

I'll second the Rem-Oil. I first tried it a few years ago to keep my 11-87 from getting gummed up during duck season. Since then I've been using it on everything around the house and vehicles. It penetrates while wet then dries to a nice, non dirt attracting, "dry" lube.

Accumulators work great on dry sump type oiling systems but get a bit tricky with regular oil pan systems. You can pressurize the can at shut off and use it as a pre-oiler at the next start-up. After you pre-oil just shut off the valve so the system doesn't lose any oil refilling the can during...

Our 2001 Excursion along with all the Super Dutys have non greasable sealed ball joints. They seem to start going bad around 50K. Steering not returning to center and wandering front ends are symptoms of them giving up the ghost. That few bucks a vehicle they save at build time really hurts the...

It's keeping your valve from falling into the cylinder!! Seriously, that's called a valve spring. They keep the valves closed until the cam pushes them open to let air and fuel in or let exhaust out. They're usually just "splash lubed" while the engine is running. The color is a coating from the...

Oily, what about a length of pvc with a series of holes drilled into it? Cap the far end of it and use the appropriate fittings to be able to hook up a hose to the near end. It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional!

Towing qualifies for "severe" service and 3K oci in my '01 manual. Looks like Gene's Expy is still in warranty. So stretching the intervals past Ford's "normal" recommendation, which I believe is 5K, doesn't seem too wise. I'd also consider running fairly conservative air filter intervals in...

I would think it's more from the full throttle running where the ecm goes into "give it all the fuel it can swallow" mode. Doing autocross, I'm pretty sure your engine is seeing plenty of closed throttle deceleration while still in gear.

I thought I saw Roddie Gordon running a diesel V-Dub in the Paris to Dakar. Maybe a Toureg? Anyhoo, that R10 is a beaut. A far cry from our old '78 Rabbit diesel!!

You can get the plunger style extraction/installation pumps at lots of places...got a new one this year at Auto-Zone. They have a grease-gun like body with a t-handle to work the plunger.

Faceless, is it possible that oil foaming could be causing your pressure problems? With your non-stock pan shape, make sure the crank throws don't swing down into the oil as it makes its way back to the deeper part of the pan.