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Removed the turbo, inspected it, and went ahead and replaced the grommet on the lower pipe, which travels from the turbo to the side of the engine and again replaced the rubber seal (ring) on the upper pipe, which travels from the turbo to the side of the engine. No leaks detected in the area...

LOL, That’s all you had to say to get me back in there to figure it out. It’s probably the grommet on the oil return pipe.

Own a 2005 w211 e320 CDI with ~176k miles. I just replaced the turbo actuator a few weeks ago. Had to remove the turbo to do the job. Once I installed the turbo back into place an oil leak sprung up on the oil supply line that runs from the side of the engine to the top of the turbo. Replaced...

UPDATE !!! Ended up shipping the turbo actuator to XEMODEX in Canada https://xemodex.com. My own unit (turbo actuator) was rebuilt and shipped back. I re-installed the turbo actuator, cleared the codes before driving, and limp mode is gone (so far). Drove the car for a week then noticed engine...

I’m not 100 percent sure that the limo mode symptoms are being caused by the turbo actuator. Getting codes P0103, P0113 and P0401. Might have a big leak somewhere or EGR is toast. The Mercedes Forums talk about the turbo actuator or the turbo itself being the culprit for my car driving on limp...

G-109 is the number etched on the metallic part of the actuator body. There’s also a separate number (17074) etched on metal. I also see H-06 faintly etched on the metal.

Will clean up the actuator a little more and see if I can read more numbers. Thanks !!

Own a 2005 e320 CDI Mercedes (OM648) and need to replace the turbo actuator. Mercedes does not sell the part by itself. Looks like it comes with the Turbo Charger which is no longer available. Part number for the turbo charger is 648 096 02 99. The turbo actuator has the words “Hella” on it...

Haven’t checked lately but on average, I used to get 38mpg on a full tank.

That would be 506k miles. Blew the head gasket at 506k and decided to bring it back to life myself. When I removed the original head, I checked the engine block with a straight edge and it was warped. Long story short, decided to “hill billy” the machining process. I used a piece of steel...

Here are some pics.

Thanks, I will check the width and then go from there. I still can’t believe there are no aftermarket refills. I’m not going to replace the original wiper assembly with an aftermarket one.

Own a 1991 Honda Civic Si Hatchback and looking for rear windshield wiper refills. Honda no longer has them in stock. Having a difficult time finding replacements. The original rubber refill has unique pockets at the ends that enable the rear wiper blade assembly to be properly secured to the...

Looking for a good alternative to Genuine Mercedes Transmission Fluid (MB 236.14), part number 001-989-68-03-18, for my 2005 and 2006 E320 CDI’s. The Genuine Mercedes transmission fluid is $24-28$ per bottle now. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Don’t mind buying OE GM gaskets (at RAuto online store) but I don’t see OE GM grommets available. If I buy the aftermarket grommets separately, they are sold individually for an arm and a leg. There is a Mahle kit on RA (online store) that includes the grommets so I’m leaning towards that...

Own a 2002 Silverado 5.3L and it’s time to replace the engine valve cover gaskets. Which manufacture sells the best valve cover gaskets? Any recommendation is greatly appreciated

Two MB dealers provided me with two different part numbers for the P/S Fluid. One dealer gave me 000 989 24 03 09 and the other one gave me 000-989-88-03-11. Part number 000-989-88-03-11 is showing up as Transmission fluid. The parts guy pushing for 000-989-88-03-11 is adamant that it’s the...

Mercedes 2006 E320 CDI (w211) Dealer wants $62.00 for one Liter of Power Steering Fluid. Any good aftermarket P/S Fluid that meets or exceeds the recommended P/S sold by the MB dealer? Any advice is greatly appreciated

Wondering if a 2004 w211 E55 AMG front bumper will fit on my w211 2005 E320 CDI. If it does fit, is it a “plug and play” direct fit or is there modification needed on the mounting areas or modification needed on the electrical (fog lights) side. Any input is greatly appreciated

Bolt on Catalytic Converters have always been readily available but because of the high cost, most people would opt to go to a muffler shop to get one fitted and welded on. Since labor has gone thru the roof, I’m opting for a bolt on Cat instead of going to a muffler shop.