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Well good luck. I understand your predicament, but just FYI this is how sleazy companies continue to prosper. We accept it. We give them money. I know, sometimes you don't have any other option. It's sad.

They made a good product from what you guys are saying, yet they're saying they're not going to make it anymore because ... they don't have the skills to make them.

Until the repair just isn't worth it for the vehicle for me.

Get a piece of metal that is akin to rust. Rub some household things on it, sit it outside for a week or so and see what looks the best. Butter olive oil coconut oil vegetable oil shortening used grease whatever

Plenty of ways to get and/or stream anything you want for free. Of course if you don't want to take advantage of the nice record companies you should just pay and be thankful.

Ironically they have at times been at the top of the game quality wise. Ford has had many years producing vehicles that get 300k miles without much if any drama. There's an old cliche about how so and so company has "x years of experience" where they add all the employees' experience together ...

Sand, the new moly!

All I can say is ask for technical proof of any answers you see. It's like asking what oil is best.

Excellent point, not laced with political innuendos or assumptions! Same technology, more demanding vehicles, batteries crap out sooner, mfg is like whoa...

Or a Ford Ecoboost.

I've read that angle torque values provide for a more accurate tightening since you can't (well, not as easily) goof up an angle, but a torque wrench may be out of spec or affected by less than direct force on the bolt.

And if you didn't know better, you'd think they were hamburger enriched buns, as in enriched with hamburger. I'm noticing this a lot more these days. Nonsensical wording on things. I don't think I'll ever forget the "Run Like New" Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart.

You'll need to dig up TDS's for oils. You might also consider a thin 5w40 or 0w40. High Mileage oils are almost always "heavier" than their non-hm counterparts. Also, the Euro oils are usually "heavier".

I just hate no friggin' handle on top. And besides, until other companies come out with a "Run Like New" oil, I'm sticking with M1.

Let's not kid ourselves. The public has been beta testing vehicles since the Model A, granted they didn't have a propensity to burst into flames.

Have ya'll noticed the fuzzy hairs impregnated into belts these days? I wonder if that adds to or decreases longevity.

I can't see how any oil is going to stop chain noise. I guess if you're in that period where all the oil may or may not have drained out of the tensioner by the time you crank it again, a thicker oil may drain out slower. You almost certainly have a leaky tensioner. Perhaps the "timing kit"...

Waiting on my $7,000 EV powered by a forklift motor. :(

If you didn't release pressure before you took the cap off, then, well... the pressure had to be released.

Meanwhile they're selling cars and makin' money!