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Originally Posted By: dblshock I'm wondering just how durable these turbos will prove to be, what has really changed since the 90's?... The oil being used in the turbo is vastly superior, in addition to water cooling. Modern turbos seem to be 'relatively' reliable, but my gut agrees with...

For a drink like a G&T where gin is the centerpiece of the drink, I like Plymouth; it's less dry than most and has a very unique taste.

Originally Posted By: BigCahuna He has a warranty on an 11 year old boat that would cover that?.,,, +1 Mercury has no obligation to pick up the tab on an 11 year old product.

Aligning the dot and valve stem is a courtesy, but nothing will be amiss if they're not aligned. Don't worry about it.

Great oil, one of the few that won't shear down at all. However, after it's been mixmastered it tends to turn into a 60 grade.

My grandparents had a Super 88 that had it. I think it was a 58.

Keep us posted on how it holds up. It's on my short list of oils to try in my bike next.

Buick LeSabre or Park Avenue, Lincoln Town Car, or Cadillac Sedan deVille. Without going back into the 80s, those are probably your best shot.

Since you say the shifting smooths out after the battery is unhooked I'd take a look into the TCM programming. If it's never been done, there is probably some kind of shift quality update out there.

96 model 2.4s had weak head gaskets from the factory (asbestos, I believe). Unless it has EXTREMELY little use, it's probably blown and been replaced with an updated MLS gasket already. Once it has an MLS gasket, the only thing to look out for is the inevitable oil leak from the rear of the head...

I just sold mine in December...96 Miata with 120k on the clock. It sat around most of its life until I bought it in 2012 and started driving it year-round. Top leaked (like any good convertible) and eventually broke both windshield header latches due to Michigan's "roads". Top flew open on 75...

I can understand how some variance can be built in to the testing process, but to jump from 6.25 to 6.88? Yikes, that's a change of 10%. With tolerances like that I'm not surprised their fuel reporting is all over the board.

365 flash with 1% fuel? My gut reaction is that something doesn't jive.

Don't buy the nonsense all the Chrysler haters are spewing. Sure, the 9 speed was a pile of trash when it came out, but models built after September '15 implemented several mechanical changes and are much smoother in operation...haven't had one of the new ones fail yet. Other than 2015 models...

You could try coating it with RTV. That way it'll stay flexible and cover up the jagged torn plastic. I have no idea how durable it will be though. edit: grammar

Unitizing is great for packaging, but suboptimal for performance. Engines like different fluids than primaries, though they (obviously) will do fine on a common oil. Pros and cons either way.

If you have a Mopar dealer in close range, visit the parts guys and ask for axle cover sealant (more affectionately called 'axle snot'). Orange in color, seals like a champ. I don't recall what it costs exactly, but I want to say it's under $10. I forget who makes it or what its...

Cheap oil for motorycles = HDEO (Mobil Delvac 1300, Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, et al). Shell Rotella T 15W-40 is even JASO MA certified. Go buy a gallon for $15.

Brakes on LHs seem to hang around. The original owner of my 300M claims he never did them. I changed the fronts at 85k and I'm expecting 125k or so from the rears. I reused the front rotors too, after skimming .010" off. Side note, the 2.7 was really pretty good if you caught the water pump...

Looks pretty nice; better than the rockers in my A series at 50,000 miles (not helped by the massive overfuelling from the previous owner...) Gotta love the old Austin motors. They'll run on hope and pocket change.