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If you want low Noack give 10w-30 a hard look. They generally beat the 5w by a few percent. And then you have your boutique oils...

Originally Posted by BigShug681 It basically is water No. It is API certified oil for engines designed for low viscosity oils. Your willful ignorance does not change FACT

If it meets api spec it's irrelevant where it comes from anyway.

I dump the pan into the big blue used oil tank at autozone

I'm fairly certain that an engine designed for 0w-16 could run 0w-20 without problems but I don't think the reverse is true. Does anyone have some data that can provide clarification?

What you're doing seems very reasonable, even conservative. I run 7500-10k on M1 HM 10w-30 and have to add a quart to keep it full over the interval.

I'm leaning toward the yellow stuff. Is there really a performance difference in rotors? I figured a slab of iron is pretty much a slab of iron. If it's just a matter of the cheap rotors wear faster then I don't think the markup is worth it, if there's a legit performance improvement then I'll...

Actually I didn't cause an accident, I was being pursued by a psycho with road rage and I tried to make a hard corner and the brakes didn't grab like I needed them to. Approx 60k on pads, starting to get squeaky under light braking. Some judder.

FWIW I'm still running the OEM serpentine belt and I'm around 184k miles now. I inspect it and give it a quick tension check when I check the oil. The darn thing looks almost new. No cracking, channels are good. Materials science is amazing

Originally Posted by Cujet If you like the current pads, why not stick with them? For my driving technique, I prefer certain Carbotech pads. For me, Carbotech pads from their base 1521 pad, all the way up to XP10 (on my high HP stuff) work very well on the street. The more robust pads have a...

I don't give a hoot about dust, I'm all about good braking. I'm actually giving the red stuff and yellow stuff pads a hard look

I buy the cheapest dot 3, usually supertech or Prestone, and service my brakes routinely, which includes bleeding and topping off with fresh fluid

Time for pads and rotors. 2010 Ford Fusion. Daily driver, don't track but I am aggressive with braking and acceleration often. Currently running akebono street performance pads, and I like them a lot. Rotors are generic autozone brand I think. I've heard good things about EBC Black stuff for my...

A non-ILSAC 10w-30 is what I would run. ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4. If you're worried about flat tappets move up to 10w-40, they are allowed more ZDDP than the 20a and 30s M1 HM 10w-30 is an A3/B3 available at Walmart in 5qt jugs

Briefly when I got my fusion. Then I learned that for a commuter vehicle it doesn't matter. I ran 5w-20 for the first 100k or so. She started burning oil about a qt every 3k, I moved up to 5w-30 to slow consumption, then I relocated to FL so I switched to M1 HM 10w-30 which is a non-ILSAC oil...

M1 HM 10w-30 because it's A3/B3 with HTHS 3.5 AND can be had $13 for a 5 qt jug after rebate. 10w-30 because Florida. Quality and value. Hard to beat

M1 HM 10w-30 started no problem at 28F Florida didn't freeze hard like the rest of the country.

I agree with 5w-30 for your fleet and I'll toss in a plug for M1 HM 10w-30. It's a good thick 30 with HTHS of 3.5. Plenty of insurance for those hot Texas summers

UOA at 7000km and see how much life the oil has left

Flip a coin