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They use the dealer screwup to deny your warranty claim of course. All large corporations develop evil MBA tendencies.

all Xw-30 are 30 grade at operating temp. And in FL there is no practical difference between 0w and 10w in terms of pumpability

I hear you, I've just read so many dealer horror stories it has me paranoid.

I'm having a hard time finding that Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0w-30. Walmart has it online for delivery to store but it's only in quarts. I'm poking around amazon and not having much luck. I'll look at the various part houses, but I really don't want to pay the parts-house tax

Exactly. If I need warranty work for the engine I want to be able to say I ran a 30 grade that meets the API SN+, SP or ILSAC GF-6 Spec Ironically, most of these are "weaker" oils Although that 5w-40 that meets SN+ looks pretty good... more SAPS allowed with the 40

I'm still not sure why you're so adamantly against 10w-30 in this motor. It's a very stout oil, and yes it is thick when cold but if the service manual allows everything up to 20w-50 then the motor is fine with it. Kschachn is correct in that the cranking viscosity doesn't make any practical...

If it's on the shelf at the local Wal-Mart I'll give it a try. I know I can find both M1 oils there, no idea if that Pennzoil Euro LX 0w-30 is on the shelf. I will look for it.

Thanks for this. At 11.9cst hot this oil is very close to the M1 HM 10w-40 and M1 FS 0w-40. I doubt I’ll be able to tell the difference. bought some oil filters at the dealer yesterday. I’ll take pics of the sparkly oil filter when I change it.

It's a 5qt jug with 4qt left in it. I will try the FS 0w-40 after the 10w-30. 100 miles is 3 work days for me, so it will probably be more like 180 miles. I have to go to my local dealer to buy filters.

yeah I just don't understand some people...

first thing that occurs is that you're cooking out some fuel dilution on the trip down, and nothing left to cook out on the way back. Do you short-trip much when you're not driving to TX? EDIT nevermind, reread your OP. Maybe the oil control rings are getting freed up from the extended...

I like your profile pic and wholeheartedly agree with the sentiment. Rims on a truck is just... wrong, against nature, unnatural, misconfigured, ugly and dysfunctional...

Nah. They can make more money this way.

221k on my Fusion v6 It's the duratec 3.0 In it's early life it had a number of different 5w-20s Then I switched to M1 HM 10w-30 7500k OCI and fram ultra for the bulk of the changes Transmission is on the way out so I bought a new car and this one is parked

That's fair enough, with the current rebates M1 won't hurt too much. Any thoughts on a variable oil pump? I'm still trying to determine if the 2.5 has one or not. It looks like the 1.6 does. Actually... I have 4qt of my M1 HM 10w-30 already. I'll just pick up one more jug and give it a test...

Aloe

I originally was going to change at 1k, but arcographite said 2k. I have no idea if the factory oil has any break-in additives. If someone knows, please share. One more thought... a jug of Supertech 5w-30 should be fine for 100 miles right? just to get the last bits of metal out? I'll buy what...

I am going to UOA after the first couple of changes after the engine is done wearing in and see how the oil holds up.

I took a look at the datasheets for M1 ESP 5w-30. It does look like a good oil. You're probably gonna want to bonk me on the head, but I don't see that it's that different from the M1 HM 10w-30. Both are HTHS of 3.5. the 5w-30 has 11.8 cst at 100C and the 10w-30 has 12 cst at 100C. So to get...

I live in N FL. No such thing as too thick at start here unless it's some severely oxidized used oil