Search results

I have the StartAll 5000a 12v jump pack and have no complaints. Yes it is expensive. But I would not own a GooLoo for all the tea in China after my neighbor had one that started a fire in his shop/garage that resulted in massive losses. My neighbor is a professional race car mechanic and is...

So far I have had great luck with the X2 Northstar AGM batteries in my truck. I have a dual Group 65 battery setup because the 7.3 IDI has such high compression, 21.5:1, and flooded batteries don't last much more than 3 years in my experience.. So far the X2 Northstar batteries are about 5.5...

I have read that gasoline degrades relatively quickly in terms of losing octane as well as pulling in moisture due to the ethanol, so, personally speaking, I would only put 5-6 yr old gas in something inexpensive and expendable. I hate to waste anything but neither would I want to create a...

I don't think there's a strength difference in most cases. I grew up doing concrete work and it was the same mix for a foundation or a driveway but the finish would be different. An interior slab may get different finish trowel work as opposed to a driveway which often has a rougher finish to...

I carry a small tarp if I have to park on a nice surface.

Yes it's a super slow leak, but it's enough to irritate a customer if you park and drip on their clean concrete driveway.

I'm not sure about the OP's truck but when doing the rear main on my 7.3 IDI a repair sleeve was necessary due to the seal wearing a slight groove in the crank. I know this is pretty much standard practice on the old IDI Fords but might be worth having a sleeve on hand, especially if you don't...

Draining the carb is probably more important than the tank. The ethanol blended gas just seems to destroy carbs or at least require serious cleaning. My local small engine repair shop sells both PRI-G abd Stabil but they recommend ethanol free fuel as much better than the additives. When...

I have left regular non-treated ethanol infused pump gas in a generator outside for about 8 or 9 months and it still fired up no problem. Of course I shouldn't a dun it but it did work OK.

I reckon D4 it is.

Of course you are making an assumption about other people's assumptions. We all hope to being doing things correctly but yeah sometimes we miss a step through ignorance or forgetfulness and things go sideways, but there is no better lesson learned than those from our own mistakes.

I would change it out. The rear main is definitely a "while your in there you might as well do it" kind of thing. But rear mains don't tend to leak that bad and if you have a gravel driveway like I do you'll never see the leak spots!

The Redline website lists their D4 ATF as the appropriate fluid for a Borg Warner 1356 t-case. Ford specs Mercon LV as the correct fluid for a 1356 t-case. The viscosity numbers for Redline D6 are closer to Mercon LV where D6 is a bit thicker. Now I don't know how much thicker the fluid...

Yeah the shower head thing is ridiculous. But it's nice knowing people in other states who can help ya' smuggle in a decent shower head. Blankety-blankin' unbelievable!! And yes I did recently find Max-Life on the shelf at a local O'reilly so I have no idea why it was listed as not available...

I'm not surprised you can order it from certain places--most likely it's some stupid labeling issue. As an aside I see you have a 2001 Tundra and hopefully it is treating you better than the one I owned. I had a 2003 that let so much water into the cab from so many different places I didn't...

I'm still trying to decide on an ATF to replace whatever is in my E4OD at the moment and I keep coming across Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic with many good experiences reported and it seems to consistently cost less than other synthetic ATF. I am not trying to cheap out on ATF but neither am...